Gareth Davies
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Posts posted by Gareth Davies
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thanks to all
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Hi
The lock assembly on the drivers door on my TR4A is rattling quite badly. I thinks its riveted so I cannot investigate without potentially destroying it. I have rung around the main Tr suppliers but drawn a blank with used items. My striker plates(nylon pad) on both doors are pretty worn as well.Anybody suggest anybody I probably have not tried
Thanks for any comments
Gareth
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Hi
- I have a TR4A with the Moss Europe rear crank seal. the seal goes quite quickly and leaking commences. Can anyone suggest an upgraded seal supplier or another solution. I am waiting for Moss to come back to me to confirm they have an "upgraded" seal which may be possible according to the London office.
- For the gearbox with overdrive, any there any better seals than the standard paper ones. I read somewhere that there was a company supplying urethane seals for rocker and sump gaskets. Any body heard of this. Overdrive Repair Services in Sheffields rebuilt the whole thing a few years ago and did a nice job of it but its now beginning to leak.
Just getting some ideas before I decide to anything bout it. I have had a lot of "It's a TR - they leak oil"
Thanks for any comments suggestions
Gareth
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Just to say thanks again to you all for the guidance. My rear screen is fitted and looks great
Gareth
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Many thanks both
I will talk to the fitter next week
gareth
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I need some help please if you can
1. I have a 1966 TR4A with an original surrey. It is metal and glass not a repro. During restoration the glass was removed and the seal disintegrated. The glass is a pretty good fit with the frame without the seal as you would expect. I am now rebuilding the car
2. I bought a seal from Rimmer which a local windscreen company( who does lots of classics- he also fitted the new windscreen seal without issues on the day) tried to fit He says the seal is too big and it certainly will not fit on the glass.. Rimmer says it is the correct part. Since I bought it over a year ago, they will not take it back. I attach a photo
3. I bought another seal from Baines and the same problem
Questions
1. Can anybody give me some pointers on what I am am missing if it is the correct part
2. Where can I get a another seal
Thanks
gareth
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Thanks pete
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When mounting the body back onto the chassis what is the normal practice for the position of the rubber and c- Aluminium spacers i.e. Rubber to chassis or to body. Does it matter? In some line diagrams on line I have seen rubber washers shown on either side of c washer.
does it make any sense to glue any of the rubber washers to chassis to keep them in position when mounting the body?
can anybody give me some ideas on what is best practice?
thanks
Gareth
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Thanks, I will use more force to get the pipe out of the chassis and run it somwhere similar to the Moss catalogue once I have a closer look
gareth
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Thanks Stuart- does run through the chassis at the back or over it in some way? Pity I cannot find a photo or a good line diagram to help me- never done this on TR before
Also. I want to insert a fuel filter somewhere. The one fitted to mine ( a retro fit I suppose was on the line along the chassis near the front. I will probably try an fit it in the engine bay somewhere
many thanks
gareth
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Replacing fuel line along chassis- I have a TR4A 1966 where the copper fuel line from the tank (joined to tank fitting by short rubber hose jubilee clipped) runs through the chassis in a rubber hose)just below the diff mount and then out on to the opposite side of the chassis that the brake lines run along. Is this normal, all the posts I have read don't seem to mention this set up. Also I am finding it very difficult to pull the fuel through- have not used brute force yet. I have all the other pipes off. Anybody have any comments on this set up.
i can only find a pictorial representation on the Moss website which appears different to mine
gareth
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Thanks for the suggestions
gareth
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Hi
I am taking the body off my TR4A and I am looking to brace the door openings before staring. Anybody know where I can buy some or have some ideas on what to use
thanks
gareth
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stuart - in case you did not get my last message
Thanks for all the help - just waiting for th glue to arrive
Gareth
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Stuart
Thanks to all who posted - it's been very helpful. I have now fitted up the rails into the new headliner and had a dry run but can I check a couple of things
Stuart - just a question on the front rail- you say to put the rail under the sprung springs so if I am looking from the front they would sit on the roof and would behind the curled lip and then be pulled against the lip as you tension the front headliner and glue it or do they sit on the sprong itself and inside that lip which seems to the right fit for the rail
How do you clamp the rear when I get that far or do you rely on the glue. I can clamp the front but not the rear
another question on the rear foam rubber seal. On mine this seal was so badly damaged, I cannot recognise the section design. The new one I have has a definite section with a lip on it so must go on a certain way.Any suggestions or I will just choose what seems probable
Gareth
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Thanks for posting Rob, I've got some bull dog clips
gareth
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Stuart/ Nigel
Thanks to both of you
Gareth
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Thanks Stuart - one other question. When the kit came it was folded and there are some creases in it which look like they will disappear under tension, any thoughts on trying to remove these before fitting with a warmish iron?
thanks
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Hello
I am fitting a new headlining kit to my TR4A Hardtop for the Surrey. The old one has fell to pieces and came off easily.
I am looking for some help/ advice and how to fit the new one, is there a particular way to fit it, greeting the tension in. I have loosely fitted the new item to the roof so I know how it all fits together. Any comments or help would be appreciated
thanks
Gareth
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Thanks for the replies, I tried for the best of a day to twist, tilt and lever them out but did not manage it so I must be missing something. It was my first time so that's possible. Anyway, it's finished now with minimal damage, in fact you would not notice unless you knew.
once again thanks
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Hi Roger - thanks for reminding me!
Anyway, just to let you and Pete know, I have replaced the first check arm. I had to twist the panel back by about 3/4 mm and that did the trick in terms of giving enough clearance. Once I put the new check harm, I tapped the panel back into position with a small hammer and once painted it will not be noticeable and it's behind the kick panel anyway,
cheers
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I had to put my hammer down and sleep on it!! I hope the rivets holding the guide slot in don't have to come out as it looks a tricky job to put the new ones in. I will have another look tomorrow. rimmer website has a good drawing if you do not have a detailed workshop manual with all drawings
gareth
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I had to put my hammer down and sleep on it!! I hope the rivets holding the guide slot in don't have to come out as it looks a tricky job to put the new ones in. I will have another look tomorrow. rimmer website has a good drawing if you do not have a detailed workshop manual with all drawings
gareth
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Thanks Roger, I have released and pushed back into the A post it but can't seem to withdraw it as there is not enough clearance unless I use brute force maybe
gareth
Rear Crankshaft Seal - Moss Land rover mod
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
thanks to all again
gareth