tr6driver
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Posts posted by tr6driver
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Hi Vegard.
First of all I would do a compression test of the cylinders.
What kind of oil do you use on your engine?
20/50 ?
I have heard about oil additives for problems like stuck piston rings,but I have no experience.
I have used a supercharger on my TR 6,but never had any problem like this.
On the Moss Kit I guess there is a vacuum controlled valve to let the air circulate when the engine is running on idle
If this is not functioning right the supercharger can pump up very high pressure.
lykke til
Oystein
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Hi
I am going to change the camshaft in my TR6.
Have any of you bought TR parts from this company ?
http://www.britishclassiccarspares.com/acatalog/Online_Parts_List_TR6_ENGINE_PARTS_47.html#a410
Their prices are lower than the other Triumph parts vendors.
On their pricelist they want 40 pounds for a reprofiled camshaft,for a Piper 270 camshaft ,they take 80 pounds.
Is this a good buy , or should I buy one from Rimmer and pay 150 pounds ?
Just want your opinion, about quality.
Oystein
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Hi Willy.
I have a tip regarding your problem.I had the same problem on my TR6 engine.It started with a leaking core plug.Behind the core plugs it was a lot of rusty parts from the engine block molding process.
I used a little magnet (7mm in diameter on a stick) and stuck it in the core holes in the cylinder block,then I was able to get out a lot of the rusty metal parts sitting on the magnet.
Oystein
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Hi.
Is it worth the money installing roller rockers on the TR6 engine ?
I have a standard CR 125 HP engine , will I get any power increase if I install 1,55:1 roller rockers ?
Will the engine run more quiet ?
Does any of you have experience with roller rockers?
Oystein
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Hi.
I am searching a hardtop for my TR6
Have any of you fitted the fibreglass hardtop from Rimmer brothers ?
Oystein
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Hi.
Some years ago I met a guy with a Vitesse.
The six cylinder engine in his car was running exteemly smooth, an oily soft sound , no ratling.
Back to my TR6 engine, I dont think it is anything wrong with it , it doesnt burn oil , have good oil pressure , but it make much more engine noise than the Vitesse engine.
Does this come from worn tappets,worn rocker gear,or worn camshaft or chain ?
I have tried to adjust the rockers , but I am not able to get rid of the ratling noise.
What is your experinence on this issue ?
Or is it only that all the parts in the engine are so worn that this will happen ?
I run the engine on Castrol 20/50 classic oil
Oystein
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Hi.
I forgot to tell that this fuel consuption is on a 4,11 differential .
Oystein
Correct me If I am wrong but that works out in imperial gallon 27.9 to 28MPG.I would have hoped it would be higher than that.
Regards Harry TR5 Nutter
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Hi Peter.
As you understand I am not very familiar with the standard Lucas PI system,I run a Bosch L- Jetronic on my TR6 on a 125 HP CR engine.
I belive that is a low cost EFI upgrade if you have access to a donor car.I got mine from an Opel Senator 2,5 E without oxygen sensor.
The fuel consuption on my TR6 is 0,9 to 1 liter per 10 km at a crusing speed of 80 km/h in OD
Yes, I had a supercharger on my TR6 before , but after my children started to use the car I decided to take it off.
Oystein
Oystein,
I think your suggestion would raise air pressure in the inlet manifold a fraction (ram effect is tiny below 150mph+). But the raised plenum pressure would further lower the diaphragm in the MU adding more fuel, not less.
What is needed is a way to reduce fuel flow at cruise, but definitely not under load as that could damage the engine as Alec pointed out. And it should be simple and cheap. However a UEGO AFR meter would be a valuable if expensive aid.
Any ideas?
PS I seem to remember you are into supercharging too?
Peter
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Hi Peter.
I dont think this will make a big difference,guess it has been tried many times before,but adding more air will make the engine run more lean.
My suggestion is:
First adding an air pressure gauge (on the dashboard)to monitor the air pressure in the air intake plenum on the engine when driving at 50 Miles/hour.
The MK1 suggestion is:Then I would make a modification to make a duct behind the grille to get more air into the plenum,and monitor the airpressure in the plenum at 50 miles per hour.
At that speed you have air pressure in front of the car and led by the duct you will have higher pressure in the plenum than on a standard engine.
The MK2 suggestion is adding an electric fan (electric supercharger) behind the air filter in the hose before the air plenum.
This fan MUST be controlled by a power relay to avoid overheating the on off switch.The electric fan relay can also be controlled by the overdrive switch.
I dont think this will dramaticly change the performance of the engine, but mybe 10% less fuel consumption at highway crusing.
Oystein
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Hi Reinaldo.
I have used the magic clutch kit on my TR6 for some years.
I used the bearing on a standard clutch.The experience was very good.
But there is a very important issue with that solution,when adding a spring that engage the clutch bearing all the time the engine is running you must monitor the thrust washer wear on the crank .
You can expect that the thrust washer wear are twice as big as a standard clutch bearing installation , but of course it depends on how much tension you add on the extra clutch spring.
You will notice that the SACHS / LUK installation is much lighter even without the extra clutch spring added.
regards
Oystein
Hello,
A few months ago I decided to do something with the clutch of my 1966 TR4A.
In general it was in good condition but it became too heavy.
Was in the car for the last 11 years but especially after I had removed the engine and gearbox 3 years ago it became even heavier. By that time I was doing a frame off restoration and I cannot find any reason why the clutch got even worse.
A few weeks ago I bought in US the Magic clutch kit from TRF (Roadster Factory). It includes a SACHS pressure plate, a LUK plate and the GUNST throw-out bearing. Also includes some more hardware (a spring, pins etc). It also includes good installation instructions.
The heavy clutch was a BORG BECK plate & pressure plate with a RHP throw-out bearing.
Any tip or special care to take when assembling it? Should I expect a good result?
It will take a few weeks to start assembling it since I noticed that the engine mountings were showing age signs. I bought new ones from Revington UK.
Thanks,
Reinaldo
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Hi.
I got the same problem on my TR6 when changing from a standard exhaust system to a sports type.
It seem that it is turbulence behind the car making a lower air pressure that is sucking exhaust from the exhaust pipes when driving.
On my TR6 the problem is present when the hood is on,the cure I use is to use the fan to get higher air pressure inside the car when driving,but it should not be like this,
On the standard exhaust you have the exhaust pipes on the side of the car out in the air stream.
I have considered to change for a sport exhaust type with a "standard" look at the rear .
I think it is a reason why Karman made the shape of the exhaust pipes like he did.
Oystein
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I have all the mods that Bob has, and a Kent TH5 cam, which gives superb overtaking power which I feel is needed. A standard 150 car which I have driven seems weedy in comparison. I have a spare 150 cam if anybody wants it. David J.
Hi David
I am interested in the 150 cam
Please send me a PM
Oystein
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Hi.
I have a TR6 with a standard 125 HP CR engine running on a Bosch L-Jetronic EFI
What is the best camshaft upgrade on this engine for normal road use ?
Oystein
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Hi Bryan.
I have tested 3,45 , 3,71 and 4,1 ratio differentials on my TR6.
For the moment I am using the 4,1 differential.My car had a 3,71 as standard (US spec)and the original gearbox was a non OD
My 3,45 and 4,1 diff comes
from Triumph 2000 and 2500 saloon cars.If you dont have an OD gearbox I would go for a 3,71 ratio.The 3,45 will give you lower highway RPM ,but you will feel a noticeable difference in
acceleration by going from 4,1 to 3,45 ratio,but if you prefer to cruise on highways the 3,45 is a good choice.But how often do you drive faster than 60 miles per hour ?
For me a 4,1 ratio and OD gearbox is a perfect match.
If you want to go that route you can mount an OD gearbox from a 2500 saloon car .
In that case you also have to change the clutch plate for a 2500 saloon type .
Oystein
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Hi Austin , this sounds great.
Is your TR6 US specification ?
I changed to a Fidanza aluminium flywheel on my custom supercharged TR6.My engine is a CR engine with a standard camshaft,and a 7,5 cr compression cylinder head.
I regret that I changed the cylinder head from a 9,5 cr to 7,5 cr , but I was advised to do it.
Some months later I changed the differential from an US spec 3,71 to a UK 3,45 ratio,that nearly killed the gain of a lighter flywheel.
Regarding adapting the M62 , 3 rd. gen supercharger to the kit you have,is it possible to mount an aluminium plate between the mounting kit you have and adapt it to another generation M62 ?
When I was planning my supercharger installation I first bought a M62 on E-bay that came from a 3800 Bonneville.I guess that supercharger could be adapted to your kit with a litle modification.
That is one of the most common M62 superchargers on E-bay.
Question:Stage 1 supercharged engine,is it only the camshaft that are changed?And use the 7,5 cr cylinder head ?
Driving a supercharged TR6 is like driving a powerful supercharged diesel engine,very good low RPM torque,and very fast acceleration.
Oystein
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Hi Austin.
Have you found a suitable M62 supercharger for your kit ?
Take a look at this :
http://www.thefind.com/search?query=eaton+supercharger+m62#page=1
Oystein
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Hi.
What kind of wheels is it on this TR6 ?
Are they 15 og 16 inch ?
Take a look at this:
http://www.movit.de/htm/tr6.html
Oystein
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Hi.
I have a supercharged CR 125 HP engine on my TR6.
The ignition advance is about 7 - 10 degrees advance on ideling.
Over 1500 RPM the advance is 14-17 degrees.
It is very important to avoid detonation.
The engine perform best on high octane petrol.
Here in Norway they sell 98 octane.
Oystein
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Hi.
I have also tried 3,45 , 3,71 and 4,1 diff on my TR6.
I would recomend the 3,71
Oystein
TR6 , EFI Supercharged
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Hi. I have a 1974 ex-California TR6, running carbs and 7 1/2 to 1 compression ratio. A friend has gotten a Sal Vespertino supercharger kit which uses a SU HD* carburettor, but is still searching for the blower. Has anyone out there used this kit, and can you help me sort out pulley sizes, etc, please?
Many thanks,
Austin Branson
Hi Austin.
Understand you also are planning to install Sals kit on your TR6 ?
On my supercharger the diameter of the pully is about 70 mm
About three years ago I started a project of fitting a supercharger to my 1976 model TR6.I considered Sals kit, but after a while I decided to go for a custom installation.
At that time I talked to a guy that had Sals kit on his TR6.He wanted to convert the carburetor to Throttle body injection because he had big broblems with adjusting the carburetor for
correct mixture.
That was one of the reasons why I choosed to go for an injection solution,and mount the supercharger on the left side of the engine.
I bought a supercharger on E-bay from a Mercedes 230 and made a custom bracket and air in out pipes.When having the supercharger on the left side it is colder,no exhaust heat, and you can add an
intercooler between the supercharger and input manifoil.
If I had a TR6 like yours with ZS carburetors,the first thing I would have done is to convert the carburetors to throttle body injection with the kit from Patton Machine,or mount a spacer between the carburetors and manifoil with injectors.And use the carburetors as throttebodies.Then use the standard air fiter box without the air filters , connect the filterbox to an air pipe,and run the air in front of the engine,and mount a supercharger on the left side like I have done on my installation.
Then you buy a ready built Megasquirt to control the Throttle body injection and ignition . By doing this you will have more control over the mixture than with changing needles and adjusting of the carburetors.
Also you will have less fuel consuption .
On my engine there is a PI manifoil converted to EFI,but it would be no difference if it was two ZS converted to throttle body injection , the supercharger installation would have been the same.
If this is interesting feel free to ask.
Oystein
Take a look at this video of my TR6.
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Anders.
Take a look in your message box.
Hilsen
Oystein Nordstronen
Bergen
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I was in two minds as to whether I should undertake my gearbox removal myself or If I should bite the bullet and get a specialist to do it for me.
I've just had an email telling me it will take them 5.8 hours at £74.50 per hour (+vat = £500!) just to do the work and not including any parts. I think this has pretty well made my mind up for me.
I'm not too worried about doing the work itself, it's just that my double garage is half taken up with another project, meaning I'll have to do it outside on the drive. Does anybody know of another triumph specialist in this area (Essex/London) whose prices are keener?
Thanks
Simon
Hi
I thought that Norway is an expensive country,but that hour rate is very high , is VAT included ?
Oystein
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Hi.
Visited a friend who have an E-type with a V 12 engine.
He talked about a cleaning method of the cylinder head valves on the engine by running it at 4000 RPM and spray a small amount of water into the air intake while the engine is running.
Is this a common way of doing this?
For me this sounded to be a way of damaging the engine .
Can i have your comments on this ?
Oystein
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Hi all.
How much would a new gear box cost, supplied and fitted?
Any experience and can a new grear box lead to other associated problems when its replaced?
Hi
I bought a used J-type OD gearbox from a 2500 saloon car fom Triumphland in England , it had 43000 miles from new.
Payed 200 pounds for it,have driven it about 5000 miles in my TR6 with no problems at all.
Also a benefit with the saloon gear boxes, the pedal pressure to engage the clutch is lower than on the standard TR6
gearbox,that will give lower pressure on the crank trust washers.
If you are going to use a saloon gearbox on your TR6 you have to use a saloon clutch plate.
Triumphland is a car breaker company.
Oystein
Engine rebuild, fuel in oil.
in TR6 Forum
Posted
You can change the crank bearings on the engine without taking the engine out of the car.
You take the engine pan off,remove one bearing cap at the time,slide the bearing out.
Oystein