Steve R
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Posts posted by Steve R
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I placed a ball bearing on the bit to be flared, nip it up with a G clamp to get the flare started, then put a socket or washers either side, thread a bolt through and tighten up.Simples!
Steve
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Keep it, it's part of your history and i assume you don't need the 10k, overheating and an overdrive problem don't sound like too much trouble, not enough to start a bells and whistles rebuild anyway. There will allways be a TR sized hole in your heart if you sell.
Steve
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Dan
I think that sounds about right, the maths are beyond me, but the lights are drawing more current than you can generate at 600 rpm, I'm sure that someone on here with more learning than myself will be able to do the sums.
Steve
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Guy
I did mine around ten years ago, and yes, the bases were expensive, and they're very bouncy! if i were to do it again i might try keeping the outer top and bottom frame and put foam in the middle, have a go, the ones you have are knackered anyway, so you've nothing to lose.
Steve
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Ash
I had a similar problem, the connections to the motor were correct, the other ends weren't, might be worth re checking.
Steve
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Hi Keith
The was a thread about this recently,so there may be a better description but it doesn't really go through the gearbox cover, there is a cut out in the cover so that it clears it. It should go under the floor in an arc towards the engine bay up past the steering column and then through the bulkhead.A long cable with a long gentle curve so as not to snag.
Steve
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Try this link, Item 31, http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ExplodedImageClassic.aspx?ProductId=101 you could also take the fitting along to a plumbers merchants to see if they have something that would fit.
Steve
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I agree with Andy, by holding the button in as you move the lever you can hear the pawl click over the ratchet, which is what they need to hear to pass the test, the fact that it works the other way round to most of the stuff they get in, shouldn't matter.
The thing about common sense is.....it's just not that common anymore.
Mine passes every year without comment on the handbrake.
Steve
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Moss do have them on the website, Item 65,
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1894
£38 each, and they are in the sale now, although i don't know how much the discount is.
The 275mm Brembo disks are only 5mm smaller and are on ebay at £50 per pair inc delivery.
Steve
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Andrew
This sort of thing shoud do it, you drill a clearance hole for the bolt, put the two halves together, then tighten it up, cutting the hole.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0543787
Regards
Steve
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Hello Ian
I dont have the angled drive on mine, I replaced the cable last year and didn't have a problem, it's a long cable, are you sure your proposed path is correct?
Regards
Steve
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Thanks Les
I'll have a good look at the pad sweep on the old disks and if it looks as if it'll be ok, fit the smaller ones. I just wanted to know if someone else had done it.
Regards
Steve
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I have been looking to replace the disks this winter, has anyone fitted 275mm disks, rather than the 11 inch? they seem more readily available, it's only 5 mm smaller.
Does size matter?
Steve
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I used a ball bearing, taped to a socket, then compressed it with a G-clamp to get the grommet to flare,then some washers each side with a bolt through to clamp it fully, worked out quite well.
Steve
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Hi Steve
I had this happen shortly after i bought my car, the DPO had fitted the brake shoes the same way up all round, so it could well be brake shoe related.
Steve
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Ian
I think the thread is BSP, I bought a plug from a plumbers supplies, use ptfe tape as it seals the thread and also makes it easy to undo. A bit left field perhaps, but its easier to find plumbers merchants in a hurry than TR specialists.
Steve
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Thanks Stuart
I Thought that looked the most likely, because of the sheared studs i haven't offered the front section up yet.
I will have to live with a different sound, the one on there was a welded one piece, one box, twin ended thing, I once arrived home just as my wife was opening the garage door, "that's lucky" I said, "I was in the loft and heard you coming down the bypass" she replied.
Steve
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It's all in the title really, I'm fitting a new stainless exhaust, I have the TR4 fitting kit, but as the old one was completely different I don't have a reference as to where the fixing should go. Any photo's or diagrams would be much appreciated.
Just got to drill the studs out of the manifold now.......
Thanks in advance
Steve R
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Hi Pat
There's a tab at the top that it hooks over and a sprung locating tab at the bottom, if you pull it from the bottom it should just come off.
Steve
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What is a rheostat?
It's the panel lights brightness control.
Sorry George I don't have a heater, it went to the US with one, but came back without. If you spot it somewhere.....
Steve
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Hi George
According to the diagram, on US spec cars, it should be behind the dash between the lighting switch and the rheostat, but over the course of 50 yrs the wiring may have "evolved"
Steve
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There is an inline fuse that protects the rear lights and dash lights, although that doesn't explain why you have no rear lights after the horn was fixed, the wiring diagram is here,
http://triumph.daveola.com/NOTES/Wiring-Diagram.pdf
The rear light feed comes from the light switch, through the fuse and on to the rheostat, then onto the rear lights, it shouldn't take you to long to find the problem.
Steve
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Hi Alan
What you need is a ball joint splitter, local motor factors/spares shop should have one. Having the correct tools makes things so much easier and preserves knuckle skin.
Steve
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I did the same as you when my gasket went, ask aound for how i should replace it, I got the whole range, dry, greased, wellseal, diluted wellseal and more. In the end i put it on dry following the advice of the guy that did the head, a thick copper gasket should seal ok without any other compounds, and the more gunk you put on it the harder it will be to seperate in the future.
Good Luck
Steve
electronic ignition for tr4
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I got one of these last year, http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits?sort=20a&filter_id=1 under £30 and takes only a few minutes to fit.
Steve