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Steve R

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Posts posted by Steve R

  2. Modified and fabricated tools - Show & Tell

    in General TR Technical

    Posted

    Thanks for the suggestions,

    I bought a pair of hubs after the studs pulled out of one of them, I replaced the failed one and have been trying to remove the other now and again ever since ( it was 16 years ago!!) so I'll get it done one day :) I'll grind through the hub along the line of the woodruff key.

    I found with the other one that once you cut through some of the hub there'll be enough flex to pop it off.

    Steve

  4. Why wont my car start

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted

    Update!!!

    In a fleeting moment of clarity, I have just realised why I was getting so confused with the timing, the spare cap and leads I have fits onto the dizzi 45 degrees out from the original one, but the leads were cut and labelled up the same, so at TDC it went 2 1 3 4

    rather than 1 3 4 2, no wonder it was backfiring, I feel I now have a fighting chance.

    Thanks all for your comments.

    Steve

  6. Why wont my car start

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted

    Hi Iain, No It's not 180 out, the dizzi dog will only engage one way, if i turned it around the vernier would be next to the block, and only a really mean bugger would break into my garage and alter the timing since I last used it!

     

    Roy, I'm in Ashford, I have put my old plugs back, I always keep the old bits that i know were working as spares. I've ordered more tools, compression tester and strobe light, if it sees me aim a gun at the engine it may decide to work :)

     

    Thanks all for your suggestions so far, I will win eventually, I have always worked as a service engineer, so I know that 95% of the time it's something silly, a 1/2 hour job, the other 5% is when you have to earn your corn, this may be one of those.

    I will report back when I find out what it was, even if it's my fault.

    Steve

  7. Why wont my car start

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted

    Thanks all

    HT leads are correct and labeled, connections to coil are correct way around, and I connected a feed directly from the battery to the coil.

    Reading through the article Ian linked,I should be firing #1 at TDC, but the rotor is at 11 o'clock which is #2, or am I mis reading that?

    I have gone through all the simple, most likely stuff I can think of, after all, I drove the car into the garage and It worked fine last time I used it,

    I'll get there in the end, but it is a bit odd......

    Steve

  9. Why wont my car start

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted · Edited by Steve R

    Hi Alan

    Thanks, I did read a simple way to set up the static timing but I can't remember where I saw it. But logic suggests that if i drove it into the garage, It shouldn't have moved before I tried to drive it out again, I've tried moving it a couple of degrees at a time around where It was but I'm calling it a day today, I may have a eureka moment tonight :o

    Steve

  10. Why wont my car start

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted · Edited by Steve R

    Hi Stuart

    No, it didn't start after the new fuel, it had started last week with what I have in the tank. yesterday I emptied the carb bowls and put fresh fuel in, no change.

    As it's backfiring (quite violently) I suspect timing, but as the clamp was secure I don't think it could have moved, and when I've adjusted it before you can rotate it quite a bit and the engine still runs.

    I've checked the rockers, #2 exhaust lock nut was loose, so i've adjusted them all again (I wondered if a bolt holding the shaft had sheared allowing it to float)

    Steve

  11. Why wont my car start

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted

    Johannes, I've replaced the low tension wire to the dizzi,

    Stef, thanks

    Bob the points were the ones that worked when I changed over to electronics a few years ago, I kept them in a bag as a spare, moving the dizzi clockwise stops the backfire, but still doesn't start, the clamp was tight so I don't think it had moved.

    So rotor at 11 o/c at TDC is ok, good, I was beginning to wonder if I had jumped a cog or a key had sheared. I've had the car 18 years and have always managed to coax it into life after the winter layup.......til now.

     

    Steve

  12. Why wont my car start

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted · Edited by Steve R

    Gents

    I am trying to work this through and have not got anywhere so far, the car eventually started last week on one/two cylinders, I had a faff around got nowhere and left it for another day, I then reseated and checked connections to the dizzi and coil and got it running, great! all ready for the weekend satrted last, but come the sunshine it was a no go again.

     

    Symptoms are: engines turns over fine, loud backfires and won't catch at all, although when you realease the starter it sort of half catches.

    I have changed the plugs, cap/leads, coil. connection from dizzi to coil, installed feed to coil directly from battery, earth from battery to engine, gone from electronic ignition back to points, I am getting sparks and fuel, I put new fuel in carbs, carbs seem to be working ok, pistons rise and fall without a problem.

    When lining up the pully hole with the pointer the rotor arm is at 10/11 o'clock(#2), shouldn't it be #1(7/8 o'clock)?

     

    The fact that between problems I had managed to start it, suggest it may be something daft, if so it's still cleverer than me, 'cos I'm baffled, have I missed anything? am I suffering from brain fade?

    Any wisdom, suggestions, magic wands, will be gratefully recieved.

     

    Steve

  13. Gearbox replacement

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted · Edited by Steve R

    Phil

    I used loads of words when I fitted mine! not many of them wise, but they worked,.... eventually, I did read that putting exhaust manifold studs in the bell housing helps line it up. and be careful when raising the rear of the engine that you don't put strain on the exhaust or top rad hose. And of course put it in gear so that you can turn the output shaft to engage the splines.

    Good Luck

    Steve

  17. Fan belt help

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Here is a link to a belt supplier http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/V_Belts_-3290-c

    It gives you useful Information on the different section sizes, the 975 you have is the length, and the section code is BX, for cogged, or B for solid, 17mm width at the top and 11 mm height.

    I have a B section belt fitted to my car and although it sits lower in the pullys than the original Imperial belt, it works fine.

    I'm sure If you give your local bearing shop a call they will be able to sort you out.

    Have a Happy New Year

    Steve

  18. Fuel Pump Problem

    in TR4/4A Forum

    Posted

    Just remove the tines, burred over bits, Is there a word for these?? and the valves will pull out, pop the new ones in and use a punch on the edge of the housing to secure it again, don't forget to get them the right way around.

    Steve

     

    PS Happy Christmas all

  22. TR3a door pockets

    in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum

    Posted

    Austin

    If you can't get split rivets you could use pop rivets with a washer on the back side, they would be flush when covered by new foam and vinyl. I fixed the new covering on mine with staples, it does mean you can do it again if it doesn't look right. Be careful if you drill new holes through the re-finished panel, the drill bit will snatch the foam and drag it all out through the hole you make!

    Good Luck

    Steve

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