jemgee
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Posts posted by jemgee
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S+S will no doubt advise. The 5 speed box was supposedly very robust - only query was using oil or ATP.
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Used the 6 only in the last month - previously sat in garage for 9 months with less than a gallon in it
Fill tank to brim - fuel shows full but after only 50 miles it drops away to empty when it is still nearly full. Could it be the float dried out or something else and if so can I get the sender out of the tank without having to pull the tank out?
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Bitter experience.........new ones are major ****. Bought a S/H one at Malvern 4 years ago. End of failures. BTW I cheated on trying to get wire through the column and ran it tight against outside with a black cable tie.
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Over years and irrespective of filters I have found the bottom of the SU bowls fill up with a fine red sediment which I have always put down to **** in petrol. Somebody suggested it was rust but I don't think it is. Anybody had the same and found out what it is?
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Make sure you have a spare horn relay. My original 'pot' relay got hot and bothered with the air horns being used continuously and decided to fail on!
We had about 5 mins continuous and extremely penetrating horns until we were at the end of the first circuit and could pull off
If it is like last year the queue at the entrance on the outside of the walls is only surpassed by the queue for the 1 - yes 1 male and female temporary toilet. Go beforehand - be warned!!
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Only used V max for 5 years and still misfires unfortunately. Have had 2 complete tanks full in last 2 weeks
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At the risk of yet another thread on the old proverbial I am about to start on tracking down the elusive misfire.
Symptom - Warm engine - rythmic misfire at tick over and continues upto about 2200 revs. Above that it is impossible to tell whether the misfire is there. Occurs under load and just when steadily increasing revs. Above 2000 rpm engine pulls strongly but with a very infrequent hiccup. Running on V Max petrol for last 5 years.
Checks so far
All injectors pulled and seem to be similar discharge pattern. However pulse on pipes (not braided) strong except for distinctly feeble on no 5.
Plugs 1-4 look a shade rich but 5 and 6 look more sooty. I realise however that I am running BP5ES in 1- 4 and BP6ES in 5 and 6.. I think I meant to run the hotter plugs in 5 and 6 but got it back to front!
Have just ordered 6 new BP5ES from ASC on ebay - £8.66 delivered which seems a very good price
The MU and injectors were replaced by Malcolm about 3 years ago and the ignition leads, distributor cover and Lucas coil about the same time. I will next change the condenser and points and also clean the large single K&N air filter element. The rotor arm is a red one bought from the TSSC at Le Mans a couple of years ago.
Apart from checking the static timing have I missed any likely culprits? I am assuming that potentially more serious isssues eg low compression on one cylinder is unlikely
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Great. That's what I thought but grateful for confirmation
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Is that square hole for a tv/dvd/satnav??
Only needs head up display and you could be in a fighter jet!
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I've had the car for 10 years now and thought the mountings could do with replacing then, but never got round to it. This week my MOT tester (lady) remarked they look a bit perished and recommended replacing.
How easy is it?
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Quite fancy something like these and they are not too far away
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Has anyone recomendations for suitable seats - are MX5's good for the 7?
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Went to friendly local garage today. Checking indicators and sidelights were working found that ns front side light was winking and os rear light was off!
Guessed it was earth problem and sure enough the earth lead had been dislodged. Put back on and all returned to normal. The brake light switch was known to be defective and I had arranged to get the BMW switch put on. A new 069 battery for the 7 and the bill was £100 incl VAT which I reckon was a bargain.
Recommended to visit another local garage to tig spot weld the bottom door 'triangle' which had broken and clevis pin was wobbling about. No appointment and £5 - sorted.
Altogether a nice couple of hours with the hood down and a 'reasonably' quick blast round the countryside.
So all I have left to sort out now is the wiper switch and fuel sender which are playing up.
Altogether a very happy bunny
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Tickover on the 6 is so easy to adjust - just screw in the large screw whilst the engine is running - simples!
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I rang the TR Shop and asked the price for a new trim - less than £5 - so I ordered one as it solves the problem!
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Thanks guys. I guess no one supplies them in uk?
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Pete
Can't find any details of TRF location or contact phone no - can you post if available.
Thanks
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There are 2 different types but if you are in the uk it sounds like you would be better to get them all ovehauled by K Raven Smith or Malcolm at Prestige. Alternative is to replace all and you eliminate the potential problem for the forseable future. However if you swap over no 2 with one of the working ie having a cone spray pattern you will know if its no 2 injector itself, or if it isn't getting a pulse through the line - in which case its the metering unit end of the pipe
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2 and 5 come off the back of the metering unit and are banjo connections. Its usually 5 that gives the problem. I am sure others will be along to amplify the reasons and refer to previous postings on the forum.
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Pretty sure that the injector is the problem! Let me guess - number 5 or number 2
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Wish I'd known the chrome trim shrinks - does anyone sell a longer finisher?
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If you are serious about refinishing the dash use wire wool not sandpaper! I used The Gauge shop in Tunbridge Wells (they were on Ebay) Cost £250 for speedo,rev counter and all 4 small gauges completely refurbed.
Sad Day for my TR4A
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted · Edited by jemgee
Saw it happen to rear hub of French TR6 on N6 at Auxerre a few years ago. There were a lot of posts IIRC I started it and someone came back with very detailed analysis which centred on the groove for the woodruff key?
Front axle on a TR4 is different I guess!