[after rebuild, engine won't start, stalls as if too much advance]

thank you gentlemen to have put me in the right direction

indeed the timing advance was wrong,

and voilà ! engine has started

 

thanks again

 

Philippe

[after rebuild, engine won't start, stalls as if too much advance]

thank you for all the prompt answers. So timing should be the problem

As I have only changed the rod bearings, rings, and worked on the head, I am pretty confident the pulley mark is good when at TDC

any way I could have misplaced the distributor gear ? I'll recheck everything

 

thanks

 

Philippe

[after rebuild, engine won't start, stalls as if too much advance]

hi all,

 

I have performed a rebuild of my engine recently. It is now back in the engine bay but won't start : starter runs, and when engine seems to catch up it stalls as if it had too much advance and explosion occurred before TDC

I have double checked ignition timing and it seems good (to me but I may be wrong)

Here is a link to how it behaves : https://youtu.be/rd-hfZhAzwk

any idea of what could be the problem ?

thanks

 

Philippe

[oil pressure over 100 psi]

I did a short ride but the pressure didn't drop. Today I drained the oil and changed the filter. Old filter was maybe a bit dirty, but not so much. After the oil change, I had to screw in the valve a few turns, but I'm still offset from where I was before. I guess this is the kind of mystery that go along with a TR, just another one in a long list

 

Thank you again for all your helpful advice

 

Philippe-

[oil pressure over 100 psi]

James and Ctc, thank you for your prompt answers

 

I have unscrewed the valve totally, and gradually screwed it until oil pressure was on spec.

I let the engine idle for about 20minutes, pressure is steady.

 

The position of the valve screw is now quite different than what it used to be (maybe 1cm). This i can't quite understand. There must be some **** stuck somewhere. I'll be cruising tomorrow for a while and see if the pressure has dropped in some way. I will let you know

[oil pressure over 100 psi]

good evening,

 

last december I've been storing my TR4 for winter, at this time the engine worked fine with an oil pressure around 60

 

yesterday I started it for the first time since storage. At first the starter would have a hard time revving the engine, but after 1 minute or so it eventually started. After a few seconds I noticed the oil pressure gauge was over 100psi. I stopped the engine, restarted it a few times, but just after starting the needle jumps to over 100!

 

Today I have been swapping the gauge with another one, the reading is the same, so it's not coming from the gauge. I'm a bit puzzled since the engine worked fine before storing. One thing to notice is that this winter has been very cold (I'm in France), with 3 weeks at -15°C, although my other TR4 doesn't show these symptoms.

 

Do you have an explanation for this ? It seems to me that if the pressure is high, it means that some "stuff" is clogging the oil path somewhere, probably near the filter.

 

I will drain the oil and have a look at the filter, and change it if necessary. Any other advice ?

 

regards

 

Philippe-

[help me position TR4A rear suspension bump stop]

Hi all TRists,

 

I a currently converting a TR4 body for a TR4A IRS chassis. I am about to make and weld the rear bump stops in the wheel archs. Since I don't have a TR4A chassis with rear suspensions mounted, I need some clue to work out and position these bump stops.

 

I've made a little drawing which, I hope, will make things clear.

 

 

What I basically need to know is :

* is the bump stop facing the wheelarch center (as figured) or, if not, where is its axis ?

* what is the orientation of the bump stop from the vertical (angle "a" in degrees). From the pictures I've found it must between 10 to 30 degrees ?

* what is the length "d" of the bump stop ? And if I don't ask too much, its width at the base and at the end ?

 

If anyone of you IRS owners could make these measures for me, that would be of great help

 

best regards

 

Philippe-

[TR4 live axle chassis reinforcement]

thanks for your replies, I think from what you all said that I'll just repair it the way it was

cheers

Philippe-

[TR4 live axle chassis reinforcement]

Hi all,

 

Stripped chassis of my 62 TR4 revealed a badly repaired front suspension mounts (following front RH side crash). I had to cutoff all lower mounts, engine mount and even cut parts of the chassis and the turret beam where mounts had teared the underlying metal.

 

 

I'm now ready to weld new patches and required mounts & fulcrum pin. I know there are some reinforcement kits for TR4 IRS chassis, and I was wondering if some reinforcement exist and are advisable for the TR4 chassis ? It would be a pity to do all this welding to set back a weak structure

 

Thanks for your advices

 

Philippe-

[Leaf springs: lubricate?]

there are some grease specially for this kind of usage, but I can't remember the name. Copper grease, anyway, should do the job nicely.

 

Cheers

Philippe-

[sandblasting chassis]

from a test in Practical Classic's magazine, it seems that the best performer for dirty & rusted cavities is Dinitrol 3125 ?! But I still don't know the capability of this product to stop any progression on a well rusted area, nor do I guess at which point the chassis sould be considered as structurally weak because of inside creeping rust.

 

About my turrets, they seem to be quite OK, I'll have the chassis controlled on a jig asap.

 

cheers

Philippe-

[sandblasting chassis]

Hi all,

 

I'm about to have my chassis sandblasted, and I'm worried of the creeping rust inside the box sections, that I can see from every opening (from the rear end for instance). The sanblast will obviously only remove a very small part of it, so what's the use of a newly coated chassis if it continues to rot from the inside ?

 

Do you consider that some cavity wax is a good-enough protection, and more generally what are your opinion about this, is it a real concern ?

 

regards

 

Philippe-

[TR4 FRONT SUSPENSION ALIGNMENT]

I confirm that from the workshop manual all suspension mountings should be parralel and horizontal.

 

I have the same problem, but much worse ! When I stripped the chassis I realized the fulcrum pins were not aligned on the left side and I could see evidence of a badly repaired accident.

 

 

I now consider to have chassis geometry restored by a professionnal and the fulcrum pins removed and replaced by new ones correctly aligned and welded. The upper fulcrum pins will also be replaced.