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Everything posted by Horse

  1. My wipers always used to jam except in constant moderate rain. One thing I recommend you should look at, particularly as you have fitted new wiper boxes. This is end float on the wiper shafts. If this is excessive the spiral drive tries to push itself out of engagement with the beveled drive gear and so tends to jam against the side of the wiper box. If you look at the rear of the wiper box, you will see a V shaped cut-out. The point of the V aligns with the center of the bevel gear. A new box will have the correct end float before fitment, but when clamped up on the spiral drive guide tubes this can increase markedly. If you have significant end float (remember the bevel gear is quite narrow) bend in the V until the end float is almost zero. This has to be done in situ, and access is such that it is difficult to get sufficient controlled leverage on the V. I used a right angle screwdriver that worked a treat but any similar tool should do the job. And my wipers no longer play up! Horse
  2. Rob, For what it is worth, I have a 4A fitted with a wide belt, 70 degree thermostat and a TR6 yellow plastic fan. 7lb radiator cap. Setup works a treat. No overheating and the heater warms up quickly. Been fine for 4 years and over 8000 miles. I fitted the 70 degree thermostat because that's what it says in the manual; I bought it at a Beaulieu jumble. The TR6 fan was already fitted when I bought the car. Horse
  3. Ian, Thanks for your interest, but sadly it does. Perhaps I explained myself badly? Although I have not physically traced the wiring, as shown in the circuit diagram I have the overdrive selector switch is fitted between the live from the overdrive relay and the gearbox interlock switches, effectively removing the gearbox interlock switches from the circuit. If this diagram is correct, a short to earth at the switch will activate the overdrive relay and hence the overdrive solenoid. I proved this to myself by intentionally shorting the switch against the indicator switch case and switching the ignition on and off - the relay clicked in every time regardless of gear selection. After insulating the indicator switch case overdrive selection was normal, and has been for the last 500 miles. Perhaps with my car (build date March 65) the metal case of the indicator body provides the path to earth? Regards, Horse
  4. No doubt you have solved your problem by now, but for what it is worth I had the same experience earler this year but resulting from a defect different from those already referred to. In my case, the short was between the connecting pins on the overdrive switch at the head of the column and the metal case of the adjacent indicator switch. These are in very close prximity and any looseness in the nut holding the overdrive switch in position can allow the switch to move such that the connections are permanently shorted. I settled for insulating tape as a precaution in case the switch should come loose again in the future.
  5. Horse

    front discs

    If working on the calipers and checking the hoses doesn't sort out your problem of pulling to one side, check that the loading on each front wheel is roughly the same. If one wheel is significantly more lightly loaded than the other the car will pull to that side under heavy braking. It happened to me after I fitted new spring cushions on the rear to correct the ride height. You can adjust the loading by buying thicker cushions for the affected wheel from Revingtons. Horse
  6. I have a 4A fitted with the same gauge as you have with the 70 degree centre marking. When I bought the car it ran hot according to the gauge. As part of my investigation as to why, I removed the thermostat, which I found to be rated at 85 degrees. A quick check in the w/s manual showed that the correct thermostat is rated at 70 degrees - surprise, surprise! Having obtained a 70 degree thermostat at Beaulieu and fitted it, the needle stays bang in the middle of the gauge. I have no thermostatically controlled fan but a fixed fan from, I believe, a TR6. I have yet to have an overheating indication or problem since I fitted the 70 degree thermostat. Horse
  7. I have a 4A which delevoped a rattle from the front end which sounded for all the world like the clearance on one tappet being too large. Worse when cold and particularly noticeable on the overrun. The (large) consenus view was that it was either piston slap or little end wear, most dianosing the former. However, as it had come on quite quickly the odds were no 1 cylinder little end and so it proved. The good news for the correspondant is that I used it in this condition for the whole of last season without problems so it will probably last without problem until the winter.
  8. I assume the washer bottle is the type that fits into the steel moulding on the inside of the LHS wing? If so, I would be interested if it is still available. Feel free to give me a ring if it is, Geoff Glover 01202 861939
  9. Ian, Many thanks for the prompt. I had assumed that Revington only do performance mods, but I contacted them and they actually sell spacers for both front and rear springs for the TR4A. In fact they do complete suspension packages and are worth consulting before replacing any springs. For info for Forum members, the spacers come as a pair, each 5mm high, so that the advertised net effect is to raise the suspension by 20mm or approximately 0.8 inches. (10mm x 2 mechanical advantage.) Just what I needed. Horse
  10. One other thing you may want to get checked is the play in the trunnion bearings at the bottom of the upright. I have jst had these replaced (very worn - found on MOT) on my 4A and although my steering shake has not been eliminated, it is greatly reduced.
  11. Interesting that this topic should come up again, as I found reference to it when discussed some months ago during my research. The back end on my '65 4A looks too low and, checking the ground clearance, is as much as an inch down. Hence I decided to change the springs last weekend and got a replacement set of standard coil springs from Moss (Pt No GSV 1001). Having managed to fit them, I found the damper arm was hard against the lower bump stop and the ride height over an inch too high (1/2 tank and toolbox and coolant in the boot) - it looked even worse than before. I checked the trailing arm mounting brackets to see if they were fitted the right way round (notch to the top) and they were, so the old springs went back on. Could have tried new lowered springs but these are all uprated and the roads I use do not encourage the use of a stiff suspension. Don't think it is a wheel or tyre size as the front is OK and the wheels are OE steel. Be grateful for advice as to where one can get standard rate 4A springs if such things exist, which when fitted give the correct ride height, or suggestions as to what else can be done to solve the problem - a special spacer perhaps? I understand Moss, Rimmer and TRGB standard springs are all the same. (As far as I know, the GSV1001 springs are actually for the TR6 and compared with those that came off, have at least one more coil and a wire diameter that is 3/32 greater (17/32 as against 7/16)). Interestingly, Moss tell me that my front (short) springs with spacer are from a TR4 and not a 4A (the OE 4A springs don't need the spacer apparently). Horse
  12. Horse

    Petrol smell

    Whilst you have the "cardboard" baffle out to gain access to the fuel tank, have a look at the fuel gauge sender. These also leak from the seal when the seal is getting old and can be the source of fumes, but with this, the tank and the filler, the smell is usually most noticeable in the boot. No other ideas I'm afraid, other than to suggest you go round every bit that has fuel in it or passing through it, and particularly unions, wiping it with a tissue and inspecting the tissue regularly. A tissue will find moisture if there is any even if a joint feels dry.
  13. This topic has been covered many times, and a number of misunderstandings have featured in the correspondance. First, all radiator caps are double acting. They have to be otherwise one would have a vacuum in the cooling system when the engine cools down. If you don't believe me, remove your radiator cap and gently lever up the central portion - you will find it lifts and is spring loaded, so that it allows fluid past when the pressure differential is in its favour. Second. The overspill bottle on the TR4A works as designed (it does on mine anyway). The key is to position the overflow pipe from the radiator filler such that it reaches almost to the bottom of the spill bottle and that there is about 1 inch of coolant in the bottom of the bottle, covering the end of the tube, so that when the engine cools all the coolant that has been displaced into the bottle is sucked back into the radiator.
  14. Horse

    Wiper blades

    Try J&F Car Parts of Doncaster who specialise in wiper blades and arms for classic cars. They do not have a web site but their telephne number is 01427 753024 (J S Fairbank is the POC).
  15. Horse

    Starting problem

    Agree likely to be the ignition citcuit. Two other possibilities in addition to those mentioned. both of which caused me a similar problems in the past (but not with a TR) which are quick and easy to check: Oil working its way up the distributor shaft and contaminating the insulating washer under the points so that there was a resistive short circuit through the washer to earth. Eventually the engine wouldn't run at all. Check that the washer is clean and dry. A nick in the insulation of the LT lead exposing the wire where it entered the distributor casing (that took a whole 4 days to find, including swapping all the bits and rebuilding the distributor before I found it!). Horse
  16. Horse

    Wing Mirrors

    Apropos painting the holes for mouning of mirrors, my local restorer tells me that Finnegan's Primer (Hammerite) is a very good anti-rust primer, and equally importantly, is compatible with cellulose. I have used it add the top coat went on without ant bubbling etc.
  17. Horse

    Wing Mirrors

    GWR, Many thanks for your helpful advice. I have some sympathy with the aethesetic argument, but having recently been obliged to drive nearly 200 miles at a stretch, most of it perforce on dual carriageways, I have decided on offside mirror is essential, and with the hood up (one has to occasionally) a nearside mirror is also desirable. One cannot always use single carriageway roads even if they are more pleasant to drive on. Perhaps to be clear I should have called them door mirrors in my original request! The point about door internals is well made, which is why I asked if anyone could advise me on the factory positioning. I have not yet taken off the door facings but appreciate the potential difficulty. At least I should not have the field of view problem you describe as mine have a single point fitting plus a ball attachment for the mirror assembly. Looks as though I will have to follow your lead and employ my still willing helper with the positioning. Regards, Horse
  18. Horse

    Wing Mirrors

    Gentlemen, I wish to fit wing mirrors to my newly purchased 4A. They are the period single point fitting non bullet type. Be most grateful if anyone could advise me exactly where on the doors (measured from the leading edge and the window rubber trim strip) they were fitted by the factory as optional extras. Horse
  19. Jonlar, Many thanks for your advice. Horse
  20. Mike, I have a 4A with the same problem, which I have traced to the sender seal. Am now waiting to use enough fuel so that I can drain the tank, as the latter has to come out to be able to remover the sender. Horse
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