joespiro
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Posts posted by joespiro
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Hi all
I am sad to say that I have decided to sell my Warwick. It is a 1961 car (no.16) and has been in the family since 1963, it was originally owned by Ian Morton who was the London Evening Standard motoring correspondent at the time.
The car has been extensively restored over the last 10 years, much of the space frame has been replaced, it has been mechanically overhauled and the body has been completely restored by option 1 to concours standard. The interior is serviceable but would benefit from being refurbished.
Over the next couple of weeks I will put a new MOT on the car so it will be ready to go.
If anyone is interested I can be contacted on 07598 254752 or joespiro @ hotmail.com
Cheers
Joe
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When you say the pipe kinked badly, was that using a proper pipe bender or just bending by hand? I used this to bend the fuel pipe on the warwick and had no problems. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/28586/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Pipe-Bending/Irwin-Hilmor-Multi-Mini-Tube-Bender?cm_re=SEARCHPROMO-_-PIPE%20BENDER-_-28586
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Thanks Alec
I have looked up my current battery - apparently it is for a Lada
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Hi all
I need to get a new Battery for the Warwick - I guess this is the same as a TR3a?
The car is running a dynamo so I would like to get a heavyweight battery and top it up with a conditioner when the car is in the garage so I can run an electric fan - will this be ok or do I really need to go to a Dynalite?
The current battery is a Varta D19 which is a 60AH 280A battery.
Does anyone have any recomendations?
Cheers
Joe
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Agreed, it's just the small matter of an MOT now....
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Problem Solved!
I started the car in reverse gear - just to get the car out the garage and it Freed itself! I then took it for a little drive - first time in over 2 years - and I'm still grinning like an idiot.....
Thanks all.
Joe
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It was a new clutch about 3 years ago, but it had been in the garage for some time so is hopefully ok.
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Hi all
Thanks for all the suggestions, I will give it a try over the weekend and report back.
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This means almost certainly that the clutch plate is stuck.
It could just be that the clutch shaft is moving but the fork is not moving,
due to failure of the clevis pin, but that is much less likely.
To free the clutch insitu, you need heat, heat, heat.
I'll send you a PM to explain.
AlanR
Thanks Alan
Is it worth letting the engine get really hot and see if the heat frees it?
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Hi
The hydrualics seem ok, the lever moves on the bellhousing as the pedal is operated.
Does this means the plates have stuck together or could it be I need to adjust the pedal box?
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Hi
It is a Warwick so has two electric SU pumps at the back. I fitted a filter this morning at the bulkhead so it now has the glass bowl type filter with a paper filter and an in line plastic filter. Hopefully that will catch any sh1te that finds its way from the tanks.
The problem of flooding is also sorted with some nice shiny needle valves from Burlen.
Just the clutch to sort now beofre thinking about an MOT.
Thanks for the advice.
Joe
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Hi all
I am re-commisioning the Warwick and now have a clutch problem, it has a standard 3a clutch with the same hydralics etc.
Basicly when you push the pedal, nothing happens - I can't engage a gear. I am guessing that it is either a stuck plate or a hydralic problem. does anyone have any advice on how to proceed and fault find?
I can't find my one man bleeding kit anywhere so i thought i might try putting it in reverse with the hand brake on and start it up. Is this a good or bad idea?
Thanks in advance.
Joe
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Thanks, I will make my way to halfrauds tomorrow - I guess they all filter out the same size of impuritys/debris?
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Hi all
I am having problems with a needle valve sticking in my rear carb, have spoken to burlen and they have recommended new needle valves - apparently they have a rubber pin that is more accepting of tiny bits of dirt. I am off to burlen first thing tomorrow to collect them.
However, this has led me to think I ought to put an inline filter in the fuel line. has anyone done this - what type was it and would you recommend it?
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That is very helpfull, especially the pictures.
I was planning to rig the cable up at the pedal end to the existing lever on the bulkhead that operates the rod arrangement, did you try this?
Many thanks
Joe
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Hi
Has anyone converted to a cable operated throttle when fitting HS6 carbs? If so how did you do it?
Cheers
Joe
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My Grandfathers Warwick has just failed its MOT on structual corrosion to the spaceframe.
He has owned tha car since 1963 and the garage that has maintained it all that time has just closed. We are keen to keep the car on the road and get it repaired properly (not just bodged up for an MOT. Does anyone know a garage that can do this type of repair work to a good standard preferable in the London area.
Warwick for sale
in Italia, Swallow Doretti, Peerless & Warwick
Posted
Yes, thats the one.