[TR3A restoration options]

Thanks Willie. I've already got the TR4 and like it. Unfortunately I enjoy driving a TR3A as well! If I had to choose, given garaging arrangements, time etc I would get rid of the TR3A but it would be a sad day. My Dad ran a TR2 in the late 50's so I have always been a bit of a sidescreen TR nut after seeing his photos. I think the answer is run the TR3 on the cheap for a while and then look to restore it properly in the longer term. I'm 46 and not employed by the state so a few years to retirement yet!

 

Bob

[TR3A restoration options]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll get the old girl going again next year and gradually refurb the running gear. I suppose that sills wings and boot can be done and then get some use out of her. I can then take a long term view as to where to go next. I do need to get the tr4 up to scratch (body and chassis not a problem there) but hasn't had much use over the last 10 years and needs some miles on it to get it dead reliable.

 

Embarrassment of riches really.

 

Bob

[TR3A restoration options]

Thanks for the replies so far. Given what has been said, I think I may take the running restoration and drive it option. I confess I don't have much of a clue as to the current price for decent cars that are running and sound. All you seem to see these days is top dollar fully restored and basket cases. I think ntc has a point. I'm all for sensible mods to the tr4 (it's already a lhd to rhd conversion - so not as god intended) but I do agree there is fun to be had driving a car as it was made. I used to drive a series one landie and enjoyed suggesting where the wheels ought to go rather than telling it! The tr3a was much the same but a bit faster - I do remember keeping of with a friends modern on the A66 where the speedo indicated a bit over 90! Can't wait to do that again- speed cameras permitting.

 

Just got to convince the wife that it's a dead cert long term investment.

 

Regards

 

Bob

[TR3A restoration options]

Hello All

 

I've posted before on the forums but in connection with a TR4. However, I've just bought a TR3A (in fact I used to own this car 10 years ago and sold it to my brother in law who has just sold it back to me).

 

Its a genuine UK car and standard other than it comes with a TR4 box and A type overdrive (it popped out of second on the overrun when I had it). Looking it over it is still very sound. The only issues other than a bit of surface rust are that the lower edges of the front wings (which are off the car) need repairing and the passenger side outer sill needs replacing (inner and floor seem ok). The driver's side sill has been done but is in primer. The boot lid edges need a repair. Its not been on the road for sometime but was going last summer around the farmyard.

Otherwise chassis, floors, rear wings doors etc are pretty good. However, if you wanted it to look top notch you would need to respray it. The original build records (supplied via the Register before even I owned it in the mid 90s) show it as BRG but it is now white. Would you return it to its original colour?

 

Because its in the family, he's seen something else shiny to spend his money on now, and I let it go for too little money when I sold it to him, I've got it at what I think is a bargain price £8500.

 

I know this is a "how long is a piece of string question" but I would welcome your views on:

 

(1) Full body resto and current cost

(2) Running restoration bit by bit

 

Part of me is thinking of what the best financial option is were I to sell it in future - making the decision to buy a TR4 was based on how much more useable they are compared to a TR3, and if I'm honest, I may be forced to choose between the two of them - both in terms of time and cost.

 

Pretty happy to get out the spanners but absolutely no experience with bodywork. How viable an option is it to do it yourself?

 

look forward to any comments.

 

Regards

 

Bob

 

 

[Rattle rattle.....]

Thanks guys. Given that I've just taken it apart, one would have thought I'd have spotted the drive issue. In my defence, I quickly looked at the workshop manual this morning and realised the stupidity of my question. Too late..."the moving hand once having writ moves on. Nor all thy piety nor wit can lure it back to cancel half a line".....as we say in Yorkshire

 

Regards

 

Bob

[Rattle rattle.....]

Hi Roger

 

Accuspark seems a good idea. Not 100% clear from website but is there a tacho drive on these? Also roughly what does the good Doctor charge (coy on website)?

 

Regards

 

Bob

[Rattle rattle.....]

Well, as noted on another thread, I have a rattle at idle that disappears when the revs rise slightly. I changed the distributor drive shaft and the oil pump insides (spade and oil pump spindle were quite worn). Thats done wonders for oil pressure and at the same time I've cured various oil leaks but still got the rattle.

 

Timing chain cover and tensioner changed when I did a thin belt conversion a few weeks ago and it does seem to emirate from the distributor side and, if my screwdriver doesn't lie, from the distributed itself.

 

Father in law, ( who worked in these cars when new before taking up a job with Shell at their development site at Thornton) reckons it could simply be weights or something else rattling in the distributor. Anyone think that's likely or other suggestions?

 

Bob

[Tr4 distributor drive shaft]

Narrow belt conversion done so timing chain tensioner and cover renewed. Process of elimination - hopefully it's the shaft/ oil pump but the other possibilities are endless... ( and possibly expensive)

[Tr4 distributor drive shaft]

thanks Roger. That makes sense. I did wonder if once the drive has taken up (so to speak) then the pressure on the keyway may be broadly constant and not rattle. I think that is what you are saying. The spade on the end of the shaft and the slot in the top of the oil pump were pretty worn so I think I may have solved the rattle. If not, its been a great therapeutic and learning experience taking all the bits apart!

 

Just going out to the garage love, I may be some time.......

 

Thanks

 

Bob

[Tr4 distributor drive shaft]

Thanks for that Dave. I was beginning to worry no one fancied answering! Usually on this forum you get 5 replies if you turn your back for a moment! The key in the shaft seems fine, if anything I think its the keyway. Unfortunately it would appear you can only get the gear second hand so if there is a bit of wear, I imagine the s/h ones will be a bit worn too. Spoke to Revington's this morning and their mechanic did say a bit of play is not unusual. He suggested that I could put some Loctite on the key and allowing it to dry but not to lock it in the gear.

 

Bob

[Tr4 distributor drive shaft]

Got a rattle at idle so decided to check the distributor/ oil pump drive shaft. On disassembling clearly spade and slot in oil pump shaft well worn. Hopefully this is the rattle. New oil pump internals ordered and new distributor shaft and woodruff key purchased. On fitting the new shaft and woodruff key into the gear, there is a small amount of play as if the woodruff key is moving slightly in its channel. Is this normal or should the shaft and key be pretty tight?

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

Bob

[Tr4 overheating]

Thanks Menno. I think the pulley is fine. I was thinking that another flush may be necessary. I've already done the up on ramps running with cap off thing a few times and there has been no drop in level or indication of an airlock. I know a radiator is generally cooler at the bottom but I expected it to be reasonably hot not just tepid. Given that these problems occurred after a flush (using flushing solution) I did wonder whether I'd displaced some crud and it was blocking something. Should have left well alone.....!

[Tr4 overheating]

Well I think if the ambient temperature was higher I think it would boil. Surely if it's running far hotter than normal something is wrong?

[Tr4 overheating]

Hello again all. Just fitted alternator and thin belt conversion. As the rad was removed I flushed the system and refilled. The car now runs hot - halfway between normal and hot but it doesn't boil. Previously it ran just below midway. Checked and changed temp sensor and voltage regulator. Put on ramps to try and find airlock- doesn't seem to be one. Tonight restricted bypass hose- no difference. Have also swapped thermostat - new one reads exactly the same as old one.

 

Anyway, after running up to heat tonight I felt the radiator and the top few inches were too hot to touch but the bottom three quarters was barely warm. Does this indicate the radiator is knackered (or not quite up to scratch at least).

 

I know overheating as been done to death but couldn't find anything re assessing condition of a radiator so any help gratefully received.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Bob

[Alternator conversion TR4]

I have read the articles sent to me by Ian Cornish and the above replies and from these I conclude (or contend at least)

 

(1) Adding an extra wire from the alternator output to the solenoid (ie in addition to the wire from the new alternator output via the ammeter to the battery and other loads) will bypass the ammeter to some extent but ensure the 40 amps will make it to the battery. Presumably it will also help to shunt the 40 amp output current around the 30amp reading ammeter - I suppose that will depend on the relative resistence of the wire to the solenoid and the wire through the ammeter?

 

(2) As currently wired I have a cable running from the solenoid to a cut out switch and from this I have wired the headlamps and spots (using relays) and also revington's supplementary wiring loom. It would seem that the effect of this will be to bypass these loads from the ammeter. In effect, the ammeter will show a draw for eveything but the lamps etc.

 

Does that make sense?

 

Bob

[Alternator conversion TR4]

I have bought the revington lightweight alternator conversion for my tr4 and I think the wiring etc all makes sense per their instructions. However, I have a couple of questions re the wiring generally. I have read elsewhere that is it a good idea to run an extra heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the battery (or starter solenoid if the run is shorter which it will be) to ensure that the existing wiring doesn't impeded the charging capacity of the new alternator. The alternator has three terminals - one for the lamp, one to the ignition (IG terminal) and then the output terminal post. If I ran the extra wire presumably this would be an extra wire on the output post. otherwise revington wire this post to the battery via the ammeter. is the extra wire a good idea.

 

I have fitted the extra loom kit from revington already. This is wired from the starter solenoid, via a cut out switch. Presumably this helps the wiring as any lamps, fan etc goes through their new loom wire to the fuse box and draws current independently of the existing wiring that goes via the ammeter to the battery. is my understanding correct and what effect does all of the above have the the ammeter and it's reading?

 

Regards

 

Bob

 

Ps I have fitted relays recently per Roger's suggestion ( see post on tr4/4a forum) and these are wired from the starter solenoid via the ignition cut off switch)

[Tr4 Headlamp Relays]

Thanks chaps. I fitted relays close to the lamps on my spit (ie as per John and Steve) and it made a big improvement to the lights - presumably there was a fair bit of voltage drop and running new cable helped. However, tbh the TR lights are pretty good in my opinion ( not halogen good but as good as my relayed spit lamps) so I am not sure whether running new cable as far forward as poss will make much difference. I seem to have all the alternatives - at the lights, at the dip switch and about halfway (Roger). Looking at the car this evening, I think it's either Roger's suggestion or Peter's (near dipswitch) mainly on ease and weather proof ness but if anyone else wants to weigh in with cogent reasons for the upfront position, please do - not bought the cable yet!

 

Cheers

 

Bob

[Tr4 Headlamp Relays]

Thinking of fitting headlamp relays. Not sure whether to run a new supply all the way to the lamps and fit relays near the lamps or site the relays near the dip switch and thus use most of the existing wire to the lights with a new supply only going to the relay somewhere in the footwell/bulkhead.

 

The existing lights seem fairly bright so doesn't seem to be much of a voltage drop and main aim is to help out the switch, also the bulkhead relay is less "invasive". However, part of me thinks it is better to use more new cable with a higher current capacity. Also, if the relays are up front, are there issues with keeping them weather proof? Where do people site them?

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

Bob

[1964 tr4 list price]

You don't need to be a dealer to use the scheme just a business that sells a vehicle that has already been used on the public road and that is registered for Vat. Also you can't scheme vehicles where you have reclaimed VAT in the first place ie if you bought a van and claimed the vat on purchase.

 

You are right about the tangible moveable assets bit.

[1964 tr4 list price]

Well , 27 years - assuming no one else wins it in that time!! But I take your point.

[tr4 1962 original dashboard]

There was one on ebay the other day. I paid £350 for a good one from the TR shop recently (much better than the ebay one currently listed). Don't forget to check if you get the central instrument panel and a glove box lid as well.

 

There was a really nice one listed on ebay starting at £170 I think but the listing ended early- suggests they are getting harder to find!

 

Regards

 

Bob

[1964 tr4 list price]

Thanks! Come to terms with this now. Still, it will take a while for you to catch up in overall titles!

[1964 tr4 list price]

Well, if we a starting a cricket team bagsy I be Geoff boycott. Who would you all pick?

 

In reference to Alec's comment re Statham and Trueman, if we show the same mutual regard and respect as those two, we should get on famously- even though he's a grumpy Lancastrian git (sorry - force of habit).

 

As to the Durham lad, I did spend three glorious years in the land of the prince bishops so can't be too harsh but it must be galling to be slap bang next to the most beautiful county in the uk ( and just to be clear, I don't mean Northumberland , Cumberland or Westmorland!!)

 

Bob

[1964 tr4 list price]

Cricket's a bit of a sore point at the moment. Who are these Durham upstarts? Makes me long for the time our respective counties simply shared the championship between us .........

[1964 tr4 list price]

Lancastrian eh? Well, I think we can rub along despite this distressing news.

 

Turning to the matter in hand, I believe the £15,000 and 15 year old rule was introduced to weed out the Ferrari owning millionaires who previously "abused" the system. I don't think they see classic cars as a cash cow. The HMRC guides specifically mention classic cars and the rules. Its not using a loophole - official policy if the car is worth less then £15k. Perhaps the rules are a nod to an industry that is worth a lot of money to the UK economy. Anyway, I imagine he gets it all back by soaking millionaires like Neil Revington and Darryl Uprichard who have made their fortunes by pushing expensive aluminium upgrades on helpless TR addicts like me......!! It's a national scandal!