[Rear diff replacement advice]

On 5/20/2023 at 11:17 AM, rcreweread said:

Owen (?) - not sure where you are (?) but I suggest you speak to Pete/Tom Cox at Pete Cox Sports Cars ( https://petecoxsportscars.co.uk/) in Redditch about refurbing your existing diff - if its not whining and you are happy for them not to replace your CWP, they will do it - also suggest you have a drain plug fitted at the same time. 

If you want an off the shelf exchange unit, it will almost certainly come with a new CWP ( and commensurate cost)

Hope this helps  Cheers Rich

Rich, thanks so much for the advice. Pete and Tom are great to deal with and have given my diff the once over, and a full service at a fraction of the cost of a new one. All spick and span and bolted back into place. Highly recommend them to anyone else. They are very popular though, can take some time getting the unit back. But well worth the wait. All the best Owen  

[Rear diff replacement advice]

Morning, my rear diff is just dropping all the top ups on the garage floor. I am not sure I could do a service on it, so probably easier to get a replacement refurbished unit. 
But do I need a unit with new CWP or not?

thanks for any inputs

[Ignition switch playing up - methinks?]

As one door closes, another always opens…

new switch, engine alive with gusto again and all else electrical good.

Now the clutch has gone…. Huzzah!

[Ignition switch playing up - methinks?]

Doh! Thanks Alan, tried that, dead at inertia switch. Pulled ignition switch out of lock, turned dial to running, nothing, until i squeezed the switch front to back... all came to life. Very repeatable, so must be switch body rather than wiring further back. So, off to get a new switch.... Guess i should have done that first, just didnt have any hint anything was wrong with that switch... All the best to all, and thanks again...

[Ignition switch playing up - methinks?]

Hi Alan, yes, you are right about the turn of the key and events. But this is the first time I've hit the issue, and nothing has changed in the set up or kit. So i dont think its the coil? I drove the car about a month ago and its been sat in garage since.

A friend came over who wanted to see it in action and it just plain refused - for the first time ever.

I cannot see what else it could be but a contact that is not happening.

The key goes through the turns. When the key goes to the normal point of lighting up the ignition and firing up the fuel pump nothing happens.

But just before the starter motor fires - there at that point everything comes to life.

But the key drops back to running point and all turn off again........ So i am thinking theres a bad or dirty contact? 

Or is there an electrical whizz I'm missing?

Thanks for any thoughts, i'm pretty stumped beyond just thinking its the switch.... I'm more mechanics than electrics I'm afraid...

Regards Owen

[Ignition switch playing up - methinks?]

How do, I hope all are well and safe in this crazy world. 
 

The ignition switch on my TR6 has decided it won’t give power to the fuel pump until it turns far enough to fire the starter motor, and then stops the power to the pump once the motor fires and the key goes back to normal running point. Is this a common issue out there? I am assuming because everything does work, just not at the right time, that the switch is most likely the issue? So a replacement needed?

But I was also wondering if anyone has put a push button starter in place. I know, but just because……?

and if so, any recommendations on bits to use?

Thanks

Owen

[This is actually a serious question]

On 7/4/2021 at 10:18 AM, john.r.davies said:

The Swedish statistican Hans Rosling considerd the question of how do we control our population.    He concluded that education, and the empowerment of women, will limit the world to 11 billion people, with no need for Malthusian solutions.

Sad to say, Rosling died in 2017, at only 69 years old.  The World needs more people who can think as clearly as he did.

That man was brilliant, loved all his stuff

[This is actually a serious question]

21 hours ago, Richard Pope said:

The problem I said at the top is I very soon have to choose to either spend at least £7+k now on petrol only to scrap it in not very many years.

Yes, sorry, I was heading off piste. I have looked at this for the very same reasons as you. As someone else stated, just the bits to do the conversion today would probably set you back £20K-25K. And 4/5ths of that is split between the motor and the battery. A significant lump is for the adapter plate on the gear box housing where the electric motor bolts in. Most quotes I received were around the £40K mark - plus or minus a bit - for someone to do it for me. There's a lot of "first time" costs that should iron out in due course - like that adapter plate. Batteries will become cheaper and lighter (would weigh 350Kg+). And so will motors. Hence the suggestion to wait. If you convert today, you are paying first user premium. If you wait, the savings you should be able to make will be more than the costs of keeping the ICE going... Hopefully someone on here does it eventually and we get access to the purchased kit and pictures!! In my opinion. We have at least another 10-15 years of driving left with the straight 6. So i think your best bet is to fix up the ICE and that has the better payback over the longterm financially too.

[This is actually a serious question]

Cant disagree with anyone on here saying just stick with the current ICE. The costs of electric engines and batteries will come down massively over the next 5-10 years. But right now you are looking at £25K minimum for someone to do it for you, and you'll lose the engine notes. I would wait and wait and wait some more. As that economist man said “Things take longer to happen than you think they will, and then they happen faster than you thought they could.”

[GL4 EP80/90]

15 hours ago, DavidBee said:

This is refreshingly technical. Thank you, Owen W B and begs the question as to what product/s you personally would feel confident to recommend for use in a TR differential?

Ha! That is a really good question! I have only just got back into old Triumph's, this TR6 I have only had for a month and i havent done the service yet! Just been enjoying it now the sun is out. I just read the old service manual and it says use an SAE 90 viscosity GL4 in both axle and transmission. The more modern chemistries work at lower more concentrated treat rates and are a lot more "active" unless carefully formulated. There are products that can deliver both GL4 and GL5, but they are few and far between unless you wish to pay for chemistry you really dont need. I can understand the GL4 spec for the axle given the type of spiral bevel gear, the loading and the fluid change intervals are so low. . Key is servicing regularly (says the man who hasnt done it yet!). Something like Millers Oil Classic Gear Oil EP 80w90 GL4 looks about right. Castrol Classic EP 90. These are both GL4. I guess if i were going to hammer the final drive/axle I would go for a GL5 SAE 90 and go for the extra protection. But i would not put the GL5 in the gear box. The viscosity grade will be important. Dont go lower unless you are sure you know what you're doing.

[GL4 EP80/90]

Typically, both GL4 and GL5 oils use the same sulphur/phosporous chemistry - and the type of that S/P chemistry dictates how aggressive it is to yellow metals. The GL4 treat rate of the chemistry will usually be half the treat rate of the GL5, thus the GL5 will be more aggressive without additional mitigating chemistry.

But the GL5 gives the greatest protection - and is the typical baseline requirement for an axle.

GL4 is a transmission spec.

GL4 oils will not meet the requirements of load bearing and extreme pressure wear that a GL5 oil will meet.

If its just a GL5 oil, it wont meet the synchroniser performance needed to meet GL4 because it will be too active.

But there are many oils that will offer both GL4 and GL5 performance - and anything with MT-1 performance will have yellow metal passivators in it.

 

[Vacuum gauge levels seem low.... Any pointers appreciated]

16 hours ago, Mike C said:

My idle vacuum is 10" Hg. Always has been. The Pi system has been calibrated for this and the engine runs perfectly. Re the idle wobble- what speed is your idle set at? I set mine at 800-900 rpm to prevent pressure pulses and subsequent flutter of the throttle butterflies.

The engine is PI, sorry, should have said.

When i do the vacuum gauge stuff its around 750-800 if the rev counter is to be believed.

Advancing the timing gets the vac gauge up to 12, then backed it off to around 10.

Its cracking to drive!

But i had a triumph with a 2500 6 cyl PI and that could pull up to 15... so just thought I might have an issue.

Many thanks all for the comments!

[Vacuum gauge levels seem low.... Any pointers appreciated]

TR6 engine runs well enough, plugs all the right colour.

Just trying to run through basics and put vacuum pump on brake servo pipe outlet to check pull and timing.

Maximum suck i could get was around 12 inches... but i have had a 6 cyl engine pull 15 before.

12 doesnt seem very good.

Slight wobble on vacuum gauge needle too - not so massive but noticeable.

This TR6 is new to me, so just trying to work out if;

- i have a bigger issue (like needing the valve guides on the head done)

- i have used the wrong point to check the vacuum

- these levels are quite normal.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks Owen

[Lost power to indicators, fuel and temp gauges.... then found out why... doh!!]

Just a novice working through first TR6... should know about electrics really, used to have a Vitesse Mk2 back in the day.... I am afraid i started writing this, then did a search online, then discovered my spare fuses and tried those, and Bob is your uncle... for sure! As Jones would say "dont panic!"