Efuentes
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Posts posted by Efuentes
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I think that, if the issue was the thermostat stuck in the closed position (ie: with water circulating only within the engine and not passing through the radiator), then there would have been no overflow in the overflow bottle, which is connected to the radiator…
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Not sure if I have misunderstood the situation or the circumstances around it, but, if you have an electric fan that is not connected with a thermostatic switch(ie: it has to be manually activated rather than staring on its own beyond a certain temperature), and the car is static, that is, idling, at some point in time it will overheat if the fan is not connected, specially if it does not have the mechanical fan. In other words, without a fan, without the car moving,it will eventually overheat, regardless of the outside temperature
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11 hours ago, stuart said:
If its anything its not the dust seals its the piston seals.
Stuart.
On 11/20/2023 at 12:25 AM, Efuentes said:This is the thread that talked about the dust seals being too rigid and pushing pistons back in, as well as other possible causes long brake pedal travel
Michel, before making such a supposedly smart remark, please read the thread I attached. It’s generally useful to read properly before commenting. While the first comment says it’s the caliper piston seals, in a later one, the commenter acknowledges he refers to the dust seals… May I add that, even if there was not such clarification, anyone that has dismantled the caliper and seen it, would understand that it would be extremely unlikely that the caliper seal, which is essentially a rubber ring with a rectangular section that seals against the sidewall of the piston, would push the pistons in, whereas if the the dust seals, that attach to the top edge of the piston, are too rigid and, therefore, hard to extend, that creates a force that pushes pistons in…
Hi, Stuart. I have not experienced the problem but, from the thread I attach above, it seems that it is the dust seals that cause the issue. If you read the thread, you will see that the person that pointed to the piston seals acknowledges that he meant the dust seals. As I also point in the attached comment, it is difficult to see why the piston seals would push the pistons in, as they only press the pistons in the sidewall (if at all, they would make the movement of the pistons hard, but not push them in), whereas, if the dust seals are too rigid and hard to extend, with them being attached to the top of the piston, I can imagine that they would exert a force that would push the end of the piston back into the caliper… in other words, it makes sense to me that it is the dust seals and it does not that it would be the piston seals, and the attached thread supports that view…
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13 hours ago, david c said:
Well back to the TR today, bled the brakes for the 4th time..................it really has made no difference, except that I now have a an empty new one litre bottle of DOT4 and one full bottle of DOT 4 that I have to get rid of.
The new dust boots idea sounds plausible ( I bought mine from Rimmer Bros,) failing that I really am out of ideas, Am I expecting too much? do other members brakes have much free travel before you can feel the pads contact the disks.
Thanks all for your time and patience, David
But, were you able to see if the pads are almost in contact with the disks?. If they are not, your issue may be the dust seals. If they are (you should see no visible gap, but the wheel should be able to turn), then the issue is either air in the system or, potentially, rear brake adjuster issues
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I have read that the TR4 chassis is more rigid and has not the problem of the TR4A chassis by which the front and rear ends bend downwards, causing funny door gaps where the gap opens up at the upper part of the door
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This is the thread that talked about the dust seals being too rigid and pushing pistons back in, as well as other possible causes long brake pedal travel
Michel, before making such a supposedly smart remark, please read the thread I attached. It’s generally useful to read properly before commenting. While the first comment says it’s the caliper piston seals, in a later one, the commenter acknowledges he refers to the dust seals… May I add that, even if there was not such clarification, anyone that has dismantled the caliper and seen it, would understand that it would be extremely unlikely that the caliper seal, which is essentially a rubber ring with a rectangular section that seals against the sidewall of the piston, would push the pistons in, whereas if the the dust seals, that attach to the top edge of the piston, are too rigid and, therefore, hard to extend, that creates a force that pushes pistons in…
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This is the thread that talked about the dust seals being too rigid and pushing pistons back in, as well as other possible causes long brake pedal travel
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Hi, David. Did you take a look at the brake pads?. What’s the veredict?
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Sorry, I meant vibrations due to an unbalanced wheel
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OK, so I understand that you have pressure in the master cylinder, but the brake travel has increased… I am not sure that the issue is the travel before the pads contact the discs, as, normally, once you have pressed them against the brake, they should not come back all the way (for example, when the brake pads wear out, the pedal travel does not increase that much). There may be circumstances where that separation can happen, if there is aggressive driving in a bumpy road, i rations due to an unbalanced wheel or if the brake disk is not straight, but that’s uncommon. I believe that there was a valve in the brake distributor fixture (a piece where the hose coming from the master cylinder splits into the two hoses for the front wheel and a hose for the rear wheel) to prevent the pads going back, but it creates more problems than it solves, so most owners remove it (my car didn’t have it), which is also a sign that the pads going back all the way is not something that should happen normally. I would be inclined to think that you may still have some air trapped in the system and, as air is compressible, you need to press the pedal more than if there would be no air. There are other participants in this forum that have much more know how than me, but I would try a proper bleeding.
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Hi, David. I refurbished one caliper some years ago as the other one seemed to work perfectly, and I have recently refurbished the other, as the car was steering to one side when braking. While the first time everything went great, this second time I had the issue that, after the change of caliper pistons, my brake pedal was going down all the way and no matter how much I pumped, I was not getting fluid pressure from the master cylinder, so I could not bleed the brakes (even if I pushed the pedal repeatedly, I never got fluid out from the caliper bleeder). I remembered that I had an easy bleed type brake bleeder, which essentially is a hand vacuum pump that you plug, with an intermediate receptacle, to the bleeder in the caliper. You then apply vacuum and open the bleeder and repeat until you get fluid out. It worked and I managed to get pressure at the pedal. You can get those cheaply at Amazon. I attach a picture
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Given that currently, and not for long, is TR4 time in Spain (that is, weather not too hot to drive the TR4), that I have an excursion planned for this weekend and that I have no time before the excursion to tackle the gearbox switches issue, I was thinking of temporarily bypassing the Gearbox switches so I can use the car this weekend. I normally only use OD in 4th gear and will put a sticker in the dashboard to remind me to disconnect it before I engage reverse or 1st gear. I do have an OD on indicator light, which is key. Should I forget to disengage OD when on the road, is there any risk if I bypass the switches and I reduce to 3rd gear from 4th?. I have done that some times in the past, but, while the light stayed on, I am not sure if the OD disengages temporarily automatically when changing gears (ie: disengage when I move the gear lever, and engage again when the new gear is selected), which would not happen if I bypass the switches or if it remains on. If it does disengage, is there damage risk if I change gears with the OD on?.
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3 hours ago, RobH said:
Second half of this video shows the actual wiring. I don't think you will get at it without taking the transmission cover off.
That’s very useful, thank you. It looks like the black wire goes from the switch to the front, presumably to an earth connection in the body of the car, above the bellhousing. I agree it looks like a transmission cover off work… I will peep from underneath and from the engine compartment to see if I have any luck…
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On 6/20/2021 at 11:49 AM, keith1948 said:
Simple tools you could even use at the roadside such as a short piece of tube just wider than the bush and just longer. Put a threaded rod through the tube and bush. Washer on one end smaller diameter than bush and nut behind the washer. On the other end the tube and a big washer bigger diameter than the tube (or use a bit of flat metal with a hole in it. Another nut and then tighten both nuts. The old bush will be pulled into the tube. To fit the new bush put it into the tube and have the smaller washer and nut at the tube side. Use the bigger washer and nut at the suspension side. Tighten the nuts and the new bush is fitted.
You could also use a G-clamp to push the new bush in but it is useful to have a small piece of tube as a guide to keep it square.
Keith
That is what I did, plus a home made spring compressor, admittedly nowhere as nice as Marco’s (no ball joint, just larger holes for the nuts to accommodate the misalignment)
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Hello everyone. Greetings from Spain. My OD decided to stop engaging. Clearly an electric problem, as I didn’t hear the solenoid clicking.
I have tracked down the issue to the gearbox switches or the gearbox ground wiring, as there is no current coming from the yellow cable that goes from the gearbox to the OD switch in the steering column. I removed the yellow cable coming from the gearbox from the connector that joins it with the yellow cable going to the switch and substituted it with a cable to ground (ie: by passed the gearbox switches), and the OD engages when I activate the switch. That implies that the relay is good, the solenoid is good, the column switch is good and the wiring that goes to the relay from the switch (green / yellow), from the ignition switch (white), from the Control Box (Brown) and to the OD solenoid (yellow / purple) is also good. The yellow cable that links the gearbox switches which, in turn, are connected to earth, with the OD switch in the column, seems fine, so the issue seems to be in the gearbox switches or their ground connection. By the way, thanks to everyone in the TR register forums, as all the above was knowledge I obtained from it, myself being a complete ignorant on the matter before consulting the forum….
If the issue are the gearbox switches, that would require a gearbox cover removal and a prayer that the issue is just the outside connections rather than those inside the selector box. Before going that route, however, I had the hope that maybe the issue is the wire that connects the gearbox switches to ground (which I checked in other posts in the forum and learnt is via a wire, not with the gearbox case), and also hoped that such connection may be visible from below, not requiring to remove the gearbox cover.
Does anyone know and, if possible, have a picture of how and where the gearbox wiring connects to ground?.
Many thanks in advance
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1 hour ago, brenda said:
Evening Colin, I had to replace my rear wing a couple of years ago. I ended getting my new wing from Bastuck. The metal is slightly thinner than Uk wings but unless you are a expert you can not tell the difference. I think I must of been very lucky as the wing fitted with no modifications having to be done. Hopefully when you get a new wing it will fit as smoothly as mine did.
He mentions Bastuck in his post
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6 hours ago, ianc said:
Lubrication of gearbox & overdrive separates owners into 2 groups:
- those who use 40 grade, as recommended by Pete Cox
- those who use Hypoy or similar.
For some 58 years, I have used Hypoy - Castrol in earlier days, now Penrite Hypoid 80/90.
Two friends whose judgement I value greatly, Ian Gibson and Tony Sheach, also use 80/90 grade, so I shall continue to use Penrite Hypoid 80/90 as it works well and never causes problems for me.
BTW, the more viscous oil doesn't escape so easily!
Ian Cornish
You forgot a third group: those who dunno what the hell was in there, but it worked...
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1 hour ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
If it was incorrect oil causing the clutches to slip in the overdrive, would not all power be lost to the rear wheels, same as if the engine clutch was slipping .
Ralph
I don’t think so, but I may be wrong. From what I have read in the OD manual found in the internet, the role of the cone clutch is to block the casing of the sun gear, so that the planetary gears turn their carrier ring which then moves the transmission shaft. If the clutch disengages, then all the assembly turns and the gear shaft and the driving shaft move together (ie: no OD). You can find the manual here. Interesting, if a bit convoluted... https://www.nicolamarras.it/tr4/varie/triumph_tr4_laycock_overdrive.pdf
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I saw in a manual for the OD the procedure to align the lever, but I guess it is also a gear cover off work, is it?
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Just to be clear, it does not happen only in 2nd gear. Apologies if I didn’t explain it clearly. It happens in all gears, but I only normally use the OD in 4th gear. When I accelerate, it automatically disengages, even though the relay light is still on. If I accelerate less, it does engage. I can keep it engaged if I accelerate gently, typically in a flat o downhill. If I need to accelerate significantly to maintain speed in an uphill, or to pass a car, it disengages. I will first check the cables and, as Roger pointed out, the gear lever as far as I can without removing the cover. If no results, I will change the oil. If the problem remains, I will then remove the cover
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7 hours ago, ntc said:
If you have a earth to the light that is piggy backed to the realy that will be your problem
Please correct me if I am wrong, but if that would be the issue, wouldn’t the light be on all the time?
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Hi, Rob. Many thanks. My car actually has an overdrive engagement light fitted, that switches on when the relay is on. I will check the wiring, but I believe it’s similar to what you describe, as it only turns on if The OD relay is engaged, not when I turn on the switch with the engine in neutral or in 1st gear. The light does stay on when my overdrive “misbehaves”, which seems to point to the oil. I guess the correct process will then be to 1st try the oil (I drilled an access to the filling hole in the transmission tunnel, so this should be easy) and see if the issue is sorted.
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What Mick says gas reminded me of one of the ideas I had while browsing through the various threads: motorcycle oil. As you probably know, motorcycles have oil bathed clutches, using the same oil for the engine and for the gearbox, so motorcycle oils must have no anti friction additives. They also have synchronizers, so no large quantities of phosphor. The correct specification is JASO MA. My two concerns are that the torque that goes through a motorcycle gearbox is smaller, so I am unsure if it will withhold the shearing forces in the TR gearbox, and that it is difficult to find a 20w50 motorbike oil. It’s also true that the problems car oils not being compatible with motorbikes started with API SJ in the mid 90s, when they started to use friction reduction additives, so a good old 20w50 API SG or SH would also work. Maybe someone has tried this?
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Many thanks for the replies. Where is the isolator switch?. Is it accessible, or would I have to remove the gearbox cover (and all the stuff that goes with that: console bracket, carpets...)?. If it’s accessible I can try. If not, I will try with the oil first. What makes me have the oil on top of the suspects list is that this didn’t happen before the oil change, suggesting that there was not a problem with the switch...
Triumph TR4A overheating
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
That was exactly the point I was trying to make in my first post: what happened seems perfectly normal if the fan is switched off