MCOOPER53
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Posts posted by MCOOPER53
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Tom,
First off forget about those dots as they only apply to the original factory spec cam.
This is how I set the cam on my 3A, the engine was out of the car btw. I measured the circumferance of the flywheel, in milimeres, divided that figure by 360 them multiplied that by the angle stated for the cam, in yourcase it would 110. That gave me a distance in millimetres I needed to measure around the flywheel, the flywheel has a factory scribbed line on it for TDC, so I measued away from that. I attached a pointer to the block and aligned it with factory scribbed line then rotated the flywheel till the mark I made aligned with the pointer on the block, the crankshaft is now in the correct position. You know need to set the camshaft so you have maximum lift on the inlet lobe on number one cylinder, use a dial gauge for this, when that is done you can attach timing chain and wheels.
Martin
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I fitted the Moss conversion kit to my 3A, easy to fit, purchased when they had a discount offer. The horn is now operated from a button on the dash part number 080808 and the indicators from a stalk clamped to the steering column part number 080904, both form Auto Electrical Supplies.
Martin
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Rod/Stan,
The core plug on my 3A was less than a couple of millimetres thick due to corrosion and hence the leak. So it was easy to lever out using my rather crude method I must admit.
Martin
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Rod,
Got the core plugs from Moss, as Stan says they come on a stick of five. I used some old green Hermatite sealer as it was the only stuff I had to hand, I think it sets hard.
Martin
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Rod,
Yes you can replace the core plug with the head still in place, did it the other week on my 3A. Like you I noticed water around the edge of the core plug when adjusting the tappets. It's easy to replace, just bash out the old one with a screwdriver, clean out the edges of the hole, cut a slot in the top of the new core plug so you can use a screwdrive to fit it and use plenty of sealant.
Martin
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My 3A ran fine but suffered with a massive misfire at speed, I discovered that the fuel pipe directly below the tank (u-bend bit) was clogged with crud causing fuel starvation. Worth a try.
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Steve,
With the original heater it's worth spending a little time to give them a good clean as they are not as bad as some people imagine. I spent an evening on the one out of my 3A, which was half full of crud, to good effect.
Martin
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John,
I removed the bearing on my 3A by first breaking off the top of the needle roller case with a suitable chisel and then with a small screwdrive filed to a point I hammered this between the bearing case and the input shaft, this split the bearing casing and could then be pulled out with pliers. Not very elegant I know, but it worked.
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I need to replace the spring on the brass coolant drain tap on my 3A's engine. Are they available anywhere?
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I installed one of the old liners and it was a tight fit in the block. So I then checked the spigot diameter on the new liner and found it was about 2 thou smaller then the original liner. I'm going to return all four liners.
Martin
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I'm replacing the liners on my 3A and I note that one of the liners, number 4, slotted straight in, the others needed hand presssure to seat, it can also be rocked from side to side. Is this a problem? Any thoughts?
Martin
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Dave,
I'm just in the process of re-assembling the front suspension on my 3A, replacing the inner bushes only, but when putting it back together I did notice some lateral movement on VL/trunnion, but when the suspension was fully assembly this movement had gone. It must be due to the top wishbone assembly holding the VL in position. I think in an ideal world there would be lateral movement between VL/trunnion, but don't forget that some of these parts have seen considerable mileage.
I hope this helps.
Martin
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Neil,
Like you I considered replacing the original heater fitted to my 3A with the Clayton type and like you I baulked at the cost. So I thought I would have nothing to loose by trying to refurbish what I had and I have to say I was not disappointed. What I found with my unit was that about the bottom third of the heater element was clogged with silt. So I spent a couple of evenings cleaning/flushing it out with welding wire and Cillit Bang, as a test of how I was doing I would fill the heater with hot water and check by hand to feel if the lower elements were getting warm. I kept repeating this cleaning/flushing process until I was happy that majority of the tubes were clear.
I must say that my heater was transformed, so despite what has been said it is worth by spending a little time and effort before splashing out on a new heater.
Martin
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Kevin,
I had a similar problem on my Healey 3000. I ended up having to put a file to the slot in the points base plate.
Best of Luck
Martin
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My TR3A, TS78376, has a build date of Wednesday 6th July 1960. This is from the production records supplied by Bill Piggott.
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Mike,
My car is a 1960 3A which must have the same calipers as yours.
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Mike,
I did the same mod to my 3A and I fixed the flexible hose to the under side of the chassis cross tube bracket.
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Peter, following on from Littlejim's crud in fuel tank. Check the U-bend part of the fuel line directly under the tank, on my car it was partly blocked, which would result in a massive missfire at speed. I used a pipe cleaning brush to clear it.
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The following is from the Instruction Book for the TR3, sixth edition.
REAR ROAD SPRINGS
Paint over the spring blades with old rear axle or engine oil, particularly
around the blade tips and clips. Avoid lubricating the rubber bushes which
are fitted in all the rear spring eyes.
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For such a simple car the scuttle lid lifting mechanism is fiendishly complicated.
I managed to removal it all but I had to cut the heads of the two fixing screws at the front as they were rusted solid, nothing new there then. I've printed off your reassembly instructions and will keep them safe as I know when the time comes to refit it all my mind will be a total blank as to how it all fits back together.
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What's the process for removing the scuttle vent lid and it's attached operating mechanism, or is it too much trouble for what it's worth? I want to replace the broken operating rod and respray the scuttle area.
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Thats about right for an old SU pump, once they have filled the float chambers then the back pressure should stop them running on. New ones should run up and stop with just one click now and then. You could check delivery rate by removing feed line at the carb and directing it into a can. (No smoking and extinguisher handy by) I assume you have checked the carbs over to ensure that the fuel is getting into the jets from the bowls as I have known the small orifice (ooer missus
)between to get blocked with silt from standing.
Stuart
The SU pump on one of my cars has a filter on the suction side and I've had this block with crud from the fuel tank in the past, so it's worth checking.
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Hi all,
My recently purchase Peerless Ph2 is misfiring badly. So far, I've replaced the rotor arm, condenser, coil, points, plugs and leads, all to no avail.
The car won't rev above 3500rpm and gets to the stage where it'll almost cut out.
Any ideas, chaps?!
Rgds
My 3A had a blocked fuel line which would cause a massive misfire when underload.
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The following is from the TR3 Instruction Book.
Oil Pressure Gauge. Indicates pressure of oil at the bearings.
The gauge should read 70 lb./sq. in. minimum when the car is travelling
at normal speeds and the oil is hot.
Low pressure may be registered when the engine is idling or running at
low speeds ; this is quite normal.
Protek Rack and pinion conversion
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Can you not just ask Protek Engineering or have they gone out of business?