[dash pad]

Yes, had the same problem, purchased a Rimmer crash pad and sent it back as absolute rubbish.  Got one instead from the TR Shop which was far superior.  I managed to fit mine without having to remove the windscreen frame.  Basically, because I couldn't get the frame out (a common problem) .  Was able to slacken off the post brackets which allowed me to lift the frame just enough so that I slide the leading edge of the crash pad underneath then drop the frame back down, then retighten the post brackets.

[Fuel gauge not working]

Hi Terry, you can change the sender unit without a full tank out job. Disconnect filler tube and remove all tank retaining bolts apart from the final two on left hand side closest to pump. Slacken these off and you can then swing tank out far enough to get to the sender retaining screws. This also leaves enough room to remove sender and fit new. Best done when tank near empty and don't forget to disconnect battery first.

 

Greg

[Dashtop and Crash pads]

Hi Graham,

 

I faced the same problem when fully refurbishing the dash of my 73 car last year. In the end I went with the TR Shop dashtop as its the best around and used Rimmers lower crash pads and switch console. Yes the the graining between the dashtop and lowers is different but far enough apart that it looks fine.

 

You're only in Aylesbury and I'm just outside Leighton Buzzard, so if you want to take a look, you're welcome to pop over.

 

Greg

 

ps: Despite what everyone says, I managed to change the dashtop without having to fully remove the windscreen frame which is always a nightmare to achieve. I slackened the frame retaining brackets which allowed the frame to lift enough to slide out the old dashtop and slide in the new.

[Dash support frame-recovering options]

I found the TR shop padded cover the best. You have to take your time in sticking down with good quality contact adhesive, a bit at a time, let it dry and then glue the next bit - don't try to fit the cover all in one go, but the end result looked like original.

 

I did first try the Rimmer Bros version, and like an earlier post, no way would it stick down no matter what glue I tried, In the end I returned it for credit,

[Dash Top Pad]

Hi Barry,

 

I had the same problem when wanting to replace my dash top pad, that come what may I couldn't get the windscreen frame out of the two side brackets as the pins were seized solid in the tube brackets. But I did find that by slackening off the 3 bolts to each side bracket the windscreen frame was now now loose enough to lift slightly, sufficient to pull out the old dash top and slide the new under. Re-clamped the windscreen frame and bolted down the 3 windscreen clamps and job was all good.

 

Greg

[Windscreen capping]

I recently fitted a new capping sourced from Rimmers. No real issues although did find a few of the rivet holes were slightly out of alignment but soon solved with minor drilling. Point to note, if you're going to fit the blanking caps into the hardtop fixing points, fit these before installing the capping, as no way will you get them in afterwards.