Andy Clarke
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Posts posted by Andy Clarke
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I fitted some "poly bush" diff mountings sourced from a well known London based shop and the noise from the diff area was almost unbearable. Luckily I live quite close to Chris Witor, so before I scrapped the diff, I popped round for a chat and discovered that there are several different types of poly bush, with varying degrees of hardness. I ended up buying a set of the softest ones available from him and, hey presto, total silence (from that area at least)
Andy.
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Alan,
On a TR250 with J type it's fairly straightforward. I removed the handbrake lever, the rear drive flange and jacked up the gearbox as far as it would sensibly go. Then, with a slight rotation, off it came.
It was a little more tricky putting it back on, requiring a bit more rotation to line up the splines.
Good luck.
Andy.
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Hi,
I just weighed a spare one on my old post office scales. The shaft and hub is about 17lbs and the female, inner sliding part with the inner uj is 4 1/2lbs. Sorry, the scales don't do Eurogrammes.
Andy
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Chris,
I am not likely to get the chance to even look at the TR for a while, so no thread from me I'm afraid.
I'm watching Matty B's progress with interest though.
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Finally. As it arrived from the States, original paint.http://rs1078.pbsrc.com/albums/w484/Andyclarke1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_9546_zpsuxxc7fxm.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip
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+1 for Arizona, if I could actually attach a photo, without including the holiday snaps.
Andy.
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Alan,
The aluminium grill was originally given a bright anodised finish, mild paint stripper won't do any damage to that, but anything with acid in may tarnish it.
If, underneath the yellow paint you find the anodised finish is not as good as you would like, you could give yourself very sore fingers and thumbs like I did, by using wet and dry followed by metal polish. I removed the anodised coat and achieved a very good finish by polishing the alloy. Two years on, I have not had to re polish it.
Andy
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Loctite gets my vote too. I have used the grey 5699 stuff for quite a few jobs, both ancient and modern and, as Ashley says, it is quite easy to remove and clean components that have been sealed with it.
However, the 5699 is labelled as being best for flanges with permanent water / glycol contact. The black version, the number of which escapes me, is supposed to be the best one for permanent oil contact. Having said that, my French Diesel thing has done nearly 90,000 miles with the sump perfectly sealed with Loctite 5699.
Not sure what the gold version is for,
I wouldn't normally go within 10 miles of Halfords, but this is one of the few things I will grit my teeth to enter and buy. They stock both types and are, surprisingly, cheaper that Amazon.
Andy.
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I've had a few interesting days pondering the options, but I think Remembrance Sunday provided the clarity I needed. I had the honour of laying the wreath during our village service and, as I stood there, two thoughts crossed my mind.
1. Somebody must have shrunk my uniform. I don't ever remember it being this tight in the 28 years I have owned it.
2. Life is short. A very good friend of mine was shot down in Iraq a few years back and will never get the chance to help the three kids he left behind.
NIce as the 250 is, it's only a car and I can always build another. In fact, seeing VUX, I quite fancy the idea of spending a few years getting JHM 926K into a similar condition.
So, in short, if the right person comes along I will be only too glad to give my daughter a hand up onto the property ladder. Of course, this leaves me with the problem of what to do to get rid of the other three kids.
Andy
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Thanks for the kind words Rob, and yes, I clearly remember saying that I would never do another. But the red 6 is looking quite sad and I am going to need something else to do when I finally get shot of the kids. Having said that, I also clearly remember telling the "minister of the interior" that we were going to build a house when I retired from the current job. Me and my big mouth.
The fat lady is not singing yet, the thought of a blast to the Classic Le Mans is sorely tempting and, as yet, there is no pressure from the boss. But you are right Neil, I derived enormous pleasure from rebuilding it and have enjoyed every mile driven, but the family must come first.
Andy
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A short while ago, I walked out of a local supermarket to find a "retired" gent giving my 250 a good looking over. Expecting the usual conversation about owning one of these many years ago, I was slightly taken aback by his opening line of "do you want to sell it" To cut a long story slightly shorter, he owns a 4A and has always wanted a 5 or 250.
Having never considered selling a car that I had always wanted and had spent 9 years building, I laughed when he said that, if I was willing to give him half an hour to get home, he would return with a very large pile of banknotes. There was nothing comical about the offer, it was just the huge amount he was offering that caught me off guard.
I drove home via the usual circuitous route, still smiling and utterly confident that my wife would agree that the 250 was here to stay.
This was my REALITY CHECK. She casually pointed out the following;
a. I have to plan for compulsory retirement from the Military in 2 years time.
b. My retirement plan involves encouraging 4 young adults to leave the nest.
c. The amount he had offered constituted a healthy deposit for a first house that our daughter desperately needs.
d. I have a 71 TR6 quietly rusting away in the back yard.
I now know who my allies are. But the reason for this post, apart from the obvious support required in hanging on to something recently reclassified as a toy, is the age old question - What's it worth. I have already had a reminder that it's only worth what someone is willing to pay, but I am not after ripping anyone off.
Confessional closed.
Andy
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I thought mine would only ever see dry roads. No chance, every spare moment I am out and about thrashing around the lanes of Somerset.
I would recommend a set of wheelarch liners though. I got mine from Honeybourne mouldings and they fitted with very little fettling.
Andy
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Keith,
I bought mine from Chris Witor (mainly because he lives about 9 miles away). Good quality, but the two big ones with the circlip grooves are not cheap from any of the usual suppliers.
Andy
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I had a similar problem last year. Fine one minute, then very difficult first and no second the next. It turned out to be the square section circlip at the front end of the mainshaft had fractured, allowing the cogs to float around on the shaft.
Andy.
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I can get heavy items shipped up to Bardufoss, but the containers won,t arrive there until the end of November. Also, that may be a bit too far North, but let me know if I can help deliver stuff for the winter rebuild.
Andy.
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I bought some split type poly trailing arm bushes from a well known supplier which, when fitted and tightened correctly, allowed the trailing arms to slide sideways by about 6mm. The metal inner tubes were the right length, but the bushes themselves were too thin. Luckily spotted on assembly.
Worth a look if you have black poly bushes fitted.
Andy
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Mark,
The TR6 gear inside was fine, the pinion I was sent was a 17 tooth one and I am pretty sure it was yellow. Ordered 24/9/12 on invoice number 11057. Be advised that the saloon pinion is also 17 tooth (NKC 51), but the shaft is slightly shorter and the square hole is smaller. The part he supplied is not listed on the website, but he knew what I needed.
Andy
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Mark,
I can't reply to, or even open the message you sent. The PM system seems to have been infected with some nice malware. I'm not ignoring you, honest.
Andy
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Mark,
I also bought the correct gear and pinion for my J type, only to find that "correct" was only suitable for the 3.45 diff. Mine is 3.7, so the speedo was way out. If this is your problem, Overdrive Repair Services can supply a suitable pinion (yellow I think) The gear wheel you have fitted to the output shaft will be fine. My speedo is now spot on.
With respect to the harsh engagement, I suspect that somebody with more knowledge than me may suggest changing the pressure relief valve to the TR spec.
Andy
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Neil,
Stuart has posted some superb photographs on this subject, try searching the forum. If you can't find the thread, don't panic, I am sure Stuart will be along shortly.
I found that a PU type sealant/adhesive such as Sikaflex, or the cheaper Toolstation PU40 was pretty good for most of the "heavy duty" seam sealing. I cut the nozzle to make a large hole, then warmed it and squeezed it flat, to produce a nice finish with a flat bead about 15-20mm wide. (apologies for the use of euromeasure)
Andy
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Andy,
The head is a mildly cleaned up and unleaded 219016 and the exhaust manifold is standard cast UK TR6.
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Andy,
The cam fitted to my 250 is the CW30210T (actually produced by Kent Cams) and the needles are BFZ with new, non waxstat jets. Chris was also quite specific about using the original 2500S airbox (which needed a little fettling) to avoid turbulent airflow.
If you are passing Glastonbury, you (or anybody else with an interest) are welcome to give it a thrashing.
Nick, apologies for diverting the thread.
Andy
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Nick,
If mine was an original TR5, I wouldn't dream of removing the PI setup. But my 250, fitted with rebuilt SUs and a Chris witor cam, along with his recommended needles and airbox setup pulls like a train and returned 30.6 mpg on a tank full, to tank refilled test over a 320 mile run last month. It drinks more on short journeys, but that may be down to my heavy right foot and the fact that I love the exhaust note.
Andy Clarke.
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David,
The seats are from Steve F's CR TR6. I had them recovered in leather by a local car trimmer (LA & RW Piper)
850 miles and counting. got a bit confused driving the Eurobox today, three times I swithced on the wipers thinking I was going for the overdrive.
Andy
Cam choice for triumph tr6. Confused :(
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Have a look at Chris Witor's website. His CW3003 cam may be a good option, but if you need advice, he is a mine of information (if you call him in the morning, before he has to deal with his mail order rush).
Andy