jemgee
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Posts posted by jemgee
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Jean
Having trawled through the old bills for my car I have one from 1999 which is for replacing the ignition electrical switch. I surmise that the whole unit was taken out and not reassembled onto the column correctly thus the locking of the steering wheel does not happen. I much prefer the idea of a central old style ignition key switch instead of the panel rheostat which is useless and according to one of the US websites a real fire risk.
Any recommendations/comments from the team gratefully received
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Thanks everyone. I called in at TR Bitz on the way home and thought I had it cracked with a new switch and separate barrel for about £16. Unfortunately it is for the early TR4 - 6 (with a key switch in the centre console) ie it does not fit my 6. A quick call to them confirmed that I would need the complete unit to clamp onto the column - out of stock and about £50. Moss also confirmed that the unit is supplied complete.
Has anyone tried fitting the old style ignition switch in place of the instrument light rhesostat - it seems the ideal and relatively easy location to get at (subject to extending the wiring loom?) and does away with fishing about under the steering wheel to fit the key.
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Emergency weekend solution in Belguim ie hammer and screwdriver into stuck ignition barrel means I now have to replace the key switch fitted under the steering column.
I am confused by the various reference in the Moss catalogue and the Triumph repair manual to a steering column lock/ignition/starter switch as my ignition switch did not lock the steering (as on modern cars). Can I just buy and replace the guts ie switch and barrel or is it only available as the complete assembly bolted to the steering column.If possible I don't want the grief involved as shown in 57.40.31 in the manual
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I have had similar price from 2 local firms but I have no previous experience of them but trust TrBitz exchange replacement at £90. Also according to TR Trader stockport web page a new rad is £102 + VAT which seems very good and I'm over that way on Tuesday morning. I understand the drain tap is not fitted these days
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Having been concerned with near overheating last year I did a thorough backflush with 2 part cleaner/inhibitor, replaced the water pump and now the 82 degree thermostat, finally filling up with Halfords 'supergrade' antifreeze/summer coolant.
Now of course I've found a couple of drips coming out of the bottom of the radiator core. I am going to get a replacement rad but TR Bitz are waiting for stock. What is the opinion of using Barrs Leaks or Radweld etc to keep me running over the weekend - I need the car for Redrose open weekend. I dont want the engine waterways clogging in future.
As the car is predominantly summer use I also wondered about leaving the thermostat out to give constant circulation - any comments?
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see the topic 'line drawing of TR6' a few items lower down on the index
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Simon
In the papers with my car was a photocopy of an article on the TR6 from Classic & Sports Car. I've no idea when it was issued but you are welcome to a faxed copy. Plenty of info for a new convert.
In the text there is a passing reference to one Harry Dent - the man should take a bow! (Graeme Robinson's 6 - YDU 197N)
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A few years ago I seem to remember the register sending me a 2 page print about the 6 detailing the things to look out for and I think it had a line perspective darwing. Can it be put up on the site?
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Thanks Ron. Which electronic gizmo have you gone for? - the Aldon seems to be very simple and that is where I picked up the use of their or the Lucas sport coil.
Many years ago I fitted Piranha to a Daimler V8 250 which had 2 contact breakers within the Lucas distributor and were a pain to get spot on. The piranha system was with the slotted spinner and light beam and worked brilliantly
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Bit surprised by Ron and Jonlar's recommendations for 3 reasons
I'm told that CR series used ballasted coils at 6v as factory fit (see Moss catalogue) to improve cold start
Roger Williams book recommends them
I want to go to electronic ignition and they are fitted in conjunction with high output coils.
Also Jonlar's comment about a gold coil - is this different than the sports coil which is gold. Just to confuse the issue Roger Williams book shows a gold coil with the caption Lucas 'Sports/Gold' coil
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How about sliding a clear plastic outer sheath over the fancy braid!!! I know my plastic pipes look old but when they ain't broke..........
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After a rash of Redrose members suffering problems with their old coils, I decided to buy a sports coil at Tatton. Found that it was a 6v version and as the CP cars do not have balance resistors was told to fit a separate one.
As a complete berk when it comes to electrics - (I can understand pos and neg), can anyone explain in words of one sylable how cold starting is improved as stated in Moss catalogue by stepping down from 12v to 6v. Is it correct to insert the resister in line on the incoming power lead to the coil?
Finally as the problem with the coil seems partly to be excessive heat would it be best to mount it on the inner wing rather than as now bolted to the engine block?
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Another boring moniker - jemgeetr6!
Today I am a happy bunny. Local firm Key Auto Electrics 149 Rice Lane , Walton, Liverpool 9 0151 524 2133 supplied me with 55 amp Lucas alternator - straight swap over for £28 +VAT. They also supply batteries and starters and will re-build your own if necessary. I fitted it in a few minutes and the output is noticeably higher - at tickover there is no discharge showing on the ammeter. I'm wondering if the old one had a failing regulator.
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Kris
We are going to have to get together when bidding on ebay against each other! good luck with it - I might get into manchester in the next few weeks so I'll call in to see them. I don't need one as much as you - its just I hate seeing the needle on discharge when sitting in traffic queues with the Kenlowe running.
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Yesterday I just missed a recon 18ACR (45amp) for £16 on ebay from a company called Naes ltd in manchester (but I think they have other uk branches). They also had loads of other alternators listed including a 17ACR (36amp). When I checked that one it also gave it as a Lucas part no LRA 100 which is the number shown on my existing alternator. I spoke to them on the phone and they told me that a LRA 226 will fit (identical size and connections) available in 45, 55 and 65 ratings. They would supply new 55 amp for £45.
Also trawled through the US sites and they list a Bosch 13107 as fitted to 78-80 Fiesta or an AC delco 60amp ref 7127 as suitable
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Les
Thats what I was thinking of doing so I rang the Lucas service depot in Liverpool. They will only exchange on a like for like basis and quoted me £42 + £15 surcharge for the 18ACR. My old alternator is obviously not the original as it has a reference Lucas LRA 100 on the label. I hope that the 45amp unit will be OK with the existing cables. One of the US sites (Buckeye?) refers to various GM and Ford alternators as suitable which may be available in UK
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At a quick guess the problem is down stream ie the angle drive from the gearbox is duff
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My alternator bearing is running noisy and as it is the Lucas ACR 100 (32amp output?) I'm wondering about swapping it for a higher output (45 amp?) to cater for the extra load of electric fan, Bosch pump and halogen head and spot lights etc.
Any suggestions as to suitable alternative? - I'd prefer not having to replace all the connections to save downtime
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If the head is OK why not consider a short motor on exchange - my 6 was fitted with a Rimmer one in 98 and the price was £395 supplied - I don't know what they cost now!
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I bought the CTM 3 bolt brackets and Koni's at Malvern last year. I had a bit of help from my local garage to fit them as the mounting holes were marginally out. We fitted the Koni's 'out of the box' and whilst I accept that they have to be removed to adjust I have been delighted with the handling as is. I was at the Redrose trackday and had no nasty moments
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My 6 is fitted with an unlabelled coil the outer case of which is blue lacquered. I've seen a sports coil with a gold lacquer. Does anyone have knowledge of blue lacquered coils as to whether it is a sports coil?
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Richard
I was coming to that conclusion myself. I think they probably buy in from third world countries or China - there is no mention on the box of where its manufactured. The pulley was not 'face' turned (like the one taken off) and has casting marks - OK it does not affect use but it looks built down to a price.
Trouble is I have not been able to find any other source. Having felt the weight of it I wish I could justify the light alloy alternative (from Revingtion) which is a tad pricey
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Stephen
Now I know why i was struggling to catch you - my 6 is on old Firestone 660 on the rear and the grip wasn't there until they were good and hot!
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Got the new pump (Quinton Hazell ref QCP 749) and fitted tonight. After road test water is dripping steadily out of the vent hole in the casting so will return for a refund. I don't feel inclined to use a leak sealer.
Has anyone else had quality problems with QH replacements??
TR6 / Rover V8
in TR6 Forum
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