oily
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Posts posted by oily
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Whey hey woh woh.
Slow down with bad comments about hard tops. The TR6 looks Loads better with the hard top on. I get many more people taking an interest in the car with it on. Driving is a whole different ball game. The stiffness it adds is amazing and this effects the whole performance of the car. Lets be realistic, Would i trade the driving pleasure with the top on against 10 days of sunny roof down driving????????????. Well , OK yeah i would, its daft i know. But it only takes an hour to put the hard top back on. Sorry the hard top as a whole wins. What about a sun roof in the hard top ?????????. Better than a Surrey top which does'nt tie the A and B posts together via the screen frame.
Oily
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I am running a very wild cam. 320 degree overlap with .360 Inlet .359 Exhaust, @1.55 RATIO Roller rocker= Lift 0.558" Inlet 0.556" Exhaust and find that the Valve clearences of 0.016"Inlet / 0.018"Exhaust are fne. I suspect any more than this will rattle like a marble in Dubyas skull.
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My six is fitted with a fair number of the usual extras, halogens, fan, etc. But when the heated windscreen was fitted i put a mega on to measure the current draw. It indicated, if i remember right, 35 amps'ish. So at the same time the alternator was up rated to a 65 amp unit. Neither wiring or gauges have proven to be a problem. Two years running on this now.
Noel
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Hi
To further expand on the non return.
I am running triple Webber's with a 320 Degree overlap cam. The vacuum take off is connected to only one inlet port of the manifold and is sufficient to suck the servo.
If your not familiar with servos, and i am not teaching you to suck eggs (or servos) so no offense intended, The non return valve is located on the front face of the servo and the vacuum hose attaches to it. Remove the hose and gently pry out the hose connection. Its on a rubber bush so should come out Fairly easily. The non return is located inside this plastic housing. Wipe clean and place in mouth. (Sounds familiar). Suck and blow (definitely sounds familiar). It should pass air in one direction only. If not its Knackered. You can buy replacements very cheaply.
The two old designs that failed consisted of the remnants of a plastic cage. I believe The parts ended up in the servo thank God. The type that works well is more like a heart valve. It consists of a small circular rubber disc which activates a seat to give unidirectional flow.
the reason for further modification is back up in case of failure. Modern non return valves follow the later design but tend to be mounted in-line with the hose rather than directly mounted to the servo. It is surprising how small modern non returns actually are in comparison to the tr unit and use small bore nylon hose. However, L reg Vauxhall Cavaliers were fitted with a larger bore valve which is mounted in-line in the hose and has hose tails equal to the bore of the existing TR vacuum hose. Difficult to come by but can be ordered from Vauxhall. Why go to the trouble. Peace of mind having had two failures at speed. With the Vauxhall type i can fit two valves. Should one fail the second will still do the same job.
Noel
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Is the non return valve operating. If not, you may still be producing enough vacuum at the manifold but its not doing anything at the servo because the negative pressure is released. It will also give you the feeling of a very hard pedal and braking pressure to the pads and shoes determined by how big your leg muscles are.
Ive had two fail recently. Potentially disastrous. Have fitted a new one of different design. Seems fine now, but am going to fit two in-line vauxhall valves in parallel for safety. Belt and braces.
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Some confusion going on here.
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Noel,
Thank you very much for your informative reply. I think that helps me set a reasonable expectation from my stock engine. Yours is very impressive. Wow!!
From what I have read, a good dyno will give not only max HP and a curve, but also give out torque figures. You are correct in that HP is not the only way to measure an engine's performance. If you don't mind my asking then, if you are putting out 208 at the wheels, what kind of torque numbers did your dyno shop give you?
Also, doing you numbers you are right at 251HP at the flywheel to achieve the 208 at the wheels. If I read your numbers correctly that goes like this: Flywheel HP - 17% loss = rear wheel HP.
Your numbers would look something like this: 251 - 42.6 = 208 +/-. Does that sound correct?
So based on those calculations:
The original 150HP PI engine would be around 124 HP in stock trim: 150 - 25.50 = 124.50.
USA spec carburetted cars would have been 86 HP in stock trim: 104 - 17.6 = 86.
Does this sound like a fair statement?
Tom,
What kind of torque figures does your engine produce? Your engine bay is most impressive.
thanks!
Sorry to take so long to reply, been in the shed flattening out some new veneer for the interior. why do i do these things??????.
Couple of things first. The pictures you are looking at are probably old. the engine you see is running on standard injection and putting out about 180BHP at the flywheel. this is out now and the new engine in. Very different. Still nice and running on triple 45s.
The engine produces 191 ft/lb torque at peek, Then a burst of BHP for another 5-600 revs. Peaks out of BHP around 6000rpm but torque remains pretty constant to 7000+.
A better way to work BHP flywheel is 208BHP (Wheels)/ 86 (%) x 100 = 242BHP Being that the engine power at the wheels is 86% of the total engine power. My power loss through transmission is estimated at 14%. But transmission is not standard. Given more standard trans the loss will be greater, let say 20%.
so (150BHP x 80)/100 =120BHP at the wheels
But as said before the 150BHP on a standard engine is a little optimistic. More like 135BHP is usual which would be 108BHP at the wheels. I think it would be fair to say that generally standard 150s make 90 to 110BHP at the wheels so 135BHP at the engine isnt far out.
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Hi Alec,
This is exactly what i am saying. The story is that Triumph removed all ancillaries for a dyno run to arrive at 150BHP. Not the real world. Which is why most are 135BHP in good condition.
208BHP at the wheels, Where do i start.?
Block.
Late S type stiff block.
Line bored
Zero decked
2600 cc on +60s
Venola Pistons.
Carrillo conrods
Bored to take oversize cam followers
Billet steel crank with dummy mains
Vandervell bearings
ARP bolts
Block and big end stiffening kit.
320 degree overlap and 1/2" lift
Loads more.
If you really want all the details i will list it all up and PM it to you.
noel
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Hi Hardtop.
BHP figures are generally quoted as flywheel output. But they can be misleading. The flywheel figure is a calculation of the at wheels value with an allowance for transmission losses. It is how you calculate the transmission loss that is the grey area. My 6 produces 208BHP at the wheels. This means that the flywheel figure could be anywhere from 240 to 260 BHP. The lower the transmission loss the lower the flywheel figure. I run uprated gbox, od, diff, hubs and halfshafts. So i would expect the losses to be lower than standard. So the 240s would be a prudent estimate. The rolling road company that set up and power ran my 6 are of good reputation. After the power run they estimated the power loss as 17%. So 20% is not a bad Rule of thumb, but not written in stone. But don't forget that torque is every bit as important and often overlooked. The number you mention are flywheel figures, for what they are worth. The standard engine in good condition may well produce 150BHP on a dyno with all the ancillaries removed, but thats not reality. More like 135BHP on a standard unit. But then who would, (not me), take their engine out, strip the ancillaries, and put it on a dyno.
Noel
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Thanks mate, but two corrections, its oak and TVRs look very sixish
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Thanks Tom,
Your alright in my books, owe you a Bud.
Noel
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The cosy green interior is Great. If you were a woman dressed only in a red swimsuit and a smile, would you want to park your arse on cold leather seat. If it encouraged women dressed like this into my 6 i would recover my seats today and recover in hospital tomorrow when Nicky (the missus) found out.
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Hi
Where did the cream gauges come from?
Are the big gauges the same size as the originals?
Steve
Small gauges are Smiths,easy to come by. The large are reconditioned originals. Faces recoloured and printed.
Noel
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Wondered where my old three piece suit went. Oh God ive just admitted to owning a tatty three piece. The salesman at the Sofacentre is a deadman.
N**l
No i aint putting my name to it.
seriously, how could anybody do this, no fake marble coffee table.
Just posted this and it came up with my interior on the signature. I know i am going to get some stick. I am just going to run and bloody hide.
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Thanks Simon,
Thats the sort of info i need.
Noel
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Got a new set of fiberglass wheelarch liners. Loads of money for what they are. Has anybody fitted these before. Tips and tales needed before i start.
Thanks Noel
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Checkout the '123ignition' thread on the 'TR Register main forum'.
Noel
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Youve already got the wing off. You could chop it all out, hopefully weld and fill so that it looks original, pay for it to be resprayed. Hope it doesnt come back next year. OR buy a good secondhand wing, get it sprayed and forget about it.
I would go for the later.
Noel
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No worries Richard. I will still look futher on sunday for the trim suppliers because i am sure they came from a company called europarts. I think i still have the tab somewhere. Regarding the beaings. Not standard stuff here. These are quaife units and havent done much mileage. But, the problem was present prior to these.
Went to a supplier on Friday to buy a pair of 2 1/2" silencers to build a new twin pipe exhaust system. You know i hate the standard systems you can buy off the self. Low grade stainless and poorly made. The place i go to will build from new exactly what you want and fit it for less than the off shelf units. But having said that i prefer to weld up my own units so just buy the parts. WAFFLING. Whilst i was there i had all four wheels balanced again just to see the results. We balanced the wheels perfectly radially!!!!. There was some degree of throwout 'laterally' as is expected from wire rims. But firstly even steel rims ca do this, and secondly, the problem was there prior to the wires being fitted. Still the balancing made no difference.
This problem has been going on for the best part of two years now and is really wearing away at my placid side. GRRRRRRR.
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Richard.
Try this link for trim.
http://www.dw-tuning.co.uk/shop/detailview.aspx?ID=1069861
Rhodri.
This is definitely worth checking at the same time as the other items. I can see where your coming from on this. I have two points of reference here. Way back when the project was started i had TRE check the chassis. Seemed to be OK. A good time later i had the wheel geometry set up on a laser bed. I am not sure, but if there had been any miss alignment front to back it would probably have shown up then. Generally and with limited equipment how would one establish if the output and input were true to centerline?????. There must be some reference points to measure from. As to parallel i would guess this may be done by simple measurement.
Noel
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Hi Jim
Looked with interest at your comments. The drive shaft is definitely the correct orientation as to are the half shafts. But we could eliminate these anyway as all items have been changed. thanks for the reply.
Richard,
Most motor factors sell the chrome trim. If you have trouble finding it i will go through the file and find the original supplier. Lookout to make sure that the open width is correct and the root of the u contains heat activated adhesive. Use a hair dryer or paint gun on low setting. Don't over heat and do a section at a time.
Bob,
I am going to check out the diff mounts as suggested by Andy Moltu (Good diagnosis doc) and will check out the Greasing at the same time. All of this is going to be done next week. The 2 1/2" stainless exhaust i fabricated for the car works very well, but i am not happy with the appearance. So i have talked to Pete Burgess with respect to altering the design to look right without effecting the performance. This will also be completed next week. With work commitments i doubt that i will be able to do all this and get the 6 to VF until the following week. I will keep you posted.
Thanks for you thoughts
Noel
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Morning chaps,
The overdrive unit is a stag and the engine has been fully balanced. This problem has persisted through two engine, gearbox, and overdrive setups. The former engine was a full rebuild to 180bhp, and the current to 240 bhp with steel crank, harmonic dampener, stiffend block etc . I am pretty confident that the problem is related to the post overdrive area.
Thanks
Noel
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Dashboard ideas..non purist
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hey Guy,
Thought about this very thing some time ago. Decided on an American white oak dash. Then rebate around the center four gauges and (in my case) starter button to a depth of about 1.5mm. Fill the rebate with polished stainless profile. Plotted out the five hole profile and Emailed it to the laser cutters. got the profile back OK, but scaled down in size by about 2mm ????????????. Haven't had time to look at it since.