[Original Steering wheel renovation]

Thanks for good advice.

 

I will give it a try myself and see how it goes.

[Original Steering wheel renovation]

Fellow club members.

 

On "daily" use my TR4A is dressed in period alu rims , 195 tires and a 14" MotoLita steering wheel.

But on special occations we dress upp with original steel disk wheels, original dimension rubber, and we put on the original TR4A steering wheel.

 

The wheels an tires are alongside the rest of the ca presentable which cannot be said about the steering wheel.

The steering wheel is not falling apart but it is not mint condition.

 

Anyone know of a specialist that they can recommend for renovation of my original steering wheel.

I am from scandinavia and need to ship it so the company does not need to be UK based.

 

Regards

Eivin

[Heavy clutch pedal]

No, did not resolve it.

 

Still very heavty clutch.

The return of the pedal is OK, so no colapsing hose. New steel braided hose.

 

The returnspring is in place ( missing the small piece at the GB end but make no difference.

The action span is short ( eg. the clutch is very "digital" , ON/OFF) very difficult to controll start from standstill)

So i dont know. it seems like a hydraulic problem , so a larger slave or a smaller pump is the answer. But th slave from moss is 7/8" and not 1" as tec. support indicates.

 

The clutch is brand new ( B&, the gearbox is newly renovated.

The only thing i can think of that is not as in the book is that the rod going trough the gearbox where the fork and lever is attached do not have a greasing niple..... but it was lubricated when the gearbox went inn. New trow-out bearin as well. Yes, the fork pinns are in the groove in the bearing.

So i will leave it over the summer and return the car to the shop that did the gearbox. ( i am not happy with the job , 3.gear syncro is not good and there are whining noises when retarding.

 

Another thing... i have been kicking myself hard today.

The engine have had veeery bad power since installing new exhaust, and stalling when pushed hard on high revs.

I hav tried ignition components switch. needles. renovated carbs ,,, you name it. Then i notice some leakage between manifoil and first exhaust pipe, making a little noise. I tried to tighten, but no response. So i dismantlled that joint and removed the gasket..... gues what.... i had placed the gasket 90 deg wrong so that the exhaust was almost blocked. No wonder the car was not performing... after remounting the right way the car was totally transformed and i got the power back. Silly me. But the clutch is still just as hard.

Eivin

[Heavy clutch pedal]

I have tried it all, and still the same result.

 

Odered a new slave cyl. from moss. Part no.516788 as recommended from tec. support. Well it is the same 7/8 in. inner diameter and thus exactly the same as the one on the car.

The hydr. hose is replaced. ( no fault with the old one)

The slave cyl. position is corect. with bleed niple upwards.

 

Gearbox is original just renovaqted (profesionally). clutch and bearing is new.

 

This is driving me mad.

 

Regards

Eivin

[Heavy clutch pedal]

I got this answer from Tec. support.

New 1" slave cyl. is ordered and and i expect my left leg to be the same size as my right within reasonable time.

 

Thanks anyway for many good sugestions.

 

Eivin

 

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Eivin Hansen writes from Norway about an excessively heavy clutch on his TR4A. However, he gives his master cylinder diameter as ¾ inch (which is correct) and his slave cylinder diameter as 7/8 inch which is wrong. The TR3, 4, and 4A were all fitted with 1.0 inch diameter slave cylinders as original equipment. The area of the piston in the 7/8 inch cylinder is only 49/64 of the area of the correct 1.0 inch cylinder so the effect will be considerable. Increased pedal pressure will be inevitable and failure of the infamous clutch fork pin can result from excessive travel of the clutch.

 

Eiven asks about part numbers for the various hydraulic components. The correct clutch slave cylinder was originally Stanpart 114531 but this was changed several times ending up as 516788 and the Girling part number was 3010320W (later became 64068867) with Service Kit SP 2036 (later became SP2487).

 

Unfortunately the incorrect 7/8 inch cylinders were much more widely used (on dozens of different vehicle models) whereas the 1.0 inch was comparatively rare (but it was fitted to the GT6, if that helps!).

 

Eiven also asks about substituting the correct 0.75 inch clutch master cylinder for a 0.70 inch one as fitted to the brakes on the 4A (this was a factory change from the 0.75 inch brake master cylinder used on the TR3 & 4). The equivalent master cylinder for the clutch, but 0.7 inch rather than the factory-fitted 0.75 inch, was Girling 64067616 fitted to a number of 1960’s cars including Riley 4/72, Morris Oxford, MG Magnette, Humber Hawk etc.

 

There is nothing to prevent this being done, and it slightly lightens the clutch action at the expense of some lost travel. Whether the lost travel will be a problem varies between individual vehicles and as it is a departure from the original specification Eiven will need to exercise his own judgement..

 

The best advice would be to get the correct 1.0 inch slave cylinder fitted first and then contemplate a master cylinder change as a later possibility.

 

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[Heavy clutch pedal]

Felow TR owners.

 

On my TR4A i have been troubled with very heavy clutch pedal pressure. To the extent that the wear on push rod, clevis pin and other mec. parts are extensive. Also the clutchpedal action travel is also very small.

PS: the slave push rod is connected to the middle hole in the clutch arm.

 

This winter i reconditioned the pedal mechanics, gearbox and replaced the clutch at the same time with a Borg&Becker type. All mechanical parts move freely and smooth.

Things did not improve so the hydraulics is the next target.

 

Simple hydraulic laws indicate that small diameter pump and/or larger diameter slave cyl. will reduce pressure and reduce slave pushrod travel thus increasing the action travel on the pedal.

 

The pump i have installed is stamped 3/4 and control measurment confirmn a .75" pump diameter.

The slave i have installed is unmarked but is measurd to 7/8" (.875"/22.3mm) this is in accordance to Moss correct. None of my books on TR's mention slave cyl. diameter.

 

So i reconditioned the pump and the slave cyl.

When reconditioning the slave. the replacement kit(moss no. 505704) did not fit, it is to big (or i have a to small diameter slave) if this is true this also confirm my suspicion above on wrong diameter on either pump or slave.

 

So i need your advice on:

 

Is a 0.75" clutch pump correct?

Can i fit a 0.7" pump? (same diameter as brakes) (any part no.?)

Is my 7/8 slave cyl. correct?

Is there a larger bore replacement available ( any part no.)?

 

Regards

Eivin

Norway

[Koni adjustment]

And then we are on to the discussion on preference to SPAX or KONI.

 

If you want to adjust your shockers with ease then Spax are the ones you want. They have the advantage of on-car adjustment (with a little fideling if the spring is blocking your access)

 

Then again if you feel the need for adjustable shocks you probably are in the category that care for the setup of your little sportscar. The difference in damping action should be more of an issue than how to adjust them.

 

I have Spax on my IRS (converted to modern dampers aft)which i need to replace since at least one (Aft Left) is worn out.  I am concidering Koni since i have heard that the action is very different to Spax.

 

My source (racing and rallying for 40+ years) recomend Koni for fast road and normal use since thay have a smother and gentler damping on the compression stroke and are harder on the extraction in comparison to Spax. When adjusting the Konis harder they still start the compression more softly than spax which are dead hard at the start of the stroke.

 

The Spax are to hard to fast and are thus very hard on the fragile suspension mounting bridge aft and the turret front. I have cracks all over the aft suspension bridge.

 

So if you need F1 action hard cornering on track, the recomendation is Spax. Else ... use Koni.

 

Note that i have not experimented alot with Koni only with my worn out Spax so this analysis is based on what i have heard from others.

 

Then there is the question of springs. I guess that harder and lowered springs may result in shorter action and this wil have an impact on the dampers, in favour of Spax.

 

So i am really i doubt of what setup to choose. I do want harder springs but not higher ride height, so they must be lowered, then i have a feeling that Koni is the choice.

 

Happy motoring.

 

Eivin