Paul Down
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Posts posted by Paul Down
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Les that is bad very bad luck I am most sorry.
I remember asking you sometime back if you were a time served metal basher and was amazed to learn that you were self taught. You have done a splendid job on your bodywork and for anyone taking on the project a lot of the really hard work has already been done.
Best of luck with the sale, It may be worth advertising on the Car and Classic site its completely free.
I have unfortunately just sold my TR3A on there due to downsizing. but the advert received over 900 hits and sold quite quickly.
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The big advantage of the Nano and other systems marketed by Rewire Security is the absence of yearly subscriptions, £99 per year ! you can buy two trackers for that and apart from the SIM top ups no other costs.
PAYG SIMS are now again freely available ( and FOC),from many operators including O2, no need to top up every 3 months just make sure you use it at least once within 6 months.
The comment above that the tracker would function within a metal container I would doubt very much. How can radio waves especially very high frequency ones penetrate what is in effect a Faraday cage!
The Nano and its cousins work extremely well and the Google maps instant read out on your smart phone of the tracker's location is most impressive.
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Yes Car and Classic is excellent.
I have just sold my 3A through them. Over 800 views in less than a month.
Another advantage over the other free advertising site (Classic cars for sale) is that Car and Classic conceal your phone number and mail address using aliases whereas they are clearly visible on Classic Cars for sale.
And the site is completely free!
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You can fit a tracker for much less money have a look here:
www.bertram-hill.com
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Have a word with these people:
http://www.bgcmotorsport.co.uk/
I have found them most helpful and they keep large stocks
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I fitted a Davies Craig Booster pump in my 1936 Morgan with a Coventry Climax lump. This engine with syphon cooling only ( no water pump or fan) is known for overheating with current petrol and modern road conditions.
Previously the temperature used to settle at around 90-95 so it did not take much for it to boil. An electric fan did very little and it still boiled. The Booster pump brings the temperature down to 75 so cured the problem.
I did not use the controller but simply switch it on when needed. The only problem I have encountered is when re filling the coolant, an air leak does tend to occur on the inlet side of the pump. Easily cured by filling the pump before connecting the output.
The Coventry Climax engine is small ( approx.1200cc ) so a larger pump would be necessary for a TR etc.
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Rod,
I may have a spare set of TR2 Runners, will look tomorrow
Paul
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Many thanks to all for a very comprehensive answer, great place this Forum!!
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My son is about to restore a short door TR2 and asked my a question that I cannot answer.
On the Moss site:
It shows item 19 ( rear wing fixing clamp)
When we dismantled the car 40 years ago I could not recall such a clamp being fitted but then my memory is failing fast. Perhaps it had rusted away?
Does anyone know if this was an original fitting or a later enhancement
Thanks
Paul
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I used one of Moss's pipe assembly to install a heater in my TR3A. Mine was certainly not welded just a tight interference fit. I thought it a bit of a bodge.
Tim, some loctite sealer or similar should do the trick. Hopefully Roger will be along to advise!
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If you contact the RAC for a quote its well worth arguing that you can better the price elsewhere.
My cover for this year was £85, both wife and self covered either as a driver or passenger in any car of any age and recovery to home or choice of venue. They even threw in an extra 3 months cover( i.e.total of 15 months) for free.
Long gone are the days when the likes of he AA and RAC were mutual organisations, they are now owned by Financial institutions so treat them as such.
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Basically two types of HT leads:
1. Solid copper (i.e. no radio suppression) that should normally be used with a resistive plug connector to avoid radio interference.
2. Resistive leads that provide suppression and do not need a resistive spark plug connector. These as you have found have a resistance that depends on their length, roughly 10-50Kohms.
If either type measure open circuit , or a very high resistance then they are faulty.
Worth looking at the spark plugs after a misfire to see if any look a bit odd.
Capacitors and ignition coils can both fail when hot especially coils.
Best of luck
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John,
The fact that it started when you released the ignition key reminds me of a similar fault I experienced.
It turned out to be an intermittent ignition switch problem.
Easy to check by measuring that the ignition feed is present during cranking
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Alec was one of the most helpful people on the Forum, we never met but he went out of his way several times to solve some of my problems, a true stalwart.
I will miss his cutting humour his straight talking and his tremendous knowledge on most things motoring, Triumphs, the racing scene and much else. Alec did not suffer fools gladly a trait I find most endearing in this age where very few dare to speak their mind.
Sincere condolences to his family, RIP Alec you were a TR great and an irreplaceable loss to the Forum and the world as it is now.
Paul
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The question whether fitting rack and pinion steering to a side screen car invalidates its right to MOT free status is interesting.
There is no doubt as Bill Piggot highlighted that according to the Guidance notes the fitting R & P steering is a substantial change. But the guidance notes also say:
"..... changes that are made to preserve a vehicle, which in all cases must be when original type parts are no longer reasonably available...."
As most of the main original side screen steering components are now no longer available new, and many second hand parts will be worn out, is this sufficient to argue the case that the MOT free status should be retained for a car uprated to R & P ?
In my case it is academic as I consider it essential to have an experienced pair of eyes look over the car regularly.
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Use absorbent granules available in most motor factors to absorb the oil, then a degreaser as advised above.
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The Birthday list details David Ferry as 99 today, if that is correct he deserves congratulations he must be surely the oldest TR owner and Forum member!
Happy birthday David whatever your age
Paul
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Graham,
As Stuart mentioned earlier in the thread have you put new fuel in the tank.
After this winters lay up my 3A was reluctant to start even after :
Priming the carbs with fuel
Pulling the choke right out
Using a mains starter in parallel with the battery to give it an extra jolt.
Even after prolonged trying it only spluttered and backfired.
Put 10 litres of fresh fuel in the tank.
It started first time!
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Nightbreaker bulbs do offer quite an improvement over standard. I have them fitted on a TVR and initially just fitted one side, the difference was very noticeable.
As Rob says you gain and you lose so do not expect the same life expectancy. To me this is not a problem as the mileage covered in Classics is only low.
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My local radiator fettler said that Copper radiators are much more resilient to movement, whereas a copper rad will flex a little the same amount of movement could well crack an aluminium one.
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Ian,
You would be hard pushed to find anyone more helpful than Alec.
And not just on the Forum.
We all know his style - can appear forceful but never hostile.
Homophobic comment - vaguely, and not a reference I would make,
but not a big deal IMO and certainly not anonymous.
AlanR
+1
Well said!
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Edwin,
Send me your mail address and I can send the inside pics.
Paul
If you use Dropbox even better!
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I have the more general Stanpart accessories booklet if of interest:
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+1 for StuartsT7 recommendation.
Easy to fit
Very compact
Good output
Made in UK
Very keenly priced
Very pleased with it.
Gearbox bits
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Having sold my TR I have quite a few bits and pieces to get rid of. Before putting on eBay, thought to offer them on here first.
First Item a good TR2 non OD 3 synchro gearbox. The only thing is it is in bits:
The case, perfect and no damage
The top with the gear selectors and dipstick
Complete set of gears all look decent. Note the gears are compatible with an OD box so useful as spares
Main shaft, looks perfect, Lay shaft
Etc. Etc.
Perhaps someone has a damaged case or would like a top with the dip stick