Steve R
-
Content Count
357 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Steve R
-
-
India is next port of call as the search goes on.
.
I am in Chennai at the moment, Madras in old money, working here for a week, haven't spotted any classics yet but if they are here, 1, they shouldn't be rusty, 2, they'll be lots of dents and dings, and 3, the horn is going to be knackered, It's just crazy out here
Steve
-
Hi Dean
I'm also in Kent and used Southern Rebore near Gatwick, http://www.southern-rebore.co.uk/SouthernReboreServicesII.htm
Steve
-
Hi Tom
Your slave cylinder should be on the other side of the bracket, so you're missing out on another 1/2 inch or so of travel, and as the piston does not fully retract you have to pump it a bit before you have enough movement.
Steve
Happy Christmas
-
Hi Norman
I think you are referring to the three punch marks around each valve that hold them in, Is there a technical term for them? just use a file or try a punch to tap the metal back, the valve will then come out, replace the seal underneath, pop the new one in and re-punch the sides to secure.
Steve
-
It's a bit difficult to say what the cause may be if you don't want to take it apart, probably the brass wiper thing, or bad connection on the top, daft to get parts before knowing the cause, it's only a ten minute job.
Steve
PS. I know......some full restorations have started out as ten minute jobs
-
-
Hi Richard
As long as the actuator moves enough to positively open the contacts,I don't think it really matters. I think adjusting the points will "Tune" the horn as the distance the solenoid travels will affect the frequency of vibration, being a bit flat or a bit sharp may annoy members of the LSO, but i would just be happy that they were now working.
Steve
-
Is that an Italia hiding behind it?
Steve
-
Hi Richard
If you have an original type horn the solenoid is connected to a diaphragm, when this move it breaks the contact, changing the polarity i think would move the solenoid the wrong way................or i could be wrong, try this from the MG man http://www.vintagemg.com/ArticlePDFs/THorns1-2.pdf
Regards
Steve
-
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm
Hi Ian
Above is the link to a calibration guide, I can't get on the website at the moment but i remember you use a couple of resistors to set it up. I did this a few years back when i had similar problems.
Steve
-
Hi
The MG Guru website has a lot of faulfinding/setup info for the fuel gauge/sender.
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fuel.htm
Regards
Steve
-
Hi Giles
I'd replace the solenoid, the click is the magnet pulling in, but for some reason not closing the contacts inside.
Steve
-
Boggie
It should just pull out, try removing the housing too, perhaps you can attack it from the other end, I had a new bulb fitted and the gauge refurbished for around £60, so not too expensive if you damage it.
Steve
-
Bill
Just a thought, could the tapping come from the fuel pump? try the old screwdriver to the ear trick.
Steve
-
Glenn
The fronts are easy, you wont need a puller, the rear is a different matter altogether, unless there is a problem with them I'd leave them alone, the puller would not be up to the job.
Steve
-
Hi Colin
I don't have the original aero fittings as mine is too late, but If it helps the tonneau fittings have the dots pointed forwards. aftermarket screens and fixings are pictured.
regards
Steve
-
Hi Guy
I used small cable ties in place of the hog rings on the base, you can easily adjust the tension of the cover to get it even.
Steve
-
Pulled already!
-
Rod,
1, Black/Green
2, Green
3,Black.
Hope that works for you.
Steve
-
Hello Rod
It's not just you, the wiper motor confused me when i installed a new loom, I put it back together as i thought it should be and it kept blowing fuses, there are three spade terminals on the motor, marked as 1,2,3, plus the wire on the self parking bit, however the diagram doesn't show which is which, I did find a diagram with them marked............but i can't remember where, all this is a long winded way of saying I don't know, but I will have a look at my car when i get home, and if someone else has not come up with the answer, let you know.
Steve
-
Hello Alexander
The egg shape switch was introduced at TS6265 according to the Original TR book, 1959 seems a bit late for the push pull type, as to what is best, all down to personal taste i suppose, I've got the later type and it's easy enough to operate with a flick of the little finger.
Steve
-
Hi Pete
Congrats on saving another TR.
Check that the chamfer on the nuts match the ones on the hub, it's possible to bottom out the nuts onto the hub and not the adaptor.
First run of the year today, lovely.
Steve
-
I used small cable ties instead of the hog rings on the base, it makes it easier to adjust the tension.
Steve
-
Hello Kevin
Not sure why your points don't seem to adjust, you could try an electronic module type, http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits/by-distributor-model/lucas-dm2-powerspark-electronic-ignition-kit I've no connection to the seller, just a customer, i bought one last year and it's only a 10 minute job to fit.
Steve
48 spoke wire wheels, how evil are they ?
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I've got 48's on mine, they are relatively new though, bought over the last 12 years, I just replaced like with like, didn't know any better, but 40-50 year old wires whether 48 or 60 may be a different matter.
Steve