Davogs73
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Posts posted by Davogs73
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7 hours ago, stuart said:
Export chassis to the US didnt have any ID stamped on the chassis just the usual body plates riveted to the shell. Chassis built in Europe did have the ID stamped on the top of the rear front right hand lower inner wishbone mounting box plus a stamping on the top right hand side face of the footwell
Your going to have to be very careful how you approach this for registration purposes as theres a distinct possibility you`ll end up with a Q plate. I would talk to Graham Andrews who is the clubs liaison officer with DVLA and he would be able to advise you how to proceed.
Stuart.
Thanks for all the good advice. Graham has seen this and contacted me so I will follow up.
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Many thanks. My issue is - and it's a but complicated - that I originally bought a 'CP' TR6 with chassis and body separate, and with all the bits (90%) in boxes.
(It was cheap and I was later to find out why).
During the rebuild I realised that the chassis was so bad and unusable for me, so I gave it away to someone in the Register. (He modified and built it up into a racing TR so at least it wasn't lost).
I then replaced it with a chassis imported from USA from the then Northern TR Centre. Who did all the strengthening that was advised. And this is the chassis I'm using now.
And then (!) I realised that the bodyshell was so far gone that it was just not worth saving, so I stripped everything off it, (doors; bonnet etc. which are in storage) and scrapped it and bought a full (well 90% anyway) 'CP' TR6 donor car from Clive Manvers. (Another name from the past). and used that body shell on the imported Northern TR chassis.
The chassis from the Clive Manvers car is still in storage with engine; gearbox, and all running gear, wheels etc. It was in good order but I had already done so much work on the imported chassis that I continued to use that.
So I now have 2 complete TR6 identities with DVLA registration certificates. V5C. (Both SORNED of course) : -
1). Clive Manvers bodyshell on an unidentified USA imported chassis, with the original engine, etc. (gearbox was also replaced with a stag overdrive gearbox).
2). Stored Clive Manvers chassis; with engine etc.
So it's like Triggers broom with 12 new heads and 14 new handles (but it's the same broom !!)
It's been a record slow rebuild (lack of time; money; space, illness etc. as well as expertise)
Now I just need to tie up all of the numbers - engine/bodyshell/gearbox etc. I just assumed the chassis had an ID because there is a VIN/Chassis/Frame No. on the V5C ?
Just to complicate it more, I have 2 small alloy plates (80mm x 10mm) which are from the 2 bodyshells, I believe on the bulkheads behind the clutch master cylinder. There is no reference on either V5C so I don't know which plate is which ?
How can I identify which plate is from which bodyshell (1 in use and 1 scrapped), and will I need to sort out these body, engine, chassis numbers when I un-SORN it?
I said it was complicated !!
Thanks,
Mike.
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Where on my TR6 chassis might I find an identification plate of some kind.
It is an imported chassis from the Us that I obtained some years ago from northern Tr Centre in Sedgefield. (Now sadly closed)
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Hi i am also missing a pair of reflectors. I have several of the rear light fixtures I picked up over the years, but now it comes to refurbishing a pair for my rebuild I find only one has the internal reflectors (image attached). Does anyone have any for sale please, or know if they are even obtainable ?
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Richard,
Many thanks I would appreciate the spec. case.
I have attached an image showing some of the the wheel damage. What flexible filler did you use - I assume it can be painted over with Scratch Doctor Kit ?
More images to come showing some damage on the rim. I have looked at things like DEVCON, VITON RUBBER, BISON LIQUID RUBBER etc. to fill the holes but not sure if they are the right stuff ? Do you have any advise on that ?
Regards and many thanks,
Mike Davidson, Unit H4 Rotterdam Park, Rotterdam Road, Hull HU7 0AN.
Please let me know what I owe you.
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Richard, many thanks that looks pretty good to me. I would be happy with that.
I will investigate the scratch doctor steering wheel kit. Although my rim needs to come off and be stuck on again as the spokes are really bad and need more than a respray.
Very intrigued by the use of spectacle case material - interesting but could you explain that a bit more please as I am a specs wearer but not sure how you did it ?
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I have spoken with www.steeringwheelrestoration.com and they seem ok, but quoted a price of £300 plus carriage plus vat. They completely remake the whole thing, spokes in stainless steel, leather cover stitched on. Sounds like a great job, but not sure i want to spend that much.
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Many thanks for all of the help. I actually have two steering wheels so will try to do on one of them what Ed_h suggested and cut around the inside of the rubber, then glue it back on after the steel has been renovated.
There is a small amount of damage to the rubber at the back, but I might try Bison Liquid Black rubber to do an invisible (?) repair.
Unless anyone can suggest a better product.
Bullfire Garage rebuild is absolutely excellent by the way, and so informative - I could have done with this years ago when I started this rebuild !!
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Hi, first time on here. I'm rebuilding a '72 CP TR6, and not sure what to do with refurbishing the steering wheel. I'm ok doing the metal part of the wheel itself, but It has some sort of rubber covering which extends onto the 3 spokes. Does anyone know if its possible to remove the rubber covering and replace it after the metal is refurbished. Or anyone who specialises in this ?
I don't want to get a modern replacement wheel.
Many thanks.
Mike
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On 5/30/2020 at 12:03 AM, tr6tuga said:
Just a update.
I had the top dash laying around in the office for the last year unoppend pack, whaiting for a chance to install it
With the lockdown had the opportunity to have a lgp
Contact Rimmers and told them about the manufacturing defect wich they acknowledge but refused a return or a at least accept some sort of refund/exange on the fact that warrants had expired...and sugested me to buy the more espensive vinyl top crashpad, no discount
For the last 10 years I ve being a regular customer spending many £ k...but apparently CRM for them is just something a mkt consultor mentioned in the last company meeting that they did not fully understood!
Peace of advice, check asap all items from Rimmers and return if found faulty, specially if the ongoing restoration takes time.
Rimmers sells defective parts being well awere
That was the last time I bought from them, prefer pay more and have a real CRM
And I have a unsuitable top crash pad :(@ *&^/$$%
Thank you for you time
Rimmers just did the same to me. They sent the wrong part (different from the part number on the invoice) - It was a long time before I noticed as it was all boxed up, but they refused to correct their mistake. I will never go there again.
CHASSIS PLATE ID
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Graham,
Much appreciated I will contact you soon. One problem is that I seem to have 2 small plates which I think are the body numbers (both ending in CP). I must have taken one of them off the scrapped body (understandable) but also one off the Clive Manvers car as well. I probably did that before it went for dipping and spraying but not sure now - anyway there isn't one on at the moment. I don't know which came from which body so is there any way to check - there is nothing on either V5C ?