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Posts posted by jemgee
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Back in 2004 I had a rythmic clunk which happened only at about 40mph from the nearside rear. I had changed to telescopics with CTM brackets and had changed all the UJ's
At Malvern I jacked the wheel up and could feel no play or anything else. After the horror stories of stub axles breaking I managed to get a good recon hub from a RedRose member. Back home after a worried drive, i took the hub off. Turning it the feeling was like the bearing was a threepenny bit so I suggest getting it off to really feel if its ok
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Always remember the latin
Nil desperandum carborundum
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Andreas thanks for that. Very few places in UK do on car balancing but there is one about 15 miles away. Your TR6's sound awesome!
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I am trying to pin down the cause of steering wheel shake at 70 -75mph. The suspension and wheel bearings have all been replaced and minilites balanced. Could it be wear in the steering rack and if so is it best to replace it or can it be adjusted/repaired?
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Thanks for that guys. The approved body shop in Merseyside for BMW and Porsche also say they are MB approved so I will tootle down and see what their info and quote is. The local firm gave me a budget of £3000 max (and no VAT)
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I thought I would ask the learned forum members to advise on the paint question relating to my SL320
Having taken advice re the rust on my front wings I will be getting new MB wings but having looked at the car very critically other stone chips and rust spots mean that once you start you are into a complete respray to get a car I would be happy to keep for 10 years etc.
I have checked several bodyshops out and a local firm to me look good having restored an E type. They say they use a paint system called Standox Waterborne paint system (which I had never heard of) with a low bake oven. However checking on Google one US website says that it is approved by MB USA for refinishing works. Mercedes-Benz USA approves Standox paint systems | Search Autoparts
Does anyone here have any knowledge or advice please? -
Mailbox is trimmed and thanks Alec I will have a look tomorrow
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Ooer sorry about that i will delete old stuff thanks
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OK boffins
I know I am/was a clown. I have a small hosepipe S shape about 6" long and 1/2" bore with a code AS 13779 on it.
Trouble is is it for a 6, 7 or 7V8 S&S conversion?
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Can I suggest 2 (or more) 2 drawer steel filing cabinets or other varieties eg some smaller ones have multiple filing drawers which are shallow) can usually be picked up cheap from second hand office furniture dealers. Robust and usually fairly rust free and can be sprayed up. The worktop could be made up from an external quality ply faced flush door blank up to 3' x 7' or standard 2'6" or 2'9" x 6'6". It can then be covered with something like a vinyl floor covering bonded with adhesive. In any event go for a light grey or similar that way you will be able to see small nuts and washers that will be invisible on black! A strong flush door will also usually allow bolting down of a desk vice etc
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Copied from an ealier post from Derek Graham
Hi Dave, on your TR the pop rivited body number tag on the bulkhead should be unpainted and is actually the "Trim body number" The "body on white tag" is actually welded to the underside of the nearside rear arch and that will be painted over. It may be however that this tag is welded onto the top of the offside front wheel as the commission number of your TR is at about the changeover point. See attached images of the two locations. Heritage shells have their own numbering system and they are also on a pop rivited bulkhead aluminium plate with a number like BMHTR00????. This can of course be replaced with the original tag. Later TR6's from circa CP/CC75001 had two pop rivited aluminium body tags on the bulkhead one painted and one unpainted.
The bottom line is that for TR6 with a similar commission number to yours then if your shell is original you should have a welded body tag either on the top of the offside front wheelarch or underside of rear nearside wheelarch.
cheers
Derek -
I can recommend
at Lymm truck stop M6
Repaired an old Midland CB and set it to match aerial Didn't cost much and very helpful
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Hi Chris
It was - but the rest of the programme was ****
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Bricks available in blue, red and yellow to match paint colours but tough if its BRG
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I bought a pair of oversize stops from Revington as this was a possible remedy when fitting Minilites. In the event I was able to get some 3 (or 6mm) spacers off fleabay and thus have them somewhere in the garage. When I get round to it I will fleabay them unless anyone here needs them
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Yep the CR (post 72) has a black plastic grille. Oops I was only on page 1 !!
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I've raised the query with Asda customer services as to spec and additives and detergents etc. The guy I spoke to was very helpful and contacted their buyer who will contact the manufacturer to get the info. I will post when I get an answer.
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I would be surprised if they are re-refined but I am tempted to ask for more manufacturing details.
They also do own brand diesel mineral oil for £16 and semi and full synthetics for £20.
They would be taking a heck of a risk if any modern vehicles suffered damage from oils with full classifications stated
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Suggest you have a look at http://www.rust.co.uk/
I used some of their products for my resto
Usual disclaimers but well satisfied customer
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Hi Peter
It only refers to it being suitable for pre 1990 higher mileage engines. As i am doing less than 2000 miles a year without anything other than 70 (or 80 in France) on motorway runs
Overcome with a fit of meanness I decided to think about it so probably there will be none left!
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Anyone bought or tried Asda 20/50 mineral oil just spotted on a bottom shelf at £8 for 5 litres
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Remove rotor arm job done
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Following suspension and wheel bearings replaced I have been advised the steering rack is showing up some wear. I had the front wheels re-balanced but there is still some vibration at about 70mph. I believe the solid aluminium rack mountings are fitted.
Is it best to consider a new or a quick rack or a rebuild by a specialist? What about change to original or polybushes?
Failing Alternator?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
If you have a backstreet auto electrics shop - the sort in yellow pages - that does starter and alternator repairs it could be worth checking out. Key Auto Electrics in Walton, Liverpool checked my alternator out for no charge, and instead of rebuilding it they supplied a Lucas high output for about £30 a few years ago