Steven_nl
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Posts posted by Steven_nl
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Hi again guys. My 1974 tr6 suffers from a sticky clutch. Not all of the time, but quite often it seems the clutch does not react when I am in 1st gear and raise the clutch pedal. It seems to stick for a second and then reacts. Obviously it is hard to drive that way.
What do you think? The cylinders or the clutch itself preasure plate disk bearing?
The clutch is very heavy to operate.
Thanks for your help
Steven
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Well that was a breeze. Solenoid replaced. Works better then ever.
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Update
Hopefull the small spanner will arrive today, Looks fairly simple to take out and replace the solenoid. Will the gearbox oil pour out?
Fingers crossed this will solve the problem.
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I bought the panrt at a Triumph specialist. The guy who works there says it can be done.
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Hi John. I found a good part which is made by Mocar. They seems to be specialists. Thanks for your help
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Stephen,
"there was oil coming from between the hose and the small copper pipe that bolts onto the engine. The clamp was not doing a good job"
You don't say what model this was on, but all the oil pressure guages I've seen were connected to the oil gallery by a compression fitting, that either fitted the tube like a brake pipe, or had an 'olive' around the pipe. Yours sound like a a piece of pipe shoved onto a tube, like a water hose, with a jubilee clamp on it. Could work - was there a 'barb' on the tube, or a bead, to engage the clamp? These are needed for a good seal.
JOhn
Sorry I do not know the correct English names of the parts. The hose is made of a plastic like transparent material. Bolts look like they are made of copper. The small seal looked like plastic as well Teflon? i could turn the clamp by hand. Could twist the hose right of the copper part. We managed to repair it for now. I'll buy another one or have one made. I just hope I do not need to remove the dashboard again. Hopefully we can attach the hosr to the gauge by removing the ashtray.
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There is a post called J type solenoid, scroll down a bit.
Waldi
Dank je!
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yep We did.
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Checked all the wiring and switches. They all work. I guess the Solenoi is broken. Is that hard to replace? As far as I can tell you can turn the Solenoi itself and take it right out. But maybe there is more to it?
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A few months ago the hose form the engine to the oil preasure gauge broke. Lots of oil in front of the driver seat.
I ordered a new part from Bastuck in Germany (do not know if this is relevant). We had closed the hole on the engine with an improvised cap. A few weeks ago we did a dash restoration and replaced the broken hose.
Last week we went on a short trip to Germany. On the way I noticed the oil preasure was lower then usual. I checked and it turned out I had lost 2 liters of oil. On close inspection I noticed there was oil coming from between the hose and the small copper pipe that bolts onto the engine. The clamp was not doing a good job. Clearly this is a s*** quality part and it could have cost me my enigine. So watch out when you order it.
I was lucky to notice it on time.
Where do you get your parts from? I realise most of it comes from China and is complete crap. Is there a difference in suppliers? (Moss, Bastuck, Anglo Parts, Rimmer Bros) Or does it come form the same factory?
Greets
Steven
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thanks Percy. everything else seems to work fine
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is there a fuse with the J type? where is it?
I'll check the connector firsdt. we did some work under the dash and put in new matts on the driver side.
If that doesn't do the trichk we'll check under the car for the solenoid and the connectors.
Thanks guys!
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Hi Guys
I have a 1974 TR6 with overdrive on 3rd and 4th. (j type I gues)
All of a sudden my overdrive stopped working. when I switch on the ignition and put the the car in 3rd gear and switch on the OD I do no hear anything happening.
Any suggestions?
Thanks a lot!!
Steven
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Hi Peter.
Thanks for your help!
Yeah It's a unit with the wire and it does have the buzzer. Ordered it from Bastuck in Germany/France (half the price of Moss)
We were wondering if the unit can be unscrewed or if you need to put the key in the lock or something like that.
Cheers
Steven
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Hi Guys
I wonder if you can help me out. I need to replace the ingnition switch of my TR6 (1974 USA). I often need to turn the key twice to get any reaction form the starter motor and the dashboard light are very faint the first time as well.
Is there a special procedure we need to follow?
Thanks for your help!!
Steven, The Netherlands
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well that is all beyond me ;-)
We did install the Petronix. set the timing to 15 and put in a red rotor (Moss)
The car runs well (allthough I must confess I can't compare it to other TR6's).
After the Petronix the car starts quicker and reacts more alert to the throttle.
After setting the timing to 15 it runs nicely (but it allready drove very well here in Holland).OIbviously it runs better when revs are higher then 3000. We disconnected the retard/advance?
Unfortunatly now I have to wait for next summer to realy test it.
Meanwhile. we will put in the heat screens between the carbs and the engine. We'll clean the SU's as well and look at the setup.
Will post in a new topic about the carbs and cam combination and best setup
Thanks guys
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Hi Poolboy. Yes it was setup like that. My garage guy changed it somewhere along the line.
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Hi Peter and Stuart
Peter I was reading one of your earlier posts (again)
I think I don't have the emission canister you are refering to. (see new photo) There is one rubber hose which seems to go form the rocker cover to nowhere at all. (on the left of the photo)
I do remember it was connected with a T piece to the rubber hose which runs between the two SU's.
I'm not sure I can afford to send my disy to "The Doctor" Do you think it would be wise to replace the retard with an advance? I guess that would need a special rebuild kit (Supplied by Martin?)? or some special parts? Or can I leave it as it is? with the retard disconnected?
Thnak god I don't have a PI. It's hard enough with SU's LOL
ps Once again I have little (or no) knowledge. I 'm just trying to get as much information as possible to solve this problem.
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Yes but Kevo is right. According to the manual 1 should be elsewhere on the disy. We got it right on the car though. So is it better to disconnect the retard? It s connected to one of the SU's now if i'm not mistaking. We need to replace it with anadvance piece? I know disy doctor so....
I'll point my friend to the part on disconnecting emission thngs.
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I'm into supercharging - DIY.
The Moss kit makes it simpler, ideal with a low compression head.
Peter
LOL beyond budget unfortunatly.. But what do you make of the fact that the nr 1 cylinder is in the wrong position on the disy? And the reatard is allways pointed to the front, right?
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...or 'charge it!
Uhhh????
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Hi Kevo and other forum members.
We looked at the flywheel (is that the correct name?) When the marker on the engine was on the line on the flywheel (number 1 position) the rotor was in this position.
so:
1. retard is in the rear of the disy that is wrong when I look at photo's it should be pointing forward. or is a retard piece put in the spot of an advance? or is this impossible?
2. lead to first cylinder is on the wrong side of the disy?
what does this mean?
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I hope my friend Rene is reading this. Thanks a lot again guys!!
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Well I installed the Petronix. Works fine. The car seems to react better to the throttle. Starts quicker as well. Engine sounds a bit rough but we only did a quick setup of the ignition (using a lamp)
It is a 12V setup. The compression was 8 bar on all cylinders. I tried to get info on the engine rebuild but unfortunatly I wasn't able to find any info on the compression.
There's a vac Advance not a reatard. It's now reconnected.
I think this is the Kent camshaft that's in the car
http://www.kentcams.com/product-details/372/Camshaft/Camshaft/TH5-6-Fast-Road/
I think it's wonderfull you are all taking the time to help me and give expert advice.
I want to stress that my TR6 runs fine most of the time, but seems to act up after a while when we are abroad.
Sticky clutch
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Thanks guys! I am driving to France on friday for a 2 week holliday with my wife and our tr6. Will check the thing you suggested when I get back.
Fyi nothing was done to the gearbox recently.
By the way I am not a mechanic. I have a friend (restored his 67 Mustang) who is so I have to rely on him.