kegsie
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Posts posted by kegsie
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I think the most searching question to ask is what could have happened in the engine during the lay-up (assuming it was running fine beforehand). You can be certain the bores will not have worn. Nor is it likely that rings have broken, unless it happened in the first few seconds of restarting. So stuck rings seem to me to be the most likely cause of the rough running.
So try paraffin - keep adding it every few days. When it comes to running it again drain the sump refill with fresh oil, fit clean plugs. Run it up to temperature, try a short run. Recheck compressions.
I presume the mechanic tested compressions without and with oil in bores- so do you have a plus-oil figure: it should be higher than 150 if it is rings. If compression figures were same withoput/with oil then could be valves sticking slightly open on perhaps rusty particles on the seats.
Also asking what could have happened in lay-up suggest to me that head gasket could be OK - if engine was stored with correct antifreeze content. It didnt freeze solid last winter did it??
Peter
Hi Peter
my mechanic did put some oil in the bores and the compression rose to a suitable level (i don't know exectly what it was) but on running oil left and compression dropped again. it was outside under wraps during the last 'big freeze' but i did check on it every couple of days to check where i could for any ice damage, thats not to say that something didn't go untoward during that time. over the weekend i will give the parafin a try, am i supposed to start it up after ech eggcup full or am i supposed to let it 'soak' for a while and then start at a later date?
its good to hear that most of the work for the bottom end rebuild can be done with the engine in the car, i am struggling for space (even though i have a double garage, didn't realise all kids bikes and outdoor toys took up so much space, only one thing to say to that and that is 'sorry dad' for when i was little and obliterated his garage!!) the mechanic is waiting for his son (similar issue with garage) to finish the subframe on his classic mini so that he can get his ramp back, hopefully can get it in with him then.
asked him about cost, he thinks possibly a couple of days, and as im interested in helping out as much as possible he belives will be less than £200 for the labour, just will need a good cheap source for the parts.
thanks again for your help and interest
kegsie
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Thanks for all the info Peter
the mechanic i use has been great all the time i have had the car (mostly because my work does not allow me the time etc to work on it)so i pretty much trust his judgement. i will try the parafin method to see if it will free up the rings, but when i drove it back from the garage to home it was running really rough, the worst i have ever experienced so i don't much fancy driving it for a long time.
i will look up the garage you suggest and see what costs are going to be involved. it may well turn out that the lay up for the car may be quite some more time yet.
once again thanks
Kegsie
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Update to engine running woes....
car came back from garage today, compression tests showed 200 psi on 1,2,3 and 5 and only 150 psi on 4 and 6, blowing smole and not firing correctly, diagnosis we think is piston rings damaged or stuck but it will need a rebuild. my mechanic said that the top end of the engine is sound, so the decision now stems around whether to have rebuilt or look around for a recon.
does anyone know of anywhere i could go for a recon engine in or around the Staffordshire area, or any other thoughts as to what to do. on a lighter note, it passed the MOT and the details for the sale of the reg plate have now gone away, it looks like the majority of that money is now going on the engine, and not the respray and body repairs i originally wanted.
cheers
Kegsie
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Peter,
she is now running on HS6 su's (donated from a TR7 with several adjustments). it is definately only firing on five cylinders so i just need to trace (have traced) the cause of that so that she runs more smoothly then turn my attentions on to the cause of the steam/white smoke (that is assuming that they are not connected or one and the same).
thanks again for your help
Kegsie
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Peter
i will give that a check, although i don't appear to be losing water (both radiator and header tank are topped up). if there is something i have learned from owning the TR its that there are always plenty of reasons to get my hands dirty.
many thanks
kegzee
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I work for ABB ltd a large Multi National. We do use some private plates.......
yorkkie,
whereabouts in stafford are you as that is where i live.
Got the car booked in for next week to be tested, it is only firing on five cylinders, but i have checked several other ways for head gasket and all have come up negative, still not ruling it out though, just to keep everyone informed, she passed the MOT and it looks like the reg plate is on its way, and the money is already spent i think.
thanks for the replies
kegsie
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thanks for that, i was a little worried that may be the case will get it to the garage and have compression test done as a check. just so you know the reg is ABB 142M, not sure why they have offered me money for it, but it means nothing to me so worth it, may now be spending the money on an engine rebuild!!
cheers
kegsie
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hi, its been a while since i have posted but the 'green baby' has been off the road for two years during extensive house renovations, and it is now time for me to return my attentions to her.
i replaced the fuel and ensured that the engine turned before starting, oil level was ok but is due for replacement, got it up and going but it was running very rough and sounded like it was not firing on all cylinders. so i turned it off and started to remove the plugs to check/clean etc, plugs were all either very sooty or slightly wet which is pretty much what i expected with only short runnings.
what baffled me was removing the first spark plug (nearest to bulkhead) and a great stream of white smoke/steam came out of it for a good ten seconds. at the time i didn't think much of it put everything back clean and started again. car ran better but quite a bit of grey smoke coming from one of the exhausts, i think this will be to do with the carbs (HS6 su's) needing some work, but want to know if it is something more sinister.
due to take it for MOT tomorrow so worried this will have an impact on this, quite important to get the MOT as i have been offered a lot of money for the registration plate, which will come in handy to help pay for fixing her up.
any views gratefully received.
many thanks
kegsie
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hi stan
thanks for that, it looks like i will be 'having a bash' at the front valance some time in the near future, it may not look too pretty at the end of it but i suppose most of it is covered with lots of ancillary 'stuff'
cheers
k
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hi again
i have now sorted the carbs out, many thanks to all who helped on my previous question, this led to an oil pressure problem, which after much reading on this site and much head scratching i have now also sorted, the problem now is while looking around my little baby i have noticed quite a lot of rust on the front panel/valance, which i think when i have a right good clean of will show a nightmare, so a couple of questions
1. how is this panel fixed to the car, is it welded (spot etc)
2. is it easy or very hard to remove
3. after looking at rimmer and moss this panel is quite pricey, does anyone have or know of any second hand ones and if so how much
many thaks in advance for the replies.
k
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Chris,
thats brill mate, when the carbs arrive i will find myself having a wonder down to B&Q and will manufacture just like yours i think, can i ask what air cleaner(s) you are using?, i have just bought (without seeing) some ram pipes to give these a try but not sure if this is the right way to go.
thanks for the photo, it will come in handy
cheers
k
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thanks again for the answers
sounds like a good idea for the sprint linkages ngtf, i have already bought the carbs im afraid alec so i will give fleabay a try or have a go at manufacturing some when i finally get round to fitting. the TSSC show at stafford showground is in august this year so i may have a look around there as i only live down the road.
cheers
k
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hi and thanks for the replies so far,
marvmul, again excuse the lack of knowledge, but is there anything for the linkages from the strombergs that could be saved and adapted or will i need to start looking around for other spares, Gary, i have already bought a complete set with manifold and linkage but thanks for the offer, if anything is useless on it i will drop you a call, i am from the staffs area btw.
cheers
k
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hi all
i have been having loads of problems with the strombergs that are on 'my little baby', and not being very mechanically minded but not fearing having a go, wondered if a set of Hs6 su's originally from a tr7 could be adapted to fit?
ideally needs to be fairly cheap to do as i require a new hood, as well as the front end being resprayed so you can imagine i need to keep costs down, especially with the expensive liquid gold at the mo.
many thanks for any info
k
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hi again,
i don't put a post in for a few months then fing myself asking loads of questions all at once, it must be close to the time for the tr to come out of hibernation again!!
anyway, i am now toying with the idea of getting a set of wire wheels as i feel they give the best look. i have seen a few sets come and go on e-bay and was wondering if i have to look a ones advertised to tr 3-6 only or are any others from other marques usable.
i know that i need 15 inch wheels and 5.5j (whatever that means) but can i get these from other motors or am i just going to have to wait on an elusive set. are all the spline sizes the same so that i only have to purchase the hub converters or am i just barking up the wrong tree (or just barking mad)
hope someone can help and thanks in advance
cheers
kegsie
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thanks red 6, was a bit worried for a mo hat noone could help, as the original air box no longer has the pipe i may try a fabricate something to allow the cold air, as it seems a shame to have two nice shiny filters sat in my shed
thanks again
kegsie
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hi all
just about to change the main air filter box on my yank twin stromberg tr6 to two speeograph pancake filters. i have recently been told that this may cause a few probs in that it may starve the carbs of air and was just wondering if anyone else had ever fitted these and if so have they had any probs.
cheers
kegsie
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tom, you will have to help me out here, what are the lever shocks?, are these the rearward mounts on the diff? 1 thing i have found is that the metal tube pushes through the rubber mounting on one side, could this be the prob? i have already ordered a new one so i am hopeful
cheers
kegsie
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had the welding done also added some reinforcement along the one side, he made a great job of it all, took me an hour or so to put the car back together, drove off with a rather unsatisfying clunk as before, so it seams i have remedied a problem that i didn't even know that i had, never mind back to the drawing board
thanks for all the advice
cheers
kegsie
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took off the diff today and found the right front mounting cracked all way thru (as expected), taking the car tomorrow to a welder and he is going to use oxy-acetylene to weld the crack, will ask him about reinforing the section at that time also.
thanks for all the replies and i will keep you posted
cheers
kegsie
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hi guys again,
it seema that once i solve one prob along comes another prob very soon afterwards.
the latest one (and probably the worst to yet) iswhen accelerating hard and then changing gear i get a dull thud from behind me. after reading through a few pages of some books on the tr6 i believe this could be one of the diff mounting pins.
what i would lke to know is what is the easiest and the best way to tackle this problem, i would really prefer not to take the body off due to all the associated hassles that causes, i have seen the special reinforcement pieces and understand that they need to be welded into place but have also read about some people cutting thru the parcel shelf to give access to the top of the mounting, is this a good way to go? and if so has anyone done it already who could give me some pointers? or is it just best to take it to a reputable tr mechanic and let them loose on it?
thanks in advance
cheers
kegsie
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hi guys
had to resort to getting breakdown company in as car was abandoned at work, he checked leads for sparks and found none, checked the ignition coil and found working then took off the dizzy cap to find something that the previous night had resembled a rotor arm but had since become mashed. only a guess he said but this could be the prob.
fitted new one and all is well with 'abbi' again. thanks for the replies
cheers
kegsie
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hi guys hope someone can help
i have been having trouble recently with my tr6 misfiring so had a look on this site and started working my way through some of the possible solutions.
today it was the turn of the points and condenser, so replaced and reset them started her up but still the misfire remained
we thought we would then try and see if it was a cylinder that wasn't getting a spark, pulled the lead from no. 1 and the engine died, reconnected it and tried restarting to no avail, tried all of the rest of the leads and still nothing. then put the old points and condenser in just in case and still nothing. this has left me scrtching my head somewhat and would like to know if any of you have any solutions. just in case it makes a difference this is a stromberged carbed car and has had no previous starting or misfiring probs
hope you can help
cheers
kegsie
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hi to you all again
ok so i need to remove the wings, i have got a haynes manual and also the how to restore book by r williams but they don't seem to guide that much, if i am right there are 14 bolts holding the wing on, i also have to remove the bumber and light fittings, just a couple of questions, how do i remove the chrome sill strip? in the catalogues it states they are fitted on to rivets but is it supposed to slide off or unclip? also is there anything else that must come off or be removed brfore tackling this
thanks again
kegsie
Engine running woes
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Peter
i think i am goiing to give the oil additive a go first to see if it releases it, i am struggling to find the motorsilk version, but on a google search, it came up with something called Amtech Restore Oil, i have read through the reviews and it looks good stuff and i think this will do the same as the motorsilk but could i ask you and the other TR experts what they think? the link is below
http://www.americantechnology.co.uk/engine-restorer--lubricant-1-c.asp
if not i might as well give the 'explosive' stuff a try that Alec has talked about, so thanks very much for the info Alec, and i will get in touch with you should i need it, my concern is that if i get in touch before, it may lead to some sort of arrest or something!!!!
many thanks
Kegsie