jemgee
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Posts posted by jemgee
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How long should a water pump last? - the belt is not overtightened and a replacement pump was fitted 3 years ago and the car has done 10,000 miles since then.
At the week end my 6 developed a rumbling noise heard on tick over. After a worried few minutes thinking it was potential gearbox failure I went over the engine with the screwdriver stethoscope. Noise is from water pump bearing.
According to the manual a bolt for fitting a grease nipple was fitted but this pump does not have one?
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Motor factor gave me duff info - lower numbers are hotter!
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Just got new NGK BP6ES - and NGK leaflet which confirms the cooler plug are the lower number ie 6 is cooler than 7. Going to experiment - watch this space
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Ref the hot and cold plugs - given the PI variable mixture problems ie 5 + 6 cylinders generally running rich has any one done a mix and match using hot and cold plugs? or am I off the plot!
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Thanks Richard
I think they were probably changed when Enginuity did a dashboard and all column switches replacement for the previous owner, who'd had a vandal attack according to their mega repair bill. The o/d switch I replaced (only 3 years old)had a broken plastic component inside the switch - I hope the Moss replacement lasts longer.
I managed to jury rig it for yesterdays Red rose track day by gaffer tape on the outside of the column and picked up the bullet connectors under the dash. Great to be able to switch in and out rather than permanently on!
After several electric failures I've been told to get rid of all of the old bullet connectors. What is the best to use instead??
Mike
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Bought new o/d switch but cannot release/install wiring in the sleeve as the steering column clamp bolts are impossible to undo.I cannot get at the top of the bolt heads with a spanner and the nyloc nuts wont undo without locking the bolt from moving. Is it a tacho/speedo out job? The nuts were bad enough until I bought a set of tubular box spanners.
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At last years International I put my 6 in for the mobile tune up. When the metering unit cover was taken off the comment was made that the unit had been previously adjusted from the factory settings as the yellow paint stripe on each 'ring' was not in line. I was advised that if it was running OK it was best not to disturb the settings, and on the analyser it appeared to be running only very slightly rich at higher revs. A test drive afterwards showed that the accurate timing check etc resulted in smoother tickover and much smoother at low speeds in top gear. All in all a very worthwhile £45's worth
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when do we see the pics?
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I understood you cannot use tubeless tyres with wires.
I've got tubed wires and hope I don't find out what its like with a fast puncture in the outside lane of the M6. The last car I was in with a tube puncture was my fathers 1937 Austin Big 7 back in 1955 and speed of the car was not an issue. I have considered the 'gunge injection' into the tube but does any one have any experience with how sucessful it is? I know tyre fitters detest it in tubeless tyres when they have to do a repair.
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The H&S warnings on any packages tend to be fairly low key wording (other than the skull and crossbones variety!). The clue to it is to ask the manufacturer for COSHH sheets on the product. When you read those they often result in the opposite impression!
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Sorry to be dense - if the original rims are 5 1/2 J why does a minilite foul the wishbone?
PS I'm still trying to find out why my cww are stamped as 5 1/2 K - or is that an Indian reference?
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Richard
I knew something did not stack up when I read it but the brain is in shut down mode
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Apparently I do!
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There is one on ebay at the moment
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws....y=27383
sorry I don't know how to hyperlink (?)
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I think Ron is probably right, as the injection models were not supplied for the US market the overdrive badge could be fitted instead - but then again were all US models fitted as standard with O/D?
I must get a heritage cert ordered for my car - Does the V5 which gives the chassis and engine number include the O suffix? - both of my numbers end with an 0 so I am not certain if one of them is actually an O for overdrive
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I see from the Moss catalogue that a black or cream Overdrive engraved sign is available for the rear body panel.
Would these have been fitted automatically to a factory fitted O/D spec car? I have the A series O/D but the standard 'injection' sign is on the boot which could mean a retrofit O/D??
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Just sold my original seats on Ebay. Purchaser is in Suffolk and I am in Merseyside.After a ring around I've only found 1 company who will overnight them (I do not have a business account). Can anyone recommend any transport company and more particularly how heavy is a seat (other than standing on a bathroom scale holding one) as the cost is by weight.
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Richard
Thanks for the info - its an early type so I will have to trust to luck that the block is a good fit.
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I aquired a S/H adaptor but without the vital bit - the through bolt!
Can anyone advise size and type or even offer me one for which suitable payment will be made!
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I tried a couple of motor factors and one had a very grubby and old Hella blister pack kit with simple instructions that even I could follow. It was about £17
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Desperately trying to remember O level Physics - would there be any merit in surrounding the bulkhead end of the manifold with a 'cone' shaped stub duct to create a venturi effect ie to help suck air from the front of the manifold through to the rear and exit via a hole in the end of the manifold?
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Having never used Autoglym ie no financial interest I thought I would try their vinyl hood dressing. Result a very happy bunny with a very black glossy vinyl hood but also much improved plastic windows that show little of the original scuffing. A good result for under a fiver
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I seem to remember being told that if you have MX5 seats the MX5 wind deflector fits onto the TR hood frame mountings and it only costs about £80 - or diy with thick perspex is half that at most
Water Pump
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Cheers Richard
Have ordered a sealed replacement which should be available tomorrow, so as long as the bolts aren't seized it should be an easy swap over. Just hoping that the water pump isn't masking other gremlin sounds!