tr6jci
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Posts posted by tr6jci
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I am interested in your post as I have thought for some time that an M50 2.5 unit would be great in a TR6, but I have not come across any specific photos and DIY procedures. I have an M50 2.5 192 BHP in my old 525 Touring, and it is a superb engine. To think of the work that goes into getting that power out of the old TR6 unit, and there seems to be questions about the life span of highly tuned Triumph 2.5 units. Plus my BMW will do over 30 mpg on a run, a TR6 weighs a lot less, so fuel economy should certainly be better than the typical TR6's 23mpg. I'm currently thinking of buying another TR6 as I sold mine a couple of years ago and have missed the car a great deal.........
All I have read is that dropping in a BMW 6 engine is straight forward, you don't need to modify the steering linkages or the positioning of the rack. Apparently the gearbox lines up well too. Good luck, I'd be interested to follow how your project progresses.
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It has to be said Guy, you are taking CI TR enthusiasm and expertise to new levels.
When you run out of jobs to do, maybe the CI Group should buy a project car......?
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A lot of people have written a lot about spark plugs in the past.
I recently switched from bp6es to bp5es and the performance has been very good indeed.
My bp6es's tended to foul a bit in town traffic.
As said above, bp6es is a good place to start.
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Thanks for your input. I don't really want to use a file on the shaft or the pulley as the pulley fits fine on the old alternator, and I don't want to risk affecting the rotation by filing the new shaft. I did try putting the pulley on the other way around and it wouldn't go on at all. I guess this means the pulley is tapered.
I might get the money back on the new alternator and buy an overhaul kit........
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Thanks. I removed the woodruff key, cleaned out some crud (surprising given that it is new), but the pulley still won't slide onto the shaft beyond half way, as if the shaft is tapered (even without the woodruff key fitted).
I can only think it is a slight defect with the shaft. Surely these things are not machine pushed-on ??!!
Looks like a trip back to the motor factors as I don't fancy filing the shaft!
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I have bought a new alternator from my local motor factors as the old one, which had only covered about 1000miles, constantly flipped from a state of charge to no charge. Previous advice from the forum suggested the unit was at fault.
However, the pulley for the fan belt from the old alternator does not fit the new one. It only goes half way on! It is as if the diameter of the shaft on the new alternator increases fractionally towards the body of the alternator, so that the pulley will not push right up.
The old alternator is a "Wood Autos" recon unit which was supplied by a garage in Cornwall.
The new unit it a 45A, TR6 spec, Lucas body alternator, I presume reconditioned by Prestolite Electric. (it is labelled Prestolite Electric).
Am I missing something obvious? Is it simply that I need a new pulley? Should I put the old one on and hit it with a mallet ? (er maybe not!)
Thanks.
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Common thinking is that GL4 gear oil required for the gearbox and differential, EP80W90. Apparently GL5 spec oil contains an additive which attacks yellow metal, ie. some of the gearbox components, and should not be used. I have heard that 20W50 was originally used in the gearbox and overdrive and that this can still be used, although it seems that GL4 EP80W90 oil would be a better performing oil for a gearbox.
Engine oil specs for motor oil would typrically be 20W50 API SE/CC
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I have a standard CP 150BHP car and have recently fitted the NGK BP 5 ES plugs. It runs very well on these, better than on the 6ES's.
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Very interesting chaps, thanks... Its an A type O/D. I just hope the bits floating about haven't ruined the cogs etc. Cheers.
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Interesting comments - thanks. I hadn't thought of doing the gearbox myself, but now you mention it.....
Have you done it? Has anyone else done it? I guess specialist tools may be needed?? Cheers.
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What ever has happened to mine affects 1st and reverse in terms of noise. A mate told me a similar story to one thread above, that the layshaft bearing has probably failed leaving bits everywhere. No I won't be driving it....
What does a typical TR6 gearbox overhaul cost?
Many thanks.
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Thanks - it sounds like bad news!....
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Thanks for your comments. I am interested that you state the light circuit is needed to initiate charge.... (why??)
Sometimes before cranking up the red light comes on strong, sometimes weak, sometimes not at all.
When driving it the other night with the lights on, the ammeter showed - , then the red alternator come on whilst driving. Then it went out. Then back on, then back off..... (hasn't done this before....)
My local motor factors told me it was probably a faulty regulator inside the alternator....
I think I will rewire the thing to see if that does anything before I buy a new one.......
I'm sure I read an interesting article somewhere about converting scrap Jap car alternators (small, light) to fit classic cars.
Does this mean anything to anyone??
Cheers.
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Thanks for your comments, but the O/D does still work..... I think the problem is the gearbox itself.
I can remove the gearbox and ship it to a good workshop, doesn't really matter where, as long as they're good.
Yes, into O/D at 3000 rpm maybe not a good idea. Cheers.
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Took the TR6 for a good blast this weekend, alternator working on and off (if you've read my other post).
Hard throttle in second and then into overdrive, went like a bomb. The gearbox has wined in first for some time, somebody told me it was a worn lay shaft at 80,000 miles. Well, when I came to a stop and then set off again, there was a sloshing sound with a randem sound like a bag of marbles being rattled.
Today I drove the car with the same experience. Then the overdrive started working on and off, strangley. It still goes OK though, just weird sounds in first and sometimes second gear. I think this = knackered gearbox. I topped up the gearbox with oil but it was OK. The oil which overflowed was green in colour, weird as I'd put Comma GL4 80/90 in which is yellow. Green would indicate copper corrosion.
Please can anyone advise? Who does gearbox rebuilds at reasonable money? I guess the gearbox is on its way out........
Thanks.
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Interesting comments thanks, its a weird problem. I think I'll change the alternator and see what it gives. Doesn't appear to be the wiring. Cheers.
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Dear all, please can you help?
I have an intermittant alternator problem which occured on the drive home from LMC and which I cannot get rid of!
Some times the alternator charges and sometimes it doesn't, and this is seen from the ammeter.
When it is not charging there is no charge voltage on the back of the terminals with the engine running (ie. it shows a declining battery voltage)
I have checked the resistance of the main + lead at the alternator terminal to the battery + and this is fine.
It has done about 2000 miles if that on this alternator, which was a new unit (standard type).
In this indicative of a shot alternator ? Can it be fixed DIY?
Thanks for any ideas.....
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I recently removed my NGK 6ES's and found that 3&4 were a good colour, 5&6 were running rich, and 1&2 running weak. This was after a while idling.
I have put 6 x NGK 5ES's in and it had never run better.
Moss states the 5ES plug is better suited to unleaded fuel, whether they mean 95 or 97/8 Ron I've no idea.
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Hi there Oystein
Very interesting indeed. I think I'm going to visit a few scrappers for parts.
I take it that you have not re-mapped the original ECU ?
Cheers
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I'm very interested by your discussion on the EFI units as you may have noted from the other thread I started relating to fuel economy.
Do you have any advice or guidance for installing the Bosch L Jetronic system on the TR6, ie. parts needed, advice etc, please.
My mental list of parts is as follows: (no idea about the value of the bits from a scrapper, might be cheaper to buy a whole car).
Ex-Vauxhall/Opel Senator/Omega 6 cylinder Bosch L Jetronic system to include:
Mass air flow meter
6 Injectors
Fuel Rail
Crank position sensor
Water temperature sensor
O2 exhaust sensor
Throttle switch sensor
Knock sensors
DIY ECU
Fuel Hose
Is there anything I've forgotten?
Which ECU do you recommend?
What about distributors?
(On the subject of the misfire - I agree from my experience from other cars that air ingress is a likely cause of the problems).
I'd really appreciate your comments. Cheers.
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Sure, its useful to have other cars for daily use, what ever they may be, and no doubt this is the case for many of us. And yes, just a few weekends a year TR6 use doesn't really count that much in overall consumption terms. Whilst petrol is becoming expensive is one point, it is partly because it is set to become a scarcer energy resource, which is point two, hence the need to try and conserve it by reasonable measures. I guess that's my point. I'm considering a DIY EFI unit as a result.
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Fuel economy versus classic car passion is an emotive subject it would appear!
BMW M5's have a switch to programme the ECU between sport and economy settings. I don't know if any of the DIY ECU hardware and software can take a switch to change between an economy and sport setting. This would be ideal, because whatever various other members have to say about not trying to save fuel, surely everyone agrees that getting optimal economy on a run (ie. fast roads or motorways) is a good idea?
Even those who like to "head for the horizon pedal to the metal" might stand half a chance of making it there before they run out of petrol!
I don't think there is a valid arguement not to try and improve fuel economy in certain conditions, i.e. on a long run.
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Well, what can I say? Thanks for all your comments. Some TR6 fans don't seem to be interested in fuel economy too much, but with over 1000 views and 40 blogs or so, my initial points have possibly meant something to most. I am a bit lost with John L's comments about an oxygen sensor and the MU - I presume a different MU to the original mechanical lucas? Regarding DIY kits, I read somewhere that Vauxhall/Opel Senator/Omega 2.5 EFI units could be adapted to suit the TR6. I think we all have a responsibility to be approaching 40 UK MPG on a run some how !!??
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With petrol prices soaring and not much good news about the economy, it seems that the classic car world may be under threat.
Let's face it, 20 mpg ish is set to become a thing of the past for regular motoring unless you're crazy.
Some have put EFI's on their TR6's and claim 28-35 mpg is possible.
They don't weigh much really, surely 40 mpg ought to be possible somehow.
Does anyone have any ideas? Maybe with a "tame" cam shaft, electric fan, water pump, and careful efi fuel mapping, 40mpg might be attainable.....?
Or is this totally unrealistic?
Gearbox Oil
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I had a gearbox rebuilt by Overdrive Repair at Sheffield, they did a great job, and told me just to use a quality 20w50, so I put in Comma Classic 20w50, and found it worked really well.