lord65
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Posts posted by lord65
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Just read the last thread with interest. My overdrive works beautifully until everything warms up. Then it fails to engage however much I flick the switch! Any pointers? Simon
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I am currently converting the old girl to a soft top as she really only gets used when the sun's out!
I was offered £900 for the rear screen and hardtop by the dealer that sold me the hoodframe and soft top without even seeing it.
So my question is - : what is the rear frame and glass, the hardtop, the surrey top and folding sticks worth on the secondhand market. I see there is one for 2K in TRaction this month!
Simon
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Anyone know the thread size of the hood frame fixing screws on a 4A?
Many thanks
Simon
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I've always had a loose pin in one of my boot hinges but i have now lost it altogether. Can't see it as a replacement part in the Moss catalogue, anyone know where I can get one or suggest a solution?
many thanks, Simon.
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I've just seen the earlier post on the same subject!
Still be grateful for a recommendation in Kent though.
Simon
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I have a hood frame in need of a clean up and a lick of paint. Is there an easy way to do it without spraying up all the moving joints?
Is fitting a soft top easy or would it be more sensible to get it done by a professional? Any recommendations in Kent?
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Brilliant!
Thank you very much
Simon
10/32 unfRoger
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I have had to drill out one of the bolts on the vent lid as the head sheared off while removing it.
Anyone know what the thread should be so I can find the right tap?
Simon
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I am in the process of restoring my windscreen frame and sadly have had to remove the original headlining in order to do a proper job. The original appears to be a black cloth based material, it tears like linen. As the Moss replacement part is a horrible shiny vinyl, does anyone know where I might find something suitable to replace this with?
Many thanks
Simon
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Just dismantled one axle and discovered a homemade cap under all the grease on the diff end of the sliding half shaft.
Moss do not sell anything like this and I wondered whether it needs one to stop all the grease being pushed or washed out?
Any thoughts?
Simon
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Finally managed to get hub and axle out.
What should the hub feel like. Is it supposed to turn silkily or should I expect it to be ever so slightly notchy?
Simon
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Could I just check with you all what I need to buy in order to change from a surrey top to a soft top?
A hood frame - 4a ones like hens teeth, what else does the job?
A soft top - best buy?
What else do I need to complete the job and can I still change back to a surrey if desired?
Many thanks
Simon
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OK, according to the technicalities CDrom, all I have to do is undo the four nuts on the drive flange to disconnect from the diff and then the six nuts holding the hub into the swinging arm before pulling the whole thing out for inspection.
Wrong! Nothing moves. Am I missing something...help!
How much lateral play should there be on the sliding joint? Mine slides nicely but appears very dry and loose.
All advice welcomed
Simon
Many thanks for the link Ivor, I read the contents with my heart in my mouth! Deep joy ahead.
Simon
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OK, according to the technicalities CDrom, all I have to do is undo the four nuts on the drive flange to disconnect from the diff and then the six nuts holding the hub into the swinging arm before pulling the whole thing out for inspection.
Wrong! Nothing moves. Am I missing something...help!
How much lateral play should there be on the sliding joint? Mine slides nicely but appears very dry and loose.
All advice welcomed
Simon
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Ignore all that. I've just found the answers to all my questions on the "Technicalities" CD Rom.
Rubber gloves on...I'm going in!
Simon
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Help!
Discovered a lot of play in the sliding part of the nearside rear axle. Hopefully this is what's causing all the noise!
I get a bit confused with all the names of parts as the exploded diagram looks far too long!
Qustion 1 - how do I remove it to examine it? Can I unbolt it from the diff drive flange? Does it easily pull through the swinging arm as I only have basic spanners and sockets etc.
Question 2 - can i replace bits of it or do I have to buy a complete axle, hub etc.
Many thanks in advance for any advice
Simon Lord
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I'm thinking of tidying up my wires this winter and have been reading up on old articles about cleaning up painted wire wheels and tightening spokes.
One of my wheels has a broken spoke which I am told is a quick fix.
Is it as easy as it sounds? I never had much luck with bicycle wheels and spoke keys!
Can anyone recommend a wire wheel specialist in the south east (I'm in Kent)?
Does anyone have any experience of paint stripping wires or blasting them?
All advice gratefully received!
Simon
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I had a reconditioned diff put on about 2 years ago when I was forced into having a new chassis.
As it was all done for me by one of the leading TR garages I didn't question the noise as i assumed it was all new and needed to bed in.
I find now that the noise hasn't eased up and either the diff or the prop shaft sound like a thrashing ships propellor when the car is in motion.
Anyone got any ideas? Should I be worried?!
Many thanks
Simon
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Those of you that used seatbelts, what did you use as a backrest against the tank board?
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Has anybody successfully fitted a child seat in the back of a 4a?
I have a print out from the register but some of the seats mentioned are hard to find, so I can only assume that it is quite old info.
I'm thinking that it might be easier to fit a rally style harness in the back with some sort of back support against the petrol tank. I have a hard rear screen so the headroom is slightly reduced.
Anyone got any ideas about fixing points etc. I want to try and keep it simple!
Many thanks
Simon Lord
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I'm about to prime and paint my TR4a chassis. Does anyone know roughly what the area is and how much paint I will need?
I don't want to end up with gallons of unused expensive paint!
Many thanks
Simon Lord
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Chassis dimensions are indeed in the original manual for TR4/4A and reprints are readily available for about £30. There is so much info in there that it's probably a good investment even if you have already found the chassis dims.
I've just checked and Moss are listing the manual as "NLS" but Revingtons may still have them. If you get stuck and can't find one I could copy a few pages from mine - PM me if that's any help.
All the best,
CP62
Many thanks for all your input. I do have a workshop manual but putting all the data into the computer for a modern jig is going to be time consuming and consequently expensive. I was hoping thay someone might have already done it and had the data to hand on a disc?
Simon
SimonIf its a rotten chassis you are on a loser all the way. Even if you replace the rotten bits the inside of the chassis elsewhere is likely to be going the same way. Stop now and dont waste anymore money!
The 4a chassis tends to be a worse proposition for rust that the TR4 due to the complexity and also it flesex much more, so a rusty / thin one will not help your car handle.
If you can I would source another good used chassis if I were you - I bought a TR4 chassis from Walter Petchey wpetchey@yahoo.co.uk or (01376) 342724 so he may be worth talking to. I dont know if he has one now but he certainly had an excellent ex USA one some months ago.
Regards
Tony
Unfortunately, secondhand chassis don't come with guarantees! Why is any chassis parted from its body, has it been in a shunt, is it straight? This is the problem I face.
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I am trying to get my 4a back on the road on a limited budget, the chassis is diagnosed as rotten!
I bought a secondhand chassis which is receiving mixed reviews! One "specialist" told me it was a load of rubbish and cheaper in the long term to buy a new one! A local classic car professional who has done TR's agreed it needed a little work but didn't look too bad. My local garage which repairs modern chassis thought it was OK and that original chassis always had some tolerance in them.
I can't afford to make this a concours car and had hoped to push and pull it on a jig, get a bit of welding done and shotblast it for£1000 tops, but there is no point in me pursuing this project if I'm putting a bent rotten chassis under my car so where do I go next?
Does anyone have any chassis data to set it up on a modern pulling jig? That could save me a lot of time and money!
Many thanks
Simon Lord
How much to buy a surrey?
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi all, if I wanted to convert to a surrey top, how much should I have to pay for a rear screen and hardtop (assuming i can find one?)
Many thanks
Simon