Paul Down
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Posts posted by Paul Down
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Early ones as fitted to MG Midget etc. just use a voltmeter to register deflection.
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Graham, what was the "recent scandal involving braided fuel lines" I missed that!
They have always been more difficult to detect a leak as the internal rubber can perish unseen, was there something else?
Paul
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Roger my understanding of the early ones as follows:
A pulse taken from the contact points triggers a mono-stable multivibrator . The DC value of the mono stable pulses causes a normal DC voltmeter to deflect.
As the pulse from the points is relatively fast and short you need something to lengthen the pulse and give a reasonable DC level thus the Mono-stable. Usually not much to go wrong and only a handful of components.
Modern electronic tachos will be far more sophisticated.
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Renewed my TR insurance yesterday with Hagerty and surpise surprise, the fitting of LED rear lights caused no adverse comments. Indeed quite the opposite, as the cars visibility for other drivers has improved markedly the chance of a rear end shunt is much reduced and so is the insurers risk.
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I agree with Bob et al, I found Ezeebleed a pain and far too fiddly
I use a fluid extraction device, no need for a compressor as a few pumps of the handle and it creates its own vacuum within the 5 litre plastic cylinder. It has been invaluable and draws fluid through the bleed nipples rather than pumping from the master cylinder.
I have always bled numerous cars first time with it even a series Land Rover that are reputed to be difficult. One of the best tools I own! And not expensive about £40 I seem to recall from EuroCarparts. Not sure if they still sell them.
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Yes, think it is called Brahma belting or similar. Used extensively as a drive belt for machine tools where pulleys etc. would need removing if a conventional closed loop belt was used as a replacement
Also seen on Vintage and PVT cars.
I have some but there are many sizes, measure yours and I will check to see if mine fits your pulleys.
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The main problem here appears to be that the legislation lags the technology by several years.
The road vehicle lighting regulations of 1989 would seem to suggest that type approval for our cars is not necessary for filament bulbs. It does not however mention the fitting of other types of bulbs as they simply did not exist then. So while one can presumably fit any type of filament bulb this does not imply that LED bulbs are permitted.
HID and LED headlights are much more straightforward as without the purpose designed housing and reflector the beam characteristics will differ quite markedly from that specified in other legislation relating to vehicle lighting. They are clearly not legal unless complete lamp units are fitted and at the right height, with self levelling. wash/wipe ect. as dazzling other drivers and the potential for causing a potential hazard are strong possibilities.
Side lights and stop lights would appear to be a very grey area. Unless their brightness is such as to dazzle other vehicle drivers what are the real problems apart from a vague possibility of infringing legislation.
To enhance the brightness of older vehicle side lights and brake lights not only benefits the driver but also other road users as our cars can now be clearly seen in all weathers and times of day. It is interesting that the fitting of LED lights to Vintage and PVT vehicles (i.e. pre 1940) has been sanctioned by the VSCC for use in road rallies etc. They do not see it as a problem and the club has numerous members who are also lawyers.
As has been said many times in this thread, LED rear lights bring the lighting of our cars up to a level comparable to moderns and legal or not I will continue to use them feeling far safer and more relaxed than before when driving in traffic.
Our cars do not benefit from any of the current crash protection that all moderns now are mandated to have, but IMHO it is a small but sensible step to take when driving on our congested roads. I will let my insurance company know at renewal time but do not anticipate any problems. LED rear lights could well save them some expensive claims!
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Hi,
If you fit a fuel cut off system for security reasons , then ,I think, you're better of to fit a manual valve. All these electric aftermarket items are going to cause problems at one point in time, probably sometime at night, in the rain or snow and a long way from home!
I used a 316SS needle valve. Fitted on the fuel line, close to the tank, and easy accessible.
Yves
If you fit an appropriate electrical cut off valve it also has a manual facility for electrical failure. Having said that my cut off valve has been operative for 7 years without any problems. They are originally intended for LPG installations in vehicles so have to be reliable.
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Bob is correct, the fuel bowl will remain substantially full.
Check that the manual lever is not in the flow position.
It will take a minute or so to exhaust the fuel, depending on how fast you are going.
The big advantage of the fuel shut off valve:
If a low life steals your car and is unaware of the valve they will be happily driving along after starting it thinking that they have got away and then suddenly the engine suddenly cuts out, leaving them stranded.
If you have also fitted a cheap tracker then not only will it tell that you someone has started your car but also where it is heading and /or stopped.
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Neil,
I apologise for my comments re your post.
After reading WS's statement it would appear that you are indeed correct
Although I frequently do not grasp the full meaning of some of your cryptic posts (thus my reference to a decoder) I do however appreciate that you are very experienced and have a wide knowledge of TRs. and have helped many others on here with all kinds of technical problems.
I do hope you will continue to do so!
Sorry if I upset you.
Paul
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Roger,
The table from your FBHVC pages you referenced:
Below is a brief listing of the cut off dates after which all lamps must have approval marks and that currently means using approved filament bulbs carrying that approval.
Front side lamps
1st January 1972
Rear side lamps
1st January 1974
Brake lamps
1st February 1974
Direction indicators
1st April 1986
Headlamps dip/main beam
1st April 1986
Front fog lamps
1st April 1986
Rear fog lamps
no cut-off date so always need approval marks
Reverse lamps
1st April 1986
Number plate lamps
1st April 1986
It would seem that most TRs are OK to fit LED bulbs apart from later TR6's and TR'7s. Except fog lamps.
Maybe main/dip headlamps could be a problem due to the beam characteristics being rather different to incandescent bulbs and their needing a special type of mounting and reflector.
I know that driving for 70 miles up to Scotland last weekend I felt very much safer having fitted Bobs rear light LED conversion than on previous visits.
Not sure what Neil is so adamant about?
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cbxman (have you got a name?)
Yes you are spot on saying that while testing these devices you can easily exhaust the SIM credits.
One company to my knowledge still offers the cheapest SIM cards, top up a minimum of £5 every 90 days. Which is much better than the normal monthly PAYG contracts.
Details:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/classic-car-security.html
Cheers
Paul
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As Geko says, are you sure the HT leads are on the correct plugs, easy to mix them up if not labelled while changing the points etc.
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Mike,
As said above the decision to opt for a side-screen TR2-3A or a later TR4, 4A is a personal one dependant on your preferences and priorities. Having owned 2 x TR2's , 2 x Tr3A's a Tr4 and a 4A I will however add my four pennies worth.
The 4 and 4A are definitely more refined but if you are not a purist, rack and pinion steering can easily be installed in a side-screen car.
I did not like the 4As tendency to squat when accelerating and much preferred the solid rear axle of the TR4. The 4A is no doubt a more comfortable ride but not as much fun as a solid rear axle. The side screen cars do tend to let in rain a little even one that has been properly restored. In my experience the 4 and 4A are more weather resistant. Having said that I hate driving the 3A with the hood up they tend to be a bit cramped inside and have hardly ever used the hood etc.
As said above, trot along to your local TR meet and chat with the owners who I am sure will be only too pleased to take you out for a ride. That will give you far more insight than anything else.
Whatever you choose, owners of side screen and 4/4A TR's are fortunate in having probably the best supply of spares to keep them mobile than most other marques.
When you have decided on the model of TR, have a look at several before parting with your hard earned, and take with you someone who knows TRs, their advice could save you £000's later on. It is far to easy to buy a TR with your heart after an exciting run around the block and regret it later as the bills mount up. Bodywork is very costly to put right and defects on the surface are generally only the tip of the iceberg !
Best of luck!
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Many thanks for all your replies.
I should have read Bill P's book more carefully as he said " that after inspecting two cars with original bodies from the TS 69xxx series only one had the removable blanking plate on the passenger side".
So generally later TR3A but with some anomalies. Typical TriumphTR!
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At what chassis number did Triumph omit the removable panels on the bulkhead?
Bill Piggott in his book Original TR 2-3A mentions it occurred for later 3As, if you have 3A without the panels it would be interesting to know your commission number
Thanks
Paul
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Qim,
The personal type of tracker:
https://www.rewiresecurity.co.uk/102-nano-gps-tracking-device-hard-wired-kit
Does not need an aerial but would need to be positioned carefully. Rewire also sell a vehicle power supply for it.
It works very well and lasts a few days on its internal battery, dependant on the features selected.
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Qim,
The trackers described in www.bertram-hill.com do have movement sensors, they can be programmed to several levels of sensitivity. They will ring your mobile if the car is moved. You do of course have to be in the mobile phone service area to receive a signal.
As Pete above says Rewire Security are a decent firm to deal with and supply an English operation manual. Perhaps you would not need this if you understand Chinglish!
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I thought all A type Overdrives leaked a bit!
Stand corrected
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Yes I ignored that little gem of duff gen as it didn't seem relevant. (Way off-topic and very geeky, but I still have a collection of very old transistors somewhere - and they are all pnp. Mullard OC16, Newmarket V30/10p that sort of thing; there is even one very early one still in its packet and labelled as a 'crystal triode'. I think the first npn transistor I encountered was an OC139 which you needed to make a complementary-pair amplifier output stage with an OC72.)
If you don't believe what the chap says about positive-earth, what other explanation is there for a change from neg to pos in the '40s and '50s by at least one manufacturer?
This takes me back to school boy days making transistor radios. The only reasonably priced audio transistors available then were "red spot PNP" I believe they were actually rejects. Costing 10 shillings ( 50p now) which in those days was a weeks pocket money. On one occasion after connecting one back to front the red spot changed to purple much to my horror and the transistor was no more. As radio/TV dealers had in the main been brought up with thermionic valves they were a bit wary of transistors. It was quite a profitable sideline mending them for them while still at school.
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Can you dismantle the original faulty unit
There is not likely to be much inside and could well be repaired.
Quite a few electrical/electronics experts on here!
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It looks very much like a blade from a wood planer with drive slots at each end, perhaps an early version before slot in blades were used?
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I am having a clear-out and have a large quantity of TR Actions etc. for disposal:
Spares News from March 1977 - May 1989
TRAction from number 37 - 265 inclusive
Extras August 1989, November 89 and February 1990
Yearbook 1975-2010
They would need to be collected from Cumbria
POR 15 advice please
in General TR Technical
Posted · Edited by Paul Down
Probably not the answer you would wish but having used POR15 before I would never use it again.
Its strange stuff, you cannot clean the brushes and has IMHO an unpleasant crusty appearance. No doubt it prevents rust but I much prefer ordinary black oil based paint. It is easy to apply , easy to repair if chipped and no problems in cleaning brushes etc. and gives a pleasing finish. A local restorer of Vintage Rolls Royce cars always uses oil paint to good effect and I took his advice.