Anschutz
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Posts posted by Anschutz
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I had trouble with my Luminition module last year and it would misfire badly when it got hot.( it was 30years old!) replaced with points and it was fine.
Fiest poit of call though is the rotor arm.
I am having problems now with the coils, they don't last long and I presume they are all made in China?
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You need good vacuum to get it to run right, have you good compressions spot on timing valve clearances correct? Do these first
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On 1/8/2022 at 11:35 PM, Z320 said:
Hi folks,
very good TRier asked that, it reminded me today on a video I've seen years ago at Youtube.
The engine / gearbox unit in our TRs is slightly angled about 5° in the frame (the outgoing flange of the gearbox is lower than the front end of the crankshaft).
For constant velocity of the diff flange, the flanges of the diff and gearbox have to be parallel
--> means the diff has to be angled the same amount as the engine / gearbox unit is angled.
This is why the IRS diff is mounted in the frame as it is and I have to take my alu spacers out again.
I not realised any problem / vibration until now, but I did not drive faster than 90 km/h since fitted.
Sorry me for my @&5$§!!@ writing above and for any irritation I caused, I should have known better.
Ciao, Marco
Perhaps CV joints are not the wonderful answer to all our problems?
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46 minutes ago, harlequin said:
8" to 9" of vacuum seems low to me, I thought a PI car should draw 12"-Hg?
My US car running on Strombergs with a CP cam draws 18" -Hg and a friends car also on Strombergs but with the latter CR cam draws 21" -Hg at tick over.
Maybe you have a little leak somewhere.
G
Worth a check but economy seems OK for a PI car
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Perhaps the first thing to check then is the pads, they may be glazed a bit so a clean up first.
I was just curious as to whether the servo would be more efficient with greater vacuum?
Derek
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Peter I ask because the car is on PI and I get 8 to 9 " of vacuum and I would think HS6's would possibly double that?
Plus I am getting old!
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I had my rack reconditioned when I saw that they advertise these HR racks as not being suitable for competition use!
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7 minutes ago, Peter Cobbold said:
Many SUs have over-run valves in the butterflies that will have the effect of lessening the servo action compared with solid PI butterflies. My guess is the differences between the PI cam and the carb cam might explain the servo effect, but it is just a guess.
Peter
Thanks Peter
So it would be possible to get more servo assistance with better vacuum?
Derek
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I would like to ask if a six cylinder car on carburetors creating more vacuum than a PI engine has a lighter brake pedal due to the efect of more servo assistance?
Thanks
Derek
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On 6/26/2020 at 9:28 AM, Adrian Steele said:
Thx Andy. Planning to check the pressure. Re filter, its clear and the wiring was replaced 5 years ago when I fitted the new Bosch setup from Malcom at Prestige. Now all I need to figure out his how to keep peas frozen in the boot!
Cold water works too, just remember to take out the boot floor grommet!
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Goes to a normal car vacuum gauge such as http://www.speedogra...ial_offers.html although you sometimes find black dial gauges on ebay etc. Also when working vacuum will not be as good as if fitted to carbs.
Black gauge http://thegaugeshop.com/shop/category_8/VACUUM-GAUGES.html?shop_param=cid%3D%26
If you do get one that needs a refurb use http://www.jdo10.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/ Excellent service and good price.
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The trailing arms look different to standard 6 but maybe that is just the picture angles or the paint?
I bought this kit complete (without the anti roll bar) and fitted it a few years ago, my opinion is that it is great for track days and the car handled well but it just didn't suit Lincolnshire roads as ground clearance was 21/2 inches! I spoke to Revington at the time but they said it should be about 4" and gave no explanation as to why it was so low. I asked them if I could fit longer springs but they said no. I no longer have the kit fitted and the ground clearance and ride is back to normal much more suited to an ageing body. If you do go to TRGB and have them replaced don't leave the springs and shocks with them.
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Sorry for the delay in replying Nick P, problems with Windows on the computer.
Hope the pics upload OK when I finally sort out how to get them on!.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/anschutz2/6966655695/" title="TR Manifolds 001 by Anschutz2, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/6966655695_ff4592949a.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="TR Manifolds 001"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/anschutz2/6966656421/" title="TR Manifolds 004 by Anschutz2, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7064/6966656421_30ffccbd62.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="TR Manifolds 004"></a>
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Oh dear I've just fitted a KYK bearing with a Laycock plate and cover! Ok so far though, fingers crossed.
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Whats wrong with clean parrafin to wash out with?
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Even when new most owners were in the teens when about town but you should get mid to high twenties if on a steady run (a lot less with Webers)check your vacum to the metering unit, it depends on good vacum it should be about 8 to 10Hg tickover on a PI
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I think you should ignore the strobe and static timing, if it is pinking on load on the road retard ignition till it stops then get it on a rolling road or Crypton device to see what is happening
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I have MX5 seats and four point harness they are fitted to eyebolts with snap hook fittings and MOT tester didn't comment on them, just tried to fail the 6 on a petrol filler cap that wasn't sealed!
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I don't think this is your problem (Sorry but I thought I would add a comment) But the rear bulb holders can have a problem with the earth connection between the part that holds the bulb and the bit that clips into the back valance, it just needs a bit of wire to make a path soldering on.
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Has anyone driven a 6 with a louvered bonnet? are there any fumes problems?
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back in the sixties when grease nipples were still on water pumps ordinary grease (the same as for ball joints etc) was used with no problems
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Place the pin on the handle and hold it in line with some "Dum Dum" type of putty then push handle forward and push pin down with a small screwdriver when the holes line up, ignore the putty as it will be there for the next time
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You could try http://www.moto-lita.co.uk/ I have found them very helpful
Lost & found in the loft
in For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250
Posted
Best wishes Bob, hope the move goes well
Derek