[Hello from me - BaulyCars]

coincidentally I stumbled across your YouTube channel the other day. As a TR6 owner and a recent visitor to Dubai it caught my eye! Good luck with the new business.

[problem with left indicator]

Having resolved my recent TR6 ignition problems I'm now turning to other issues. For a while now I have an intermittent problem that my left indicator stays on (flashing) even when the stalk automatically cancels or is manually moved back to the centre position. The right indicator seems fine. When it does this the only way to get it to stop is to move the stalk to activate the right indicator. That seems to stop the left indicator from flashing.

I've removed the cover around the indicators/overdrive stalks but there is no slack in the wire to the indicator so I can't pull out the mechanism any more than in the photo below.

Any ideas what could be causing this or how to solve it? Many thanks.

Matt

 

[No spark, advice appreciated]

She's now running!

I was about to try running a feed directly from the battery to the magnetronic ignition but before I did that I thought I would just check one more time that I definitely wasnt getting a spark after fitting the new coil, leads and terminals. I still didn't get a spark from the plugs but I did now get one from the king lead from the coil. This morning when I reported that it still wasnt working after changing these parts I was in a bit of a hurry and only checked for a spark at the plugs. So this was progress and suggested that I had fixed one problem (probably the coil) as I previously wasn't getting a spark from the king lead from the old coil.

So I tried a different new rotor arm  - visibly identical to the other one I'd tried and to my old one which was cracked - and she fired up! I've just been for a quick spin and she seems to be running perfectly.

It seems therefore that I had a problem with my coil (or possibly HT leads but they did look in fairly good condition) *and* with the new rotor arm that I'd fitted to replace the old one. Alternatively, there's a dodgy connection somewhere that is temporarily working after all the fiddling around that I've done!

Given that my car is ballasted the magnetronic ignition has been wired incorrectly as Steve above said, but it seems that isn't the problem on this occasion. But it is something I'll have to sort out.

On the plus side I now have a much better understanding of the TR6 ignition system so every cloud....

Many thanks for all the suggestions, they've been very helpful.

Matt

 

[No spark, advice appreciated]

8 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Keep in mind that when you want to stop the engine with a direct coil feed from the battery the only way is to pull the wire off the coil/battery.  If you just stall the engine, the coil is still powered.
 

good point Peter, thanks. That is a problem I would love to have   

[No spark, advice appreciated]

Thanks TRRob and RobH.

Yes from the lumenition wiring diagram below it does seem as though my magnetronic unit was wired incorrectly if my car is ballasted. I'm assuming my car is ballasted since the resistance from the old coil is 1.5 ohms. Since this seemed to work perfectly until very recently can I therefore assume that it is ballasted?

Later today I will try to run a live feed from the battery rather than the coil, though as Rob says this shouldn't cause a lack of spark when cranking the engine. But maybe long term use at reduced voltage could have damaged the magnetronic unit.

 

[No spark, advice appreciated]

thanks Steve that's interesting. Is that because CR cars are ballasted? It seems strange how it would run perfectly for the 12 months I've had it (and a couple of years prior to that when the magentronic was fitted) and then stop so suddenly. Did you have a similar issue then? Presumably I could take a feed directly from the +ve battery terminal to test it?

[No spark, advice appreciated]

Hi Steve, it is getting its feed from the coil yes. 

By way of update, I have now changed the coil and the HT leads and still no spark....which is a bit frustrating to say the least. So that's the rotor arm, HT leads and coil all renewed and I've put new spade terminals on the 3 wires to the coil.

This only seems to leave the magnetronic module so I think I'll have to change that next. 

[No spark, advice appreciated]

thanks Roy and Steve for further suggestions.

The new rotor arm is identical to the old one (it's one of the black ones). I don't think the lumenition module has been moved in any way.

I'm in Leicestershire, but I think my next step is to buy a new coil and set of HT leads. I'm unsure when they were last changed (I've only had the car just under a year) and the coil doesn't look very recent. I haven't physically removed the coil to see if I can feel fluid in it but I'll try that at the weekend. I did measure the resistance a few days ago and from memory it was around 1.5 Ohms. I think that suggests my car is ballasted?

I did remove a plug and there is no spark at all when the engine is cranked. 

 

[No spark, advice appreciated]

I think all leads and the dizzy cap are on correctly. I've had them all on and off multiple times and have tripled checked everything.

I didn't mention but I have changed the rotor arm as the old one was cracked. I had assumed that was the source of the problem but sadly not. The spring and contact in the dizzy cap appear correct though it is difficult to tell if it is actually making contact with the rotor arm once the cap is on.

[No spark, advice appreciated]

ah, yes that makes more sense. I've just tried that and it read around 1.5V once the ignition was on and the engine wasn't cranking (so not zero) but once it was cranking this went up and down rapidly. So that would suggest the ignition module is doing it's job then I guess. I think I need to rule out the coil and the king lead then as you suggest. 

Thanks again,

Matt

[No spark, advice appreciated]

Many thanks Rob. I have only a digital voltmeter. I've just disconnected the black wire from the negative terminal on my coil and then touched one prong of my voltmeter to the terminal and the other to the engine block. It read 12V with the ignition on which dropped to 7 something, and stayed at 7 something, when the engine was cranking. There was no pulsing but have I tested that correctly?

Matt

 

 

 

[No spark, advice appreciated]

Hello,

I recently noticed my TR6 was running a bit 'rough' with some loss of power. It eventually got worse and cut out on me though I managed to re-start and get home. I checked the plugs and injectors and they were broadly OK though one injector was a bit of a dribble to start with but soon improved after I pulled the nipple. I then tested the car again and all seemed fine for 15 mins or so, it was running perfectly but it started to cut out when I pulled up at junctions. It re-started a few times but then refused to and I was towed home.

The engine turns over but will not start and I find that there is no spark at the plugs. The HT lead from the coil to the centre of the distributor also does not produce a spark but there is power at both + and - terminals on the coil. To my mind this indicates a problem with the distributor or the wiring from coil to distributor. Is that a reasonble conclusion or am I missing something? It has the lumenition magnetronic ignition fitted so I wonder if that module could that have failed? 

Any thoughts appreciated and I've attached a few photos of my setup.

Please be gentle in terms of advice...I'm at the beginner end of the spectrum though learning fast due to endless problems with this car

thanks, Matt 

1973 TR6 CR 

[fuel pump leak]

thanks for the comments and suggestions. TRGB are sending me some fuel pipe so this is hopefully a job for the weekend.

[fuel pump leak]

Hello,

I've recently noticed a smell of petrol in my TR6 (CR PI) and today found that a connection to my fuel pump was leaking. In the photo below you may just make out a fine jet of fuel which I've circled in yellow, coming from the top of the short black connecting hose.

I'm afraid I'm not familiar with the fuel pump as it's not something I've had to tackle before, but can I simply remove the short black connecting hose and replace it? Is there likely to be pressure in the pipe (obviously the fuel pump will be off)? 

From what I can understand the black cylinder is the pump and the silver cylinder is the filter so what's the blue cylinder? An in-line fuel filter?

It seems this car has had a history of leaking pumps in the past given the state of the paintwork around the pump but all was definitely dry down there quite recently.

Sorry for the basic questions - thanks for any help offered.

Matt

 

[front wheels (brakes?) smoking]

I had to wait a while to get a mechanic to look at it but the problem was the master cylinder pushrod. He's adjusted it slightly and bled the brakes and he's confident that's where the problem was. He tested the car but I'll try it on the motorway soon to be fully sure the problem's gone. 

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. It's fair to say I know a lot more about TR6 brakes than I did a few weeks ago!

Matt

[front wheels (brakes?) smoking]

Thanks Andy, though the pads aren't new so I don't think it's a case of them bedding in as such. I took it for a short drive yesterday and after driving at 50mph for a couple of minutes I started to smell burning so there's something wrong with the set-up I think. It's now booked in with a local mechanic for mid July so hopefully they can find the problem.

Matt

[front wheels (brakes?) smoking]

thanks both. 

Andy, yes the disc doesn't turn freely without the wheels fitted but the wheel does turn more freely once fitted.

[front wheels (brakes?) smoking]

Thanks Peter and Andy.

Andy, I didn't fit these calipers and pads so I can't be certain that they are the right type. I was told the calipers aren't original and are from Rimmer Bros.

The discs seems to be good as far as I can tell, with no obvious ridges or imperfections.

I suspect I didn't push the pistons back as far as I needed to when refitting the calipers. But I think I would have had to open the bleed screw to do this which I didn't do.

Matt

 

 

[front wheels (brakes?) smoking]

Many thanks for the further comments and suggestions.

I finally had some spare time to work on my TR6 today. I thought I'd start by changing the wheel bearings and once they're done will start to investigate the brakes.

All went fine with the wheel bearings but I had real trouble re-attaching the brake calipers as the gap between the brake pads was almost too narrow to fit over the brake disk. It took a lot of fiddling and eventually I managed to get them over the disks and re-attached. The disk just about spins but certainly doesn't spin freely.

Is that normal or is this the cause of my brake overheating problems? I have no experience of working on brakes unfortunately so I just don't know how 'tight' the caliper/pads should be when you fit them over the disk. But to my untrained eye there seems very little clearance between pad and disk so any expansion in heat will presumably lead to the brakes binding?

Matt

 

[front wheels (brakes?) smoking]

thanks for the further comments. I think my first job is to replace the front wheel bearings. I then need to read up on the brake system and perhaps try adjusting the pushrod.

Stuart, unfortunately I don't what brake fluid I'm using as it was in the car when I bought it earlier this year.

Matt

[front wheels (brakes?) smoking]

Thanks Peter and Andy.

When I said the calipers were touching the disc I meant to say the pads. There is light contact on the disc but I suspect that is fairly normal?

Yes, it does seem as though something expanded with the heat of cruising at 60mph+ and caused both brakes to lock on. 

Lots to think about, thanks for your comments.

Matt

[front wheels (brakes?) smoking]

Hello,

I have a 1973 CR TR6 which I've owned for a few months. It's in good condition and has been well maintained. Yesterday I took it on the motorway for the first time and after cruising at 60-65 mph for around 15 miles I started to notice I was losing power and could smell burning. Within a few minutes I had to pull on to the hard shoulder. When I came to a stop the engine revved fine so there was no loss of engine power. When I got out both front wheels were smoking heavily and did so for 10 mins or more. After a few mins liquid grease started running from the hub of one of the front wheels.

I'm guessing that the brake callipers (and/or the brake disc) had swelled in the heat and the brakes were effectively locked on? And the heat of it all liquified the grease in the bearings? Does this sound the likeliest explanation?

This morning I took one of the front wheels off and all looked OK apart from a burning smell (see photo). I did notice that when I turn the brake disc the calipers are touching against it. Is that normal or should there be more clearance?

Any thoughts, solutions appreciated.

Matt