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Eyetee

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Posts posted by Eyetee

  1. you could try Martin 07930901774 mobil mechanic

    he wont thank me for giving out his number but if you suggest generous contribution with the reddies..... he lives within a stones throw of Hockley.

    whats the panic have you a boat to catch?

  2. I think its just a case of breaking down the rear corner and replace the stud, might be a good idea to do the set. Take care when removing the hub from the rear ali trailing arm, the studs are threaded UNF and have a habit of unwinding damaging the the alloy casting requiring a heli-coil.

  3. jellison

    No the tr6 is a while off yet and wouldnt qualify for this race.

    Its the new K series race, and the cars are either a 912 or Mgb, the formner takes a 15" wheel and the later a 14" wheel. It turns out I can only run "L" sections or the tires will rub.

  4. set of 4 or 5 "L" or "M" section Dunlop CR65 tyres.

     

    They can be either 14" or 15"

     

    So far I have found them for £200 each

     

    Would consider a part worn set.

     

    Any suggestions or offers welcome, they are required for an hour race at Spa, which has been an ambition since supporting the 6 hours a few years ago.

  5. I didnt see Georges post so might be repeating stuff already said/written.

     

    Just bought a tr3a with wire wheels 165 tyres, the spare is a wire wheel and is deflated so to fit in the space provided by the factory, previous owner carried a pump that could be powered from the battery terminals and a spare tube for repairs. A friend saw this set up and suggested the common practise was to cut a hole in the boot floor so the spare could be dropped into the space provided by the factory, this also allows the opportunity to fix the rear lower panel that has a tendancy to fall off if knocked.

     

    hope this helps

  6. with a bit of luck nothing.

    As a rule I was told to always connect the negative terminal last and disconnect the negative terminal first, I understand that the negative terminal is where the action is.

    The smoke could have been a short caused by the clamp earthing out the alternator, best reconnect, put voltmeter over the battery (should be around 12.5 volts), then run the engine and put a voltmeter over the battery again (should be around 13.5 volts). Assuming the loom is correctly tied down, this will prove battery is charging.

     

    A car with an alternator has a negative earth, dynamo is positive earth, this mightnt be hard and fast but its my rule of thumb. Most of the time the terminals and plugs are different sizes.

  7. had similar ridges in the past after grinding their valves and that their engine is still running sweetly years later!

     

     

    Sorry no but I unless the performance is critical I should expect that the car will run sweet as a nut. Not to big a deal to wip the head of at a later date, after all. More important is that the valve is a good seal.

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