jothecat
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Posts posted by jothecat
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My TR goes on the rollers but the tester uses his discretion to pass or fail depending on the analogue reading, even though it is a computer based MOT.
The new ATL one man test lanes may be different?
Jo
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Martin does a great job, and I am biased because we both worked for the same firm at the same time (different locations though).
Unfortunately he couldn't repair my distributor because it was seized, despite a blow torch heating it up.
Gentleman that he is I wasn't charged a bean despite his efforts.
Thoroughly recommended
Jo.
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Be careful it isn't a single layer metallic rather than clear over base. SLM really hard to replicate.
Jo
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Hi Rob
I have thoroughly enjoyed your thread and it has inspired me. I understand your reasons for selling, I too sold a pukka 7V8 convertible that was completely rebuilt. I sold it in 94 to pay off negative equity for a house/career move.
After 9 years without, I had to get another, the one I have now.
At the time my negative equity was a huge 20%. Now the 12k is a much smaller drop in the ocean. My point being that you might not stop the itch, scratching it later might cost more than what you perceive to be saving now.
Your car looks and is perceived to be top notch, do what you can to keep it and scratch that itch to stop the rash spreading.
Regards
Jo.
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332BHP in the one below, not that I ever get to use all of them.
That increases the need for a hairdresser after a drive with the roof down.
Jo
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10-12k for a really good one
IMHO
Jo
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Shame. Nice looking motor car.
Jo
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I have a slightly modified ( to make it fit) SD1 power rack from a Vitesse. Any ideas on what the ratio/ turn rate etc is?
Thanks
Jo
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Hi Nigel,
Well done on your wedge ownership, I think you do your car a disservice describing it as scruffy as it looks pretty good to me. The nice TR alloys set it off well. I echo Alec's point on upgrading the brakes. Even the standard 2 litre braking was challenging back in the day.
I hope that you have plenty of fun together. Will you take it to Harrogate?
ATB
Jo
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Any photos of it available to peruse?
Jo
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Back in the day Barry Sheene used to advertise Dynaglaze Back to Black with the strap line "go on, spoil'er".
It worked well. These days I use Concept Valeting Gel, more than satisfied. however, stove black paint worked wonders on the Victorian fireplace, I think it won't be flexible enough for the bumpers though.
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I had the rover SD1 Vitesse calipers and discs replaced with a great set up from Revington's. Grooved vented discs and "formula 3000" calipers (according to my mot tester). It stops like a modern car, much improved on the pervious set up. Not cheap, but well worth it.
I'll look out the details if you are interested.
Jo
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Stick on walnut dash look a like.........
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Hi, Pink,
Had a similar problem on an Octavia - scrubbed out the front tyres on the inside in 12,000 miles after the first set lasted twice as long.
Track was ok, so took it to a Chemix centre, who have the latest optical kit, and found the castor was out. Like your people, the check was free, but I was charged £57 inc VAT
I now watch the inside of my tyres like a hawk - Chemix recommend a check every 3 months and the operator blamed sleeping policemen for knocking out the settings.
John
Did the sleeping police man have his gun strapped to his ankle at the time?
Rumour is that an employee at an Indian insurance call centre opened a life claim when a policy holder said they had driven over a sleeping policeman.
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Cellulose was outlawed by the Environmental Protection Act, it is only available in very rare circumstances for professional use only via licensed body shops. Same for standard 2k top coats. When I worked for a paint factor cellulose, single pack acrylic, coach finish, normal solids polyurethane and normal solids 2k were all phased out by legislation.
Solid colour in the aftermarket is high solid 2pack, but most solid colours are now water based base coat with an EHS 2k clear lacquer.
Metallics are also water based base coat with an EHS 2k clear lacquer.
Cellulose sinks, shrinks, and cracks. 2k acrylic is more flexible. Unfortunately not many old colours are available in water based paint.
It may seem perverse to put water on cars, but it works.
Ideally, 2pack etch primer, followed by an hs 2k primer, then water based colour base coat, then an EHS 2k lacquer, but it might look too new and shiny.
Jo
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TR4 Tony------typo!
Surely you were referring to the Panto Grib £200 (two metal plates and some springs)"LSD"? Or was that Phantom Grope..
Gripper makes the only LSD that works, since Quaife bought out Tran-X & c+cked those up too!
Indeed .... iPad spellcheck .... Add it to the useless stuff. Phantom gripper grope rubbish .....
Original TRANX or Salisbury in my experience are the only LSD's that actuall limit slip in a beneficial manner .... The rest appear to be chocolate teapots
The Quaife LSD on my 7 is fine and dandy, enhances spirited driving. The waterless coolant and silicone hoses helped in 40 degree traffic jams.
However, the chromed bonnet closure was a triumph of vanity over sanity! The rally harness is OTT and I should replace it with a new belt and stalk.
Just my opinion.
Jo
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My experiences concur with Alec's advice above 100%. I also run the setup he suggests albeit on an Edlebrock not a Holley. The new facet red top competition pumps have filters and diaphragms that are ethanol resistant.
Hi Wayne
Thanks for your advice. I think I'll get one and keep it as a spare until the new one packs up.
Regards
Jo
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Thanks Ian
I have something from S&S which I fitted in Mst 2011. When the ignition is turned on there is usually about 20 clicks of the pump being primed.
Now there is about 1 or 2 but mostly none.
It's probably lack of use.
It failed a month ago but a tap with a hammer got it going. That won't work either (the effect, not the hammer itself).
Got a new one on order overnight. Car due into the bodyshop today, it'll be tomorrow pm.
Thanks for your help.
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Thanks for the advice Alec
Really appreciated
Jo
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Anyone recommend a decent fuel pump for a holley carb V8. Mine packed up this morning (in the garage). Only done approx 3-4k miles.
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The new wheel nuts look very shiny. The wheels are being refurbished and I look forward to getting them back on Monday. I'll try and post a pic of them next week.
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Alec,
many thanks indeed; I have looked at the Rimmer Bros website and compared a close up photo there witth the real thing & conclude like you that it looks the same so I have taken the step of ordering 20. Fingers crossed.
of course the guys are trained to upsell, so I ended up getting a rear bumper cover (which I do need as mine has buckled under the sun and is taking the pain off underneath the n/s rear light cluster, and a fitting kit for same.
I await the courier (I have read previous threads about the Royal Mail v the couriers) which I hope will find one of my branches where I can pick them up later next week.
Many thanks for your help it is appreciated,
regards
Jo
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Thanks Alec,
I am having the wheels refurbished and thought I'd replace the nuts too. On my car the hubs have male threads which the wheel sits on and then the nut holds it on, rather than having bolts. The holes in the wheels had to be machined out slightly to fit the hubs, so in effect the holes are oval with the thread & nut holding on the outer edge; sounds strange but works perfectly for 10 years.
The wheel specialist found a threaded bolt for me to take away which fitted the nut. I have just taken said nut and bolt to my local engineering workshop & they measured the thread of the bolt as 12mm x 1.5 using a die, then found the equivalent tap which fitted the nut perfectly. Perhaps it'd be best to put the die on the car to get the exact thread measurement? The wheels are off an SD1 Vitesse but the hubs probably aren't if the wheel holes had to be amended?
I wonder if I can post a pic of said nut?
My TR7
in TR7/8 Forum
Posted
Sure looks a handsome 7!
Nice to see.
Jo