[Oil filter woes]

Thanks for that but it definately is coming from the 'open' end where it is supposed to seal against the Purolator head - presumably leaking at the gasket. The thing is it was not just dripping but really flowing & I'm just wondering if, even though it was tight, if somehow the canister face was not sitting against the gasket around all of the canister perimeter. However you look at it, it is a poor design

 

Take the filter canister off and just check that there are no remnants of an old gasket still attached to the filter head, this would stop you getting a good seal with the new gasket. When you put the filter canister back on align it at the top as you tighten the bolt.

[Oil filter woes]

Yet again, I've done an oil change only to have the sump discharge it's contents on my drive. I'm still using the original cartridge type filter - I have a purolit head casting - should I be using the thick or the thin gasket?

Also, would a spin-on conversion make a big difference?

 

Check that the bottom part of the filter canister where the long bolt passes through is flat, this area can become deformed due to over tightening of the bolt and you end up with a slight leak. The solution is to dismantle the filter canister from the long bolt then, on a flat surface tap out the bottom part of the canister, I've used a long 1/2" socket extension for this, fit a new rubber washer around the long bolt plus a bit of sealant, then reassemble.

[low level seats TR4a]

Hi

 

i am a bit tall for my 4a, and feel i have to bend down to look out of the screen. I would also like some head rests, currently if I push my head back it hits on the roll bar, which is a bit dangerous.

 

I could do with some bucket seats with headrests which sit a bit lower than standard.

 

I don't want to pay £1000, as i like the originals for shows etc, but some cheap ish ones for driving. Second hand even.

 

Any offers? Or what should I use?

 

Thanks

 

 

Nic

 

Nic, I have a pair of bucket seats that were fitted to my 3A, they are black vinyl with white piping and have headrests, the centre section (the part you sit on) is in black corduroy, they are good quality but the only downside is the vinyl pattern is slightly different on each seat, I bought them from the same supplier 1 year apart. If you are interested I can send you some photos.

 

Regards

Martin

[Fitting wider wires and tyres?]

Excellent! Thanks for that. It is encouraging to hear from someone else with first hand experience, especially as your tyres are even wider. Of course tyre type also has some affect, I have a Lotus seven type car on which the tyres were close but cleared the rear arches until I fitted new Pirelli rubber. Now they rub.

 

What tyres are you using?

 

I've used a few different types over the years, Yokohama A008R 195/60 15, Pirelli P6000 195/65 15 and at the moment I have Dunlop SP9 195/65 15. All fit no trouble.

[Fitting wider wires and tyres?]

Hi All,

 

I am planning on fitting a set of wires from a TR4, shod with 185/70/15 tyres, to my TR3a. I have been reliably informed (thanks Paul) that I need to modify the return edge of the rear arches but the fronts will be just fine. I know that the wheels will not fit in the spare wheel bay but I will retain one of the original wires as a spare.

 

Has anyone done this mod to the rear arches and able to offer any advice? How much of the return edge needs modifying, by how much and what is the safest way to do it without deforming the outer wing?

 

Many thanks, Ian

 

I have 195/65/15 tyres fitted to my 3A on 72 spoke wires. After a few months of driving I noted where the rear tyres were rubing on the rear wheelarchs, I then ground down the flange on the wing with an anglegrinder to suit. You may find, like I did that it's only the top part of the rear wheelarch that is a problem.

 

Regards

[SU needles]

Monty, obvioulsy you want to run on the same needles in both carbs, looking at an SU needle chart there is not a lot of difference between a TR & TW needle, so choose one or the other and start with that. My 3A has similar mods to yours and I run it on TW needles, which I think may be a tad to lean.

 

When you do your tuning first check that the fuel level in both float chambers are at the correct height, then measure the distance of the main jet down from the bridge piece in the carb and make them both the same, I use a vernier caliper with a depth gauge for this, I've found that getting this height the same on both carbs gives you a good strating point to work from, then use the carb balancer. Give the car a run to see how it feels and then recheck the plugs.

[Steering rack conversion]

I have tried the screwdriver trick already, I'll give it another go, didn't want to force it too much just in case I cracked the uj.

Les, I'll check in the paperwork that came with rack and got back to you.

[Steering rack conversion]

I'm fitting a Moss rack and pinion conversion to my split column 3A, I have a problem fitting the supplied upper universal joint (TR7 I think) to the existing column, the bore of the uj seems much to small for the diameter of the shaft, so far I have been unable to connect the two, has any body else had the same problem with the Moss conversion. Have tried speaking to Moss but Pete Cox who does all the technical stuff is not in till tomorrow.

[Thermo switch]

I want to replacing my existing kenlow thermo fan switch (packed up years ago), it's the type that goes in the top hose, with a type that fits into the steel tube between to two bottom hoses. I had a look in the Moss catalogue and their thermo switches come in several different flavours, I would be interested if anyone can give me some advice on which one is best to use, at present I'm running with a 82deg thermostat.