tr4-thomas
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Posts posted by tr4-thomas
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Bob
thank you for your promt answer. Yes , very limited space, and of course you are right, once started there is no way back. So maybe i`m better without the pipe!
regards
thomas from germany
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hello forum,
i want to fit the original breather pipe to my earlty tr4 motor, now the question is: what is the best way to get the now fittet plug out of the motor-block ? motor is in the car.
regards
thomas from germany
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Graham,
there is nothing to be afraid of rebuilding this carbs by yourself, just be methodical. do not use anything abrasive for cleaning the soot off camber and pistons !
only problem is when the bushes are worn, reboring is nothing you can do without proper tools .
i rebuild my carbs last year, about one day of work, and now my car runs just fine with steady tickover and lower fuelconsumption.
regards
thomas from germany
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Eric,
the LED bulbs will not work with the original reostat dimmer!
regards
thomas
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Hi,
you can try M Segal(Motor Trimmings) Ltd. tel: 0161 834 7994
also some swimming-pool-companys use and produce vynid, some years ago i got some stuff from a german pool-company, great product .
regards
thomas from germay
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Rhodri,
i don't think it's possible that oil can drain back out of the pipe. pipe and guage is a closed system, so once filled with oil the oil will stay there.
it's easy and not that messy to bleed the system: get yourself some old clothes, start the engine, carfully loose the coupling on the back of the guage (only one turn is enough) . when oil is seeping out get it all thight again.
regards
thomas from germany
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hi John,
yes it has an impakt on the fuel gauge, as both gauges are powered from the same stabilisator. so if the fuel gauge reading is ok its unlikely that the stabilisator is defekt. its not easy to test the stabilisator if you still have the bimetall operated one, with "normal" multimeters you will never get a proper reading. with the elektronik stabis its easy: output has to be 10volts.
regards
thomas from germany
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hello ,
thank you for your very helpfull answers
kind regards
thomas from germany
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hello forum
i'm the owner of an early tr4 (ct131L). i have the original white dashboard but : the instrument panel (the piece with the small instruments and the ashtray ) is bare silver metal . al cars and pictures i have seen so far have a black panel. to me it seems to be original, not paint-stripped and definetely not home-made. so the question is, is this original for an early car and when did they change to the black panels??
kind regards
thoas from germany
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that's not uncommon with our modern car-batteries. often a plate in one cell tears, it mostly happens when you are driving, but you don't realise it becourse you get the power you need for driving from the alternator. after stopping the engine nothing will happen when you try to start again. sometimes an unnormal loss of water in only one cell indicates the soon coming death of your batterie.
regards
thomas from germany
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hi Pete
you can try this : warm up the housing for a while in boiling water. then take it out and spray ice-spray on the bulb. for a friend of mine this worked after a few trys.
regards
thomas from germany
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hi John
it is fittet in line with a "t-fitting" . the gauge is mounted behind the radio console .its not really good to see the reading when your driving, but for testing purposes its ok. a hose of about 1 meter is connecting the gauge to the t-fitting. there is also a self-closing valve mountet to the t-fitting, so its easy to undo the hose with the gauge. all this pieces are originally hydraulic-components.
hope that helps
regards
Thomas from germany
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hi John
my friends tr6 shows the same readings. the car is running very fine and smooth, so we think it is normal.
regards
Thomas from germany
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hi Brian
its definitly 10 volts ,i found it in my original triumph workshop-manual. if you can't get this ic in your elektronic-shop, you can find them at www.rs-components.de
regards
thomas
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hi Brian
i read it a few month ago in a german forum , they say it is 10volt. but i never mesured it myself.
be carefull, with a modern digital-multimeter you will not always get a proper reading.
regards
thomas from germany
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well, i forgot, if you still have positive ground in your car you need an 7910
regards
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Hello Bryan
you need about 10volts to operate the instruments, so you can operate with a 10 volt zener diode and a resistor. far better is to get a modern 10 volt stabiliser-ic (name is 7810 with 1.5 amp output), it looks like a transistor with 3 pins: input, ground, output. you can get this ic in every electronic-shop.
regards
thomas from germany
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hi Rudi
my friends and i use 80w90 GL4. never had any problems.
regards
thomas from germany
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yes, with the engine running, then it's like bleeding the brakes.
regards
thomas from germany
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Hi Clark,
I had the same problem when i bought my Tr4.
Driving it about 400 miles in one day cured the problem. Oil and other unburnt dirt sticks to the cylinderhead and gets then real hot when driving the car, so the fuel dont need a spark for ignition. when driving the car for a longer time the dirt will burn out (when you are lucky)
Regards
Thomas from germany
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yes , a condensor can make this trouble. we had a similar problem and it was the starter lock ( hm... is this the right word ?? well its the lock you put the key in to start the car) it wasn't working properly.
regards
thomas from germany
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hi Jamie
the 3B has its own diagram ,but there are only slightly differences to the 2/3 diagram. look :www.britishv8.org/tech/TR3-4Apdf
regards
thomas from germany
breather pipe
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Tony,
thank you for this very usefull information.
regards
thomas from germany