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RobinC

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Posts posted by RobinC

  1. Derek,

    Thanks for the information on the various official TR6 documents - I think the piece of information that I was missing was the various ammendments to the 'Brown Bible.

    That said, there still appears to be information in AKM 3646 that I haven't seen elsewhere. The attached pdf is a scan of a couple of the photo-copied pages of AKM3646 that I do posess that provides detailed advance curves for the later distributors found on CR and CF cars.

    CR cars after CR2845 - Lucas part number 41542
    CF cars after CF12501  - Lucas part number 41558

    I haven't found any reference to these in 545277 / E2
    It just happened that I was looking for detals of these two ...

    Don't know if there is anything else extra in there ...

    Cheers, Robin C

    TR6_Distributor_Specs.pdf

  2. Am I correct in my belief that this (AKM3646 ) is the only publication that covers the later CR and CF TR6 variants in detail ?

    I have a few photo-copied pages that cover the later distributor advance curves etc which don't appear in the old 'Brown Bible' that's commonly available on the web in pdf format.

    Is anyone aware of a full pdf copy of this manual ?

    Cheers,
    Robin C

  3. It may be worth trying the high flow metal filter element available for the Sytec 'Billet' filter supplied with the Prestige kit. The standard filter is supplied with a paper element ( 55micron ). The high flow metal filter element is a coarse 8 micron filter. Finer particles are dealt with by the Bosch post-pump filter.

    The high flow element is available here : https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/high-flow-metal-filter-element-for-sytec-bullet-filters-bulla02   or  here: https://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/sytec-bullet-fuel-filter-replacement-hi-flow-metal-element-bulla02-1919-p.asp

    Alternatively just google for 'BULLA02 filter element'

    Cheers, 
    Robin C

  4. 14 hours ago, Mike C said:

    Sorting out the MU and injectors is best done on an original Lucas calibration bench or similar. I don't have one so I send the equipment to someone that does rather than fiddle with it myself.

    Hi Mike,

    Just curious as to where you find someone with a Lucas calibration bench ( and requisite skills ... ) in Melbourne ?

    I had my MU rebuilt and calibrated about 30 yrs ago by a guy in Perth, but I don't believe he any longer has the equipment.

    Cheers, Robin C 

       

  5. OK, so some additional research around Porsche & VW forums reveals that the 'correct' hose for use with the 12mm Bosch inlet spigot is a metric 11.5mm I/D hose.

    So far, the only manufacturer for this hose that I have been able to identify is Cohline (German ? ). Product ID 2240.1019
    It appears to be available from several suppliers in the UK, but several seem to show 'out of stock'
    These people appear to have it in stock https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/115mm-id-12100-bio-fuel-hose-diesel--petrol-22401019-2016-p.asp

    Next nearest thing seems to be Codan (Danish ?) who do an 11.0mm hose - looks like that could be available locally here in AU.

    I guess I'm not quite so concerned about permeability, since I currently have that hose external. 

    Anyway, thought that was interesting, but it doesn't sound like anyone else is experienceing this issue

  6. Quote

    Robin, if you really are using a Jubilee-style hose clamp then that may be your problem. In my experience they don't apply a uniform compression around a hose. Worse still, they're absolutely pants if you re-use them. I would suggest you try a pukka fuel hose clip or, if you can get one small enough, a Mikalor-style clamp.

    Richard,  I think you may well be onto something with the type of clamps
    - I did originally consider looking for a better quality clamp, but it subsequently slipped my mind and I just went with what had always worked before ....

    I am now pretty convinced that the newer Ethanol resistant hoses are less elastic and thus a lot less forgiving than the older rubber hoses.

    It looks like a lot of the 'mini' clamps that are sold as 'EFI fuel clamps'  don't go up to a large enough size for the 12mm / 1/2" hose.
    What does anyone reckon about these for the job ?  https://www.autopartswholesalers.com.au/products/hose-clamps/norma/normaclamp-gbs-heavy-duty-hose-clamps/normaclamp-gbs-heavy-duty-hose-clamps

    Unless there's any negative opinions or better alternatives, I will go ahead and order some of these.

    Thanks for all of the input to date
    Robin C.

  7. Quote

    How old is your Bosch 909 pump and what is the full Bosch part number? As Malcom has not been using genuine Bosch pumps for a good number of years and has been using look a likes for at least 5 years or more?

    Bruce,

    You are correct, the kit was originally supplied by Malcolm, probably 20 years ago, with a genuine Bosch 0 580 254 909 pump.
    However, I had to replace it several years back and was unable to source the same Bosch pump at the time, so the current pump is in fact a Sytec OTP020 which is physically identical with the 909. In particular, the input connection is a 12mm push-on spigot exactly as per the 909 pump ( refer to attached Bosh spec for the 909 ).

    Mike,

    I have no issues with the high pressure side, with the pump to PRV hose being braided PTFE hose as supplied by Malcolm ( together with diaphragm PRV .... )

    On the low pressure side (Tank to Pump inlet) I am having problems getting both the Tank to pre-filter hose to seal to the 3/8 brass barb fitting on the pre-filter
    and also the pre-filter to pump hose to seal to the 12 mm pump input push-on connection.
    There is no immediately visible leak, but  when left to stand for 24hrs there is an oily deposit left as a drip forming under the hose joints. 
    ( It could be that the oily deposit orriginates from the lead replacement additive that I typically use ... )

    The pump input connection is of particular concern due to the mismatch between the 1/2" hose and the 12mm spigot.

    I have it all in pieces again at the moment to try again with fresh hose and maybe double jubilee clips.

    Thanks,

    Rob

     

     

     

      

     

  8. Since upgrading to modern E85 resistant hose a la Gates Barricade, I have been experienceing considerable grief in getting the low pressure feed from the tank to the bosch pump fuel tight. The various hose joints continue to weep very slightly however I clamp them. This is not an issue that I have previously encountered with older rubber hoses.

    The setup is basically a Prestige kit with a Bosch 909 type pump relocated to the rear wheelarch rather than inside the spare wheel well..

    In particular the Bosch 909 pump has a 12mm inlet spigot and the 1/2" hose (nominally 12.7mm) is a fairly loose fit, so I guess it's not a huge surprise that it's not easy to get a fuel tight joint pulling it up with a jubilee clip.  Curiously, the Bosch spec that I have for the 909 pump specifies the inlet connection as " 12mm (3/8"). Does that imply that the expectation is to force a 3/8" hose over the 12mm spigot ? What hose size do others use on the Bosch pumps with this connection ?

    Curious to know if anyone else has experienced this kind of issue with the Gates Barricade hose.

    Cheers,

    Robin C

     

  9. Hi Gavin,

    I’m afraid I can’t offer any immediate solution – just commiserations …

    I thought it might just be worth sharing my own similar experiences from ‘across the ditch’, to see if there is anything to be learned ….

    I have, over the past few months, just rebuilt and fitted a J-Type (28%) from a 2500 Saloon, to my previously non-overdrive TR6. The rebuild included replacing all of the o-rings/seals and also a replacement Cone Clutch from the aforementioned Overdrive Repair Services.

    I have so far covered only a couple of hundred kms, but I was similarly surprised by the harshness of engagement ( given that the J-Type is reputed to be much ‘softer’ than the old A-Type ). I am still experimenting with different engagement techniques, but still cannot achieve a consistently smooth change without the clutch.

    At this stage, I had put it down to the new cone clutch grabbing a bit, and was going to wait and see if it improves once it gets a few more kms on it.

    Not having previously driven an overdrive car more than a couple of kms, I wasn’t sure whether there was really an issue or not. However, your post struck a chord ….

    I guess one significant point is that the symptom does not appear to be unique to your particular clutch friction material ….

    I am currently using Castrol VMX-M which is a 75W-85 GL4 Manual Transmission Oil

    To quote Castrol Australia Web site :

    FEATURES & BENEFITS

    - Provides quieter transmission operation

    - Easier low temperature gear shifting – driver comfort

    - Improved gear tooth and bearing durability

    - Effective lubrication over a wide range of operating temperatures

    - High shear stability providing excellent protection during the life of the lubricant

    SPECIFICATIONS

    - Mitsubishi TGO-2

    - SAE 75W (extrapolated) 85W (equivalent to 10W-30)

    - API Service Classification GL-4

    I am somewhat bemused by the theory that the viscosity of EP80 or EP90 Gear oil results in excessively high pressure in the overdrive. ( I think this may have originated from some testing carried out by a US specialist .. ).

    As I understand it, Gear Oils and Engine Oils use a different SAE viscosity scale, such that an SAE85 Gear Oil is similar in viscosity to an SAE30 Engine Oil and SAE90 is about equivalent to SAE40 in an Engine oil.

    This seems to be consistent with Castrol’s specification above.

    I can’t see much scope for using anything thinner, since I suspect the gearbox is generally more fragile than the overdrive.

    Cheers,

    RobinC

     

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