jemgee
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Posts posted by jemgee
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I bought the Rimmer Spax front and rear package with adjustable rear shocks and uprated springs all round and fitted with polybush seatings. Seems OK to me
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After trying to clean the black 'fuel' front panel unsucessfully with meths on a cotton bud (and being ham fisted) I have decided to bite the bullet. Gauge Shop £250 full recon for all 4 gauges and the speedo and rev counter. Should be back in 10 days.
Incidentally he confirmed that the original ammeter was made by Lucas and the other 3 gauges Smiths - the usual deal in the 60's ie Lucas wouldn't stray into Smith's territory and vice versa.
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Thanks Stuart - I was thinking on the same lines. Incidentally besides supplying the O Rings John Chadwick from Classic Bezels sent FOC about a 2 ft length of small diameter sponge rubber. He has just confirmed it can be used for just the purpose of the dum dum. Good man - can recommend his service.
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Just started the gauge refurb. Struggled to get the first bezel off - it would not twist off so had to bend 2 tabs away. I got the O rings from Classic bezels but now am puzzled what to use instead of the hard set black gunge inside the bezel?? Any advice please!
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Seem to remember in the old days when you bought new points (always a last step after dressing the pits and pimples off on a carborundum stone) they used to include a small plastic tit containing a dab of High melting point grease. Mind you the cam follower was a light brown composition material not the tough plastic used these days.
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After cleaning with brass spark plug brush I use a wedge of fine wet and dry paper to clean the gap between the electrodes, set the gap and then finally use petrol to wash out and clean the insulator and tweak the terminal screw tight (gently) with pliers
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Sounds like your clutch is not doing anything. If you take plugs out and put in neutral and then in gear and rock car back and forth you could see if propshaft is moving. If in neutral and propshaft moves then its likely to need clutch and gearbox attention. Also see FAQ's on ways (fairly brutal) to free jammed clutch
Suggestions from past answers on the TR7/8 forum to this common question:
“The way I've freed off stuck clutches in the past is to warm the engine up, switch off then engage 1st and making sure there is nothing in the way turn the key and start the engine. As it accelerates jump on Brakes and clutch together, never fails, also never fails to frighten all around!"
“You can try getting the revs up to a speed that the car will go in gear without the use of a clutch (you need to be in a safe wide open place for this) and then gently sliding the car into gear (if it grates you may need to adjust the revs to achieve this) as the car moves forward brake hard - the car will stall but sometimes it will break the clutch free. Can't stress enough this is potentially dangerous so you should make sure you have the car in a wide open space with nothing to hit or get hit by. The sensible and safe way is to take the clutch apart, also if you are not very careful you may damage the gearbox so take your time and if in doubt don't!”
“Put rear axle up on stands, put in gear, start and warm, apply brakes with the clutch depressed (length of wood is useful). Warm up engine, stop engine, put in gear, with clutch depressed start engine - need space for the car to drive and brakes off.
I had a really stubborn one that I eventually freed by a start in gear followed by a lot of hard accels and breaking with the clutch depressed. Luckily I have a car park at the end of my road so I had the room.”
“1. Start the car in gear by turning the engine over via the key with foot off the brake and handbrake not applied.
2. Then apply a light pressure to the accelerator pedal to rev the engine (to prevent stalling) and hit the brake pedal hard (the choke full on will probably be enough).
This can all be done in a matter of seconds and approx one vehicle length.”
“I tried all of the above when my clutch used to stick, the best way is warm up the engine first, raise the back end with a trolley jack so the back wheels are off the ground, engage gear, start engine, apply a few revs, hit the foot brake. Repeat 2 or 3 times and the clutch will free, easy!”
Spare working starter is way to go!
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Could be starter motor seized but more likely bad power/earth connections. Try putting in 3rd gear and rocking back and to. Used to work on Minis when they always jammed the bendix.
Have you checked clutch isn't seized as well?
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Like the colour, 3 eared spinners and the tripod headlights but never seen a TR badge (3?) mounted on bonnet before?
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Just searched for Alec's pump ref and come up with this
Is it me or does £39.95 seem a bargain?
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Thanks for the 2 suggestions. I had the tracking checked not long ago but I was intending to go back to the same local mechanic who I trust. I will have a chat with him about these possibilities and let you know what we find.
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Car has no vibration through steering wheel - except as front brakes start to bite - not severe but irritating
Everything is bolted up ok so surmise it could be pad kick back or worn/distorted discs - they do look a bit grooved not flat smooth.
Any thing else spring to mind?
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I had a message from Terry Whately saying he wanted a pair and have sent PM him but no response. Anyone in contact with him?
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Has anyone thought of a better way of installing the hose end other than just stuffing it in the backside!
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Just to say I put the vents in the post to everyone so hopefully all received OK
If any one wants one I have a few available - first come basis.
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Wondered why my clip was too short - now I know - I thought it was just a foible on my 6 that the trim had a bigger gap than I remembered originally.
So if TRF across the pond do a longer version, are they available here as well?? If not may be another UK bulk order!
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Having been caught out with the Moss dash top I don't want to make the same mistake with the sunvisors
Is the TR shop the best again - or are Moss/Rimmer etc all the same?
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OK the box arrived this morning with 25 sets of the mustang vent drains. Paypal final charge was £74.79 and no charges made by Customs so final cost is near as dammit £3.00 a pair. I need to add on 50p for post and packing. Let me have your postal address by a PM and I'll get them off to you. A cheque is probably easiest unless you want to use paypal - I will reply by PM with all my details
They are fixed in place by top and bottom rubber moulded gromits on the back - looks like 8mm dia holes will be needed in the baffle plate. There is no direct hose connection for the drain pipe so it will probably be a case of a tight fit through the baffle plate and sticking it in through the back of the weep sleeve if that makes sense - see picture
Tell you what I think they could be used for - the bottom of the TR7 rear wings or other flat soffits such as the TR7 footwell or the boot of a 6. Anywhere there is water which shouldn't be there! With the vent exit facing to the rear it should be sucked out by wind speed.
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UPDATE
The US supplier advised me that they were dispatched on 31st March so hopefully they will arrive in the next few days
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I've noticed a few modern personal plates where the persons name is in small letters below the registration - who makes those?
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Have you got the free catalogues from Moss and Rimmer
Then search on Amazon for Roger Williams book how to restore or improve TR6. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/1903706688/ref=si_aps_sup_olp?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1301912682&sr=1-16&condition=new
I got the one on the 7 far cheaper than from the TR register unfortunately
Then get yourself along to local group meeting
Also make sure you get the Register CD Rom and possibly buy the TR brown bible on CD off Ebay.
Haynes manual is a last resort!
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PI late CP series
That looks spot on thanks
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Just dismantled the petrol cap to get it re-chromed. I need the rubber top hat seal that fits onto the spring loaded inner but cannot see it listed in Moss catalogue. Is it available and if so part no please?
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Tank is clean and no sludge so doesn't need it
4th gear whine
in TR7/8 Forum
Posted
After 650 mile round trip my ears have tuned into a persistent whine in 4th gear. What's the diagnosis and remedy please (think I know the likely answer!)