SlickV8
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Posts posted by SlickV8
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apologies for not signing this one off sooner, been on the home run getting the 6 finished....which it now is [i hope]!
So with your much appreciated help & advice I removed & re-fitted the 'box 3 times but along with the previously mentioned new parts it now works perfectly!
Thank you all so much for your input - just got to wait till spring to have a good old roadtrip now
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Still waiting on parts but just so I’m sure, am I aiming to push the bearing all the way into the carrier? Or just maybe half way?
the original was all the way in (see pic attached of how it came off)thanks
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The mounts all look good tbh. Ive just rebuilt the car and it has done its first 200 miles without any real issues other than the sticky clutch.
It didn't judder before so I'm pretty sure that, all things being equal, the judder must be from my not pushing the release bearing into the sleeve far enough as other than refitting the 'box all I've changed is the bearing & carrier.
The oil is dripping [1 drop every 2-3 minutes] from the bottom of the bell housing just to the right of the slave cylinder [viewing from the back]. Looking at the schematic that RogerH kindly posted above I'm going to order a first motion shaft front oil seal, front cover to GB gasket and a couple of alignment bolts
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Oh rats. Ok, good spot. I’ll order them with the oil seal tmrw. Thanks!
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Ah, that’s useful thanks! So the bolts were in the right way originally, my bad
obviously I’m going to pull the ‘box again to sort the oil leak so I’ll swap them over then.
The alignment studs are in the top 3 holes which looks correct. -
Got back on it today and typically there’s good news and not so good.
First off it’s def a Laycock clutch but the previous owner had used bolts instead of locator studs along the top and also put the remaining bolts in from the engine side so the thread was supporting the bell housing rather than the plain steel ‘ring’ at the top of the bolts.
I had thought the release bearing was noisy so swapped it out for new Koyo one along with a bronze sleeve/carrier. I also don’t know if I should push the bearing into the carrier so elected to push it in as far as I could get it by hand. It looked straight and assuming the clutch pressure would force it further as it operated I reassembled.
Good news is the clutch works and 20 minute drive showed no sign of sticky syndrome. Still seems a lot of bearing noise in neutral though?Less good is it has some judder on take up in first & reverse and worse still it’s started dripping oil, quite heavily really
Im thinking I need maybe press the release bearing further into the sleeve to cure the judder? and that I must have somehow dislodged the main shaft oil seal when putting it back in position?
At least I’m now able to remove a ‘box by myself in around 45 minutes!
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Thanks all. There’s some reading in that lot
I’ve ordered new locating dowels, a new release bearing & a new bronze sleeve. They won’t be delivered before I have to go sit on a beach (wishing I was in the garage) for a week but I’ll report back with the results as soon as I can get to it.
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Thank you all, Its got to be worth a go
I'll order them now
regards
Nick
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6 minutes ago, RogerH said:
Hi Slick,
in general there is nothing wrong with the B&B products as such.
The sticky clutch (ratchet clutch) is caused by the engine and GB centrelines not being aligned.
During the rebuild did you fit the two special bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine backplate. ?
These align the two lumps.
On my 4A I found an oddity - the splined GB input shaft was ata slight angle (apprx 15') in the vertical axis.
This caused the Clutch Bearing Carrier to be on the 'cock' - which allowed the carrier to snag/stick on the GB extension and then suddenly release.
Look for wear marks on the extension nose
Roger
I dont recall any 'special bolts' but it was a long time ago in the scheme of things; I'm just on line now looking to see if I can find them; would you suggest replacing them with new ones, refitting the 'box to the engine and trying? could it be that simple?
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I'm as sure as I can be from doing a bit of research, I've not removed it as the symptoms seem to be exactly as people describe Sticky Clutch Syndrome. TBH at this point in the build I'm thinking for the sake of a few hundred £ and a days hard labour I may aswell just replace the clutch and be done with it
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Hi all, I've just finished my first TR6 build and 200 miles into an [otherwise brilliant] shakedown run its developed what I believe is referred to as Sticky Clutch Syndrome. The pedal is fine and smooth with the engine off but as it warms up the clutch become increasingly sticky as it comes up making pulling away somewhat awkward. Having just had my first weekend in 12 months without oil under my fingernails I'm resigned to now stripping her again & removing the 'box to replace it...but what with? Ive no idea what clutch is in it, it was an abandoned project and the PO had insisted he'd put a new clutch in so I left it untouched [that'll teach me!]
From what I can find, the B&B aftermarket clutch can be the cause of this but theres also a B&B Original Spec and one thats described as B&B OEM. The best solution seems to be the Laycock clutch but they seem to be unobtanium.
I really only want to do this once so advice would be most gratefully received?
Thanks
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Typically the day job got in the way this week but yesterday, after a week untouched, I pulled out choke, span the ignition 4 times in approx 5 second bursts and on the 5th turn it fired up and settled straight on a fast idle on all 6. Hooray!
I’ve sent the original injectors off for exchange but the admittedly manky old ones I had spare seem to be working well for now.
Re setting the idle, I confess I had been trying to get it set with the Fast idle screw fully in, it’s possibly half a turn out now and the car will stall if I screw it all the way in as I now understand is correct….another lesson learned
thanks again all, invaluable. I’m now fitting the seats while waiting for a brake bleeder to arrive and hopefully out for a proper first drive later today.
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Quick update. My next TR6 project is sat waiting at back of garage. I drove it home 12 months ago noting it seemed to run great but clutch was goosed; just nicked the injectors out of it and current one now seems to be pretty well sorted!! I’ve never driven it but just back from a very agreeable blast up a local farm track. No seats/interior so awkward but hit 60 no trouble although my assumption that I’d bled the brakes properly needs revisiting.
I’m calling it a day now, like to finish on a high
ill be interested to see how it cold starts tmrw but I’ll keep this updated. Thanks again for all your suggestions & advice
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On 6/24/2023 at 10:34 AM, JohnC said:
Going out on a (very short) limb here. It is not the shuttle. If that were stuck you'd get nothing. I suspect you damaged some seals when you removed and replaced the unions. As a rule, I don't take apart the MU unless I have replacements for all the seals & O-rings (the barrel shaped seals in particular). They get deformed and harden over time and are easily damaged on reassembly. You may have done that when you removed and replaced the unions. A strong indicator of that is the dripping with the ignition on. There should be zero flow from the injectors if the engine isn't running. If there is, then high-pressure fuel is making its way between the rotor and sleeve or between sleeve and MU body, and into the injector lines.
Fit the recon PI, make sure you have a healthy and well-charged battery, check the fuel pressure *when cranking* and then give it a whirl.
JC
Hi John. I thought the aim of bleeding the injectors was to string them up & run fuel pump until they are all dripping??
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Injector 6 had some small droplets in the fan so swapped it out for a spare old one I had on the shelf. Definitely improved things but it’s still no comfortable idling below 11-1200.
The TB’s now balance at approx 2.5kg across all but 5&6 seem to fall away below 1000 rpm.Daft question; is the aim to have the idle speed screw fully closed? Best I can get is idling around 1100 with fast idle screw out a little over 1/2 turn. It’s still lumpy on initial throttle.
it’s also happier with a touch of choke on.
I’ve ordered a set of replacement injectors so I’ll see what difference that makes next week when they arrive.
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Refurbished MU fitted and it started with little fuss. Only problem now is it’s lumpy at idle and I think running very lean.
I plumbed a vacuum gauge in between MU & inlet manifold and best reading I can tease from rotating the distributor is 12hg, I believe it should be 15+? I’ve sprayed carb cleaner over every joint & can’t find any obvious vacuum leaks.
I’ve balanced the TB’s so they’re all equal (all around 5kg on the balancer scale) but it doesn’t want to idle at all comfortably and does that hollow boggy ‘dooooohhhh’ thing when you open the throttle before seemingly revving freely at higher rpm. Although blipping it gets a few backfires through inlet 1 & 2
I’m hoping to get back on it tmrw afternoon, first job is check all the injectors are def producing a good fan….. -
Thats all really helpful, thank you all for your advice. I've actually got a refurbed MU I was saving for a second TR6 I have waiting to be rebuilt when this ones finished. I'll swap it in tmrw and report back.
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Interesting. So yes it’s run previously. It was an unfinished project, I got it running about 2 months ago (ran great) then one day it just wouldn’t start. The old prv was leaking anyway so I took the opportunity to redo the fuel system. The MU had a leaking union so I took them all off and refitted them. I’m confident the red plastic thing is fine. What’s the shuttle in the MU, how do I get to it & is it serviceable?
thank you. -
Hi all. I’ve a fuelling issue on my ‘73 Pi. I’ve upgraded fuel pump & PRV (I set pressure using a gauge to 107psi) to new and trying to bleed injectors. I’ve eventually got fuel in all 6 of them and they all drip when hung up from bonnet with fuel pump on.
it sometimes starts with a dose of ‘easy start’ but runs like a bag of spanner’s then dies. I’m sure no fuel to a few cylinders. When I remove injectors / disconnect coil and turn it over I get a short cone from one injector then nothing until I release the key at which point another injector fires. Occasionally 2 or 3 seem to fire in rapid succession but only when I release the ignition key from the start position. Ive seen all 6 fire at some point so they all work) So my query is that I turn the key and get one injector fire but then no injectors firing at all while the engine is cranking then 1 or 2 fire as I release the key. is that right? Have I miss-timed something or do I just need keep at it? Battery flat now so off for a beer while it charges overnight but advice would be most appreciated.
thanks I’ve tried to add a short clip to show youNick
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I'm going to ask this purely because I'm intrigued....fibreglass wings, any experience / comments? If[?] they fit ok it seems a reasonable way to permanently rust proof each corner?? Shall I get my coat?
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here you go, i was just looking at it
so this offer is for the 3500slx circa 1.5ton capacity. Also i noticed the power Unit in the picture carousel isnt the one you'll get. As in the description, it comes with the mini power unit which is about half the size and needs jump leads to connect to a car battery. That big unit in the picture is a small fortune [around £1k on its own i think] but I'm sure you can get a transformer to down scale 240v to 12v but not understanding electrics on any level Ive just stuck with jump leads and a remote freestanding battery
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1 hour ago, CP26309 said:
I've owned my 69 Pi 6 for 49 years. So just a few none bodywork mechanical things to look out for...The Engines weak link is its pair of Crank Thrust Washers...Use a screw driver behind the crank pulley to check for wear. The two washers are easy to replace, use the Bronze ones in place of the soft white metal ones. Other wise the engine is a good unit. The Lucas Pi system was originally developed to run on 5 Star Leaded 101 octane. Since the introduction of Unleaded fuel I've never found the need to convert my cylinder head as it never Pinks running on top grade fuel like Shells 97 Ron 'V Power + Nitro' which is still only E5 (Thank you Shell). The injection system works perfectly if well maintained. The TR Shop in Chiswick London do a postal exchange service for the injectors. But replacing the Rubber seals is the first quick fix, as the system is all about maintaining the psi. Some owners replace the original Lucas fuel pump with a Bosch, but the Lucas pump is just as good, and can be serviced as can the the Metering Unit and PR valve by a postal service to a very good man on this forum called Neil Ferguson.
Useful thank you. I’m flat out on bodywork at the minute so I can get it painted but I’ll be getting at the mechanicals in short order I hope
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No problem, Ive replied on your post Roy
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I don't use FB Roy but I wouldn't be getting under any car supported by a non-fixed frame that cost $39!
I bought a QuickJack from Costco last summer. It was on offer at £959 - BL7000SLX so its around 3 tonne lifting capacity.
If you want a review; as a home garage lift its OK, certainly easier / quicker than trolley jacks and axle stands. You can lock it at 2 heights, max is around 500mm which doesnt sound a lot but it means i can sit on a stool and work comfortably or get under the car without banging my head and having to twist around swearing if i drop a socket....and Ive also access to the entire underside at once. Plus i don't have the ceiling height for a full height lift.
It is bloody heavy to manoeuvre initially [don't believe the pictures of a guy with one ramp in each hand unless your nickname is Rocky] and be aware the offers tend to be on the 12v ones like mine so you need power it from a 12v car battery, although that's not as inconvenient as it sounds so long as you have a good trickle charger in your tool box. In my workshop i sometimes work outside for messy jobs or just if the suns shining and its relatively easy to move the ramps out and set the car up in the sun. Only takes a few minutes [note the previous bloody heavy bit though]
Around 30 seconds up and similar down, i'd summarise it as basically really handy.
Hope that's some use to you; if you do end up with a hydraulic lift for $39 please use axle stands too!!
Sticky Clutch syndrome; Which clutch to replace it with?
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