Geofftaylor
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Posts posted by Geofftaylor
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What gearbox oil is recommended for a TR3 with O/D? I have had a good look on the internet and there are numerous schools of thought and numerous ideas on this subject. The manual states that engine oil is suitable but I know that this was changed to a thicker grade.
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On 11/30/2022 at 2:24 PM, david ferry said:
Geoff,
I have a spare pair of the Revington TR seats available. I have these in my TR3 and they fit well. The headrests are removeable so the tonneau cover still works as it should.
See here Revington seat and here Revington seat headrest.
The ones I have desperately need recovering following mouse nibbling. I was going to get this done, but have never needed to do so.
Consequently, they are available to you for a relatively modest sum, which I will donate to my local food bank.
Given the mouse nibbles (they could be used as is), they could be perfect for what you're wanting to do.
If you're interested, do let me know. PM or reply here is good.
David
Hi David.
I could well be very interested in your Revington seats. Whatever seats I end up with I intend to get the seats recovered so no issues there. Not wanting to look a gift seat in the mouth could you possibly send me a picture of the seats. Also where are you and what sort of money are you thinking about? My email is geoffreyht1066@outlook.com
cheers Geoff.
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I know this might offend the purist but after owning my 3A for 16 years I want to improve and add a bit more safety to the seats. I know the existing seats are relatively narrow but I understand that Mazda MX5 seats are a good fit. Anyone out there who can recommend a decent high backed seat which would fit into the 3A. I am not put off by modifying the seat runners etc. I am looking for second hand seats (Already had a look on eBay) which I will get recovered to match my interior trim. Thanks in advance.
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Following an engine rebuild I am now experiencing smoking on start up and consuming more oil than I ever have. The bore was 100% round and on size as standard but had new rings fitted. The head was professionally rebuilt with hardened valve seats. The performance is great but this smoking is annoying. I was slightly concerned that the new head gasket fitted looked a bit iffy and coupled with this I am loosing a bit of water too. Does anyone think that the issue could be the head gasket weeping?
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My 3A has been running very rich for a while so I decided to carry out a full overhaul of the twin SU H6’s. There is no improvement and the car is still running very rich even with the jet screwed up tight and level with the face of the carb casing. Needles are set properly, float level set properly. Cant fathom this one! Any ideas?
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Thanks George,
By coincidence I was actually looking and wondering if a Ford Focus unit might do the trick.
Geoff
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Some years ago I fitted an electric pump on my 3A but have never fitted a fuel cut off inertia switch. I am now thinking I should. Does anyone have any recommendations as to what switch is best suited?
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Thanks everyone for your input but I finally tracked down the cam information on the moss website. Nothing came with the cam. The inlet timing is 31 before TDC 67 ABDC and the install point is 108 degrees ATDC. I will be going ahead using this data.
Cheers Geoff
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Good day,
I have just replaced the camshaft in my 3A and am in the process of setting up the valve timing. I have used the time honoured method utilising a timing wheel and mechanical stop to exactly determine No1 TDC. I now intend to set No1 inlet at max lift and install the chain. My question / issue is: the valve timing diagram I have from the manual shows the inlet valve opening 15 degrees BTDC and closing 55 degrees ABDC. Thus a duration of 250 degrees. This means the cam lobe for No1 inlet is at its highest 110 degrees ATDC. The new cam spec, which is sold as a basic road cam, has a duration of 278 degrees and thus to maintain the max lift point at 110 degrees ATDC the No1 inlet valve starts to open 14 degrees earlier at 29 degrees BTDC. Can anybody confirm my maths as I only want to do this once.
Thanks in advance Geoff
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In case anyone is interested the fault on my 3A causing blowback through the front carb was due to a worn cam lobe. Cylinder 1 exhaust was worn quite badly but cylinder 2 exhaust was almost round! The photos show a nice lobe and a very not nice lobe! Prior to discovering this, blaming poor valves, I had refurbished the cylinder head and only noticed the poor valve opening when adjusting the tappet clearances when my head was at eye level with the rockers. My other hand was up inside the wheel arch turning the engine over using my precision made one man crank turning device. (I have no crank handle hole in my radiator now opting for improved cooling over this function).
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Following an odd fault in my 3A which I thought was caused by a valve problem I have just overhauled the cylinder head. The initial fault was a severe spitting back through the front carburettor. Unfortunately, whilst reduced, I still have the fault! When setting the tappers I noticed that a couple of the rockers, including No1 exhaust did not depress as much as the other valves. I am now leaning towards a worn camshaft. Anyone have any comments? Could this have caused the initial problem. ie exhaust valve not opening fully. Having just put it all back together I’m not too buoyant right now.
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Hi all,
Thanks for all the input. The firing order is definitely correct and I now agree that the fault does not lie with the SU’s. I would be surprised if it is a valve as I have had the head off and they are all free in the guides and good contact on the seats. I won’t rule this out however. I did gap the tappets when replacing the head but will do this again along with a plug change and distributor check. The car doesn’t have points which have been replaced with Luminition ignition but the spark is good so don’t suspect that.
Geoff
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On 6/21/2019 at 11:27 AM, RobH said:
Bear in mind you may be being misled; because the noise seems to be coming from the front you are assuming the rear one is correct but perhaps its that one which isn't lifting enough....?
A duff plug or misfire due to electrics should be evident in a loss of power.
I am now leaning very much towards the problem being on the other side of the block involving the ignition system. I had all of the plugs out cleaned and out back and the chance that they all went back in the same cylinder is low but possible. I intend to start at the plugs and work backwards. I have attached a very short clip, 4.9mb doesn’t give you much, of the noise.
Geoff
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10 hours ago, RobH said:
Possibly - or dynamo bearing perhaps? Worth trying with the fan-belt off?
11 hours ago, Peter Cobbold said:Try swapping the dashpot damper rods, the one on the front SU might not be damping piston lift despite oil present.
Peter
Hi guys,
it is a bit more than pinking. I’ve had the timing set across a wide range with no difference.
Geoff
I’m contemplating putting some thicker oil in the damper as the piston does seem to be lifting significantly higher than the other carburettor. I will try swapping the dampers. I’ll try most things now! The odd thing is that I’ve run this car for years with nothing going wrong I couldn’t fathom until now. I am now also thinking that the carburettor is just where the noise is manifesting itself and not the source. It’s not a bearing noise.
Geoff
Hi Peter,
thank you for taking so much trouble to expand your explanation with diagrams which are very comprehensive and interesting. I will have another go this morning and try changing the damper pistons as suggested. I am also contemplating changing the carburettors over to see it the problem moves but this is a fiddly job as all the linkages will need to be changed. It will however determine if the problem is elsewhere. I plod on.
Geoff
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1 hour ago, RobH said:
Possibly - or dynamo bearing perhaps? Worth trying with the fan-belt off?
2 hours ago, Peter Cobbold said:Try swapping the dashpot damper rods, the one on the front SU might not be damping piston lift despite oil present.
Peter
Hi guys,
it is a bit more than pinking. I’ve had the timing set across a wide range with no difference.
Geoff
I’m contemplating putting some thicker oil in the damper as the piston does seem to be lifting significantly higher than the other carburettor. I will try swapping the dampers. I’ll try most things now! The odd thing is that I’ve run this car for years with nothing going wrong I couldn’t fathom until now. I am now also thinking that the carburettor is just where the noise is manifesting itself and not the source. It’s not a bearing noise.
Geoff
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Hi guys,
it is a bit more than pinking. I’ve had the timing set across a wide range with no difference.
Geoff
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Hi Rob,
Apologies for being a bit vague but I was slowly determining the source by a process of elimination. I initially sounded like it was an exhaust problem and consequently dismantled and reassembled the whole system carefully but the noise continued. I then checked the manifold to head gasket. All was good.
The reason I was blaming the front (1&2) carb was, with the air cleaners off and revving the engine whilst looking into the carbs the front one seemed to be the source of the noise. The noise isn’t irregular and, on hard acceleration, sounds like an old tractor going up a hill or a raucous motor cycle engine. (It is a tractor engine but doesn’t normally sound like that!). It can be mimicked to a lesser extent when revving the engine whilst the vehicle is static.
The exhaust is tubular stainless. 4 into 2 and the 2 into 1 and then onwards out the back. I am wondering if I am looking in the right place. I am normally pretty good at finding faults but this one is getting me quite frustrated. I did wonder if I was getting spark failure at one plug but haven’t taken that further yet.
I have taken a short video but it is obviously more than the 4.9 mb allowed! All suggestions gratefully received.
Geoff.
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That was my very first idea Rob. Eliminated a couple of days ago.
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1 minute ago, RobH said:
Lack of damper oil will make the mixture lean, not rich. The purpose of the oil damper is to make the mixture richer by delaying the rise of the piston during acceleration and maximising the suction in the venturi. Could the piston be sticking down perhaps?
I have been messing with the carbs this morning and looking at the oil level was one of the first things I checked. Both pistons are lifting on acceleration and, using the screwdriver lift method, seems to be pretty much near enough set to the correct mixture. The noise seems to emit from the front carburettor and sounds like a diesel when accelerating hard in low gears. Maybe the problem lies elsewhere but following a head off rebuild I am struggling now. The car is running very well when cruising.
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Thanks for your input. I will check the needle centering. Can’t see why it would have moved since assembly quite some time back but you never know. Dashpots do have oil.
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My front SU started to make what sounded to be a backfire under hard acceleration. I decided after a lot of messing about it could be due to valves so took off the head and gave it a decoke (it needed it) and ground in the valves. All looked good. All reassembled, tappers done, timing done, carbs balanced .... no difference. I still have the tractor sound on acceleration which drops right back once cruising. Any ideas.
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I will make a fuel change tomorrow. It is a high possibility because nothing else has changed and I have checked the timing and carbs and they are near enough.
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Hi all, thanks for your input. I have been through the entire exhaust system, including checking and thus changing the manifold to head gaskets, and all is well. There is a possibility that the knocking could be fuel related as I did use a different fuel recently. I will revert to my usual fuel and see what happens. I am at a bit of a loss with this one.
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My 3A has developed a strange raucous noise on hard acceleration. It initially sounded like an exhaust manifold leak but it isnt. It occurs mainly in low gears at pull away but disappears once cruising. Any suggestions before I start wasting my time?
Gearbox oil recommendations.
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Thanks to all.
Penrite has been ordered.
cheers Geoff