richardb
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Posts posted by richardb
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hi tim, no worries ref delay, playing with our cars is much more fun:-) thanks for pics. since my last post the LED strip that is reported as being adheisve on the screen side has appeared. for the sake of 10 quid i have orderd one, but i am not sure it is how it seems, as they sugest not washing the car within 24 hours of fitting it, and why would that be an issue if it were inside? anyway i will report once it arrives, and if all else fails i will use the clear double sided sticky i have to stick the LED side to the rear screen. i will report on progress. cheers richard
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hi Hamish, that car strip strip looks promising, i have emailed the suppliers to enquire the length of cable between LED strip and the plug, as long as i can get it down to the panel behind the B post it will look neat, the pictures appear to show two different lengths. and i was going to fit a combined rear/brake/indicator cluster to the back of my Triumph speed triple, but got a heads up from a friendly MOT tester that the combined ind/light clusters were about to be made illegal, so saved myself about 100 quid! will keep you posted on the car strips cheers richard
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hi Hamish, ta for the link, i had seen that and thought the same thing about its bulk so will probably discount it. not sure yet if i want to use a strip of LEDs as oposed to a custom made hi level light, from what i can see the spacing and therefore intensity of the LEDs on the strip is much lower than custom made, but which ever way i go i think i am going to need to fabricate a bracket of some sort to mount it on. cheers richard
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Hi Tim, i have a 4a with a surrey rear screen and am looking to fit a hi level brake light, would be interested to knpw what you used and how you fitted it please. cheers richard
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2 minutes ago, stuart said:
As standard there is no relay for J type overdrives, they draw a lot less current.
Stuart.
thats useful to know thanks Stuart
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Hi DRD, thats great many thanks, the A type with relay seems to match what i have, so now i will get in the leg tunnell and figure out what is going on. interestingly the J type wiring shows that the full load of the solenoid is passing through the OD switch (and OD logic box), rather than being switched via a relay. i guess, but dont know that the solenoid on the J type must draw a lot less current. thanks again for your help. cheers richard
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Hi DRD, many thanks for the diag, it looks like this uses the momentary switch rather than the original on off version i have. i understand from old posts on this forum that were 2 versions, to suit both types of switch, not sure what the wiring differences may be so if anyone has a diagramm for using the original on/off switch that would be great
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i am happy with the original switch but have an intermittant fault on the trinda where sometimes it does not disengae o/d when changing gear. to help diagnose the problem i want to wire in the indicator (not currently installed) so i can see what the box is doing thus showing if its the box at fault or something else sticking, but without a wiring diag.........
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hi, i too have a trinda logic box and retain the original on/off column switch rather than the momentary one, the TR4A was fitted with it when i bought it. does anyone have a wiring diagram for the box, and any other info as to its internal operation would be helpful as well, thanks in advince, cheers richard
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mine came from Moss and also had too much curve, but as i was fitting it to a honeybourne rear screen assumed the problem lay with that, it seems i was wrong!
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thanks for your comments, further investigation needed:-)
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hi all, i have fitted a Honeybourne rear screen and am in the process of fitting a soft surrey (from John Skinner), the rear attachment is fine but i am not sure about the front. i am using the front header from a soft-top to give a secure and easier fixing but am a bit concerned about the amount of material needing to pass under the header rail where the surrey is 4 layers thick at its reinforced edge. anyone got any tips on this please? also i have found the near side A pillar is raked back more than the OS, the passenger door glass has always hit the A post which i thought was to do with window movement but now realise otherwise. i have slacked off the 3 bolts, (2 just forward of the open door and 1 inside, above the tube holding the screen bolt) held the screen forward with a broom handle wedged to floor pan, and then tightened bolts but after an hour or so the pillar moves back, and i am wary of over tightening the bolts; again any guidance greatfully received
many thanks in advance Richard
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Hi Jase, welcome to TRR, another way of overcoming the bonnet issue is to run a second cable alonside the original which is made off to the release lever under the bonnet, when the original fails a pair of pliers/mole grips on the spare cable will release the bonnet. and something that will help put less strain on the release mechanism generally is to push down on the bonnet just above the release mech whilst your left hand pulls the release under the dash. this takes the load of the spring mech and with the drivers door window down this is easily achieved
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hi, Harry, below my previous post regarding insurance, assuming u are with A plan of course. also classic car LED now sell a warm white LED which is less obvious as an LED, so less likely to get attention from the MOT tester, i have the warm whites and am very happy with their look and performance.
Hi all, i have been looking at fitting LED headlights and have been reading with interest. however i could not find a statement from A Plan on this so spoke to Peter Barrett just now and he has sent me this statement which he has asked i post:
I have had the below confirmed by Richard Bauckham (Specialist Motor Underwriter KGM Insurance) as follows:
“We are happy to confirm that we have no issues with LED replacement bulbs and this will not affect the insurance in any way, provided that the bulbs fitted are of the equivalent or higher rating (watts to lumens) than the standard fitment bulbs.”
This does not indicate that they are legal but does mean that your insurance will not be invalidated by fitting them.
Please note this excludes the fitment of angel eye style headlamps.
Peter Barrett | Cherished Vehicle Insurance Manager
A-Plan Insurance | Worcester
2 Foregate Street, Worcester WR1 1DBt: 01905 930740
e: Peter.Barrett@aplan.co.uk
w: www.aplan.co.uk
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i also fitted the classic car LED power packs outside the shell using the extensions that came with, and cable tied them to the wiring loom serving the headlights. i had to make the holes in the shell slightly larger but sealed them with black mastic, and also retained duct sheilds/doughnuts
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Hi all, i have been looking at fitting LED headlights and have been reading with interest. however i could not find a statement from A Plan on this so spoke to Peter Barrett just now and he has sent me this statement which he has asked i post:
I have had the below confirmed by Richard Bauckham (Specialist Motor Underwriter KGM Insurance) as follows:
“We are happy to confirm that we have no issues with LED replacement bulbs and this will not affect the insurance in any way, provided that the bulbs fitted are of the equivalent or higher rating (watts to lumens) than the standard fitment bulbs.”
This does not indicate that they are legal but does mean that your insurance will not be invalidated by fitting them.
Please note this excludes the fitment of angel eye style headlamps.
Peter Barrett | Cherished Vehicle Insurance Manager
A-Plan Insurance | Worcester
2 Foregate Street, Worcester WR1 1DBt: 01905 930740
e: Peter.Barrett@aplan.co.uk
w: www.aplan.co.uk
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current bike is a Triumph, of course, a 2015 speedtriple R, previous have been an earlier speed, T595, suziki GS1000, GSX1100ESD, honda 400/4 Mk1, BSA A65T, Triumph tiger cub (many of them) and first was an Ariel Red Hunter 350, c/w a sidecar as i was on a provisional
Spitfire driver killed in blameless crash
in TRs Out and About
Posted
Hi tim, the LED strip arrived today and the double sided sticky is indeed on the LED side so it will stick on the inside of the rear screen. the strip has a curve on it which causes the DS sticky to ruck up when straightened but as clear DS sticky is available replacing it if needed is not a problem. the wire from the end of the strip is around a metre long so enough to get behind trim panels neatly, once i have offered it up to the car and played about a bit more i will report further