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bazyli56i

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Posts posted by bazyli56i

  1. Hi John, I had a very useless handbrake on my TR4A until I made the following alterations and now the handbrake holds on the steepest of hills no problem.

    I decided to make the adjustments that were detailed in issue 314 of the TR Action magazine , page 35 "how to improve operation of the TR4A-6 handbrake", whilst doing this I was having difficulties getting the cable adjustment correct so came up with the following solution, I removed the end cable brackets and nuts on the end of the handbrake cables that fit to the operating arm on the rear wheels and welded the nut to the bracket to prevent it turning, after refitting, it was so easy getting the correct adjustment on the handbrake cables by simply removing the split pin and connecting pin and turning the complete nut/bracket till all the cable slack was taken up, the difference after putting it back together was like night and day. Not the clearest of photo's but gives you a look (the welded nut to bracket is the one on the right).

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  2. BlueTR3A-5EKT the exhaust note I would say is lovely, it peaks at 2000 rpm and has a great sound especially in tunnels and in areas with high buildings either side, it quietens down after 2000 rpm to a moderate tone which is not tiresome 

  3. Hi Guys, Many thanks for everyone's input to my problem, the TR4A now has 4 x double bolt lower inner fulcrum brackets with 3mm rear reinforcing plates fitted.

    Pete V W steerng rack gaiter and track rod end also fitted;)

    Marco all paint was removed from all facing plates of the parts before being rebuilt:)

    Happy motoring when it finally arrives back.

    John

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  4. Many thanks for all the input, I was not sure about drilling another hole to fit the TR6 2 hole bracket, will order 4 twin stud brackets tomorrow and get busy with the drill, unfortunately I will need to strip down the drivers side which has just been rebuilt to replace these brackets. Pete VW I have a new gaiter and track rod end waiting to be fitted (well spotted).

    Cheers guys

    John

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  5. Evening lads and lassies, got a bit of a problem, when dismantling the passenger side of my TR4A for a suspension rebuild one of the bolts would not come out on the lower inner fulcrum bracket, took it to brothers workshop today as he has acetylene bottles to apply heat, was rusted so bad I bent the fulcrum bracket, because it's an important part of the suspension I don't want to try and straighten it so thought I would just get a new one but the only one they supply now is the uprated TR6 one which has 2 bolt fixings instead of one but the holes are on the wrong plain (see photos), has anyone had this problem? solution?

    Cheers

    John

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  6. Hi, I had a 123 electronic distributor fitted last October, prior to having the distributor fitted I was plagued with the car pinking regardless of numerous valve clearance and timing checks, since the 123 distributor was fitted I have not heard the pinking noise, no problems to date so very happy with the change, hope this helps those thinking about the change.

    Cheers

    John

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  7. Hi Guys, Thanks for the replies/views, I have decided to go for the pheonix twin pipe system complete with down pipe (Mike from the red rose group, the picture you sent clinched it for me) , getting fitted on Tuesday.

    Cheers

    John

  8. Hi, I have a 1966 TR4A which has a standard exhaust system with the crossbox silencer at the rear, the exhaust is steel with the exception of the crossbox silencer which is stainless steel, the y section which connects to the front manifold is cracked and I am thinking about replacing the complete system for a pheonix stainless steel one retaining the original manifold, my dillema is do i go for the crossbox or change it to the twin pipe system as i quite like the look of the twin pipe outlets, although a bit concerned about how the twin pipes are supported. Is there brackets that support the silencers or do they have to be manufactured.

    Cheers

  9. Hi Guys,

    Got the car back on the road yesterday after several months on axle stands getting it ready for the coming season, just to clear up my initial question I posted about my speedometer problems.

    I sent the speedometer to John Osticks for a repair/service, I am happy to report that the speedometer is now functioning as it should .

    Thanks for all the input from the various club members who posted solutions to my problem.

    Cheers

    John

  10. thanks for the replies guys, roger cheers for the info to reduce the size of the photo, it's now on, I think I will leave it off for now and see if there is any difference when I get it rebuilt and back on the road.

    john

  11. Hi Guys, A happy new year to everyone, whilst working on my 1966 TR4A I came across this very heavy weight(see attached photo) which was clamped to the rear of the gearbox where the propshaft joins the gearbox, the small plate seen beside the weight in the photo was attached to the clamp but was not clamped to anything although there is a hole in stay that fits from the silent bloc mounting to the gearstick fixing. I cannot find anything about it in any of the manuals I have. I also asked about this weight whilst I was through at Chic Doig classic sportscars getting some parts and he had not come across this part. The car originally came from North Carolina in the USA. Does anyone know the reason it would be fitted?

    Cheers

    John

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  12. Thanks for reply guys, the speedo takes a while to register the correct speed and likewise when you slow down to go into a town speed limit ie. I am driving at 30mph via the rev counter reading but the speedo is still recording 50mph taking a while to record the correct speed. The needle moves smoothly Alan and does not jump about. So yes I will need to check out the drive cable etc. roger, never thought about this.

    cheers

    john

  13. Hi Guys,

    Since I bought my TR4A in June the speedometer has been functioning erraticaly and reading the incorrect speed, as I am going to be doing some work on my car over the winter months I thought this would be an ideal time to remove the speedometer and send it away for repair. Can anyone recommend a company who would be able to repair/calibrate my speedometer.

    Cheers

    John

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