Bob Horner
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Posts posted by Bob Horner
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Just a quick post to say what a good experience dealing with TR Enterprises has been. I bought a lamp bar from them which didn't quite fit out of the box (primarily because my bumper support brackets were a little out of line). What impressed me was the genuine concern about it not fitting initially from everyone I spoke to and a proper investigation as to whether what I had was correctly made to the right dimensions. Not the usual - "well its your car mate, deal with it" sort of attitude that we often seem to get from suppliers. Also, following on from my brake upgrade thread elsewhere, I do like it when a supplier says, "you want the bog std stuff it works well and its surprisingly cheap" - so Ive bought their bog std discs. TR Enterprises also sell alfin type drums but said stick with the originals if you want to give it some hammer. Therefore they cheerfully missed out on a potential sale. Their comment was for road cars, alfins were ok but, if seriously pressing on, they would prefer actually having rear brakes to a saving in unsprung weight! I think there are possibly alfin drums that are up to it but the prices are sky high. Shame, I like shiny things.
No connection, just felt motivated to express the warm feeling of not being taken for granted and/or fleeced.
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Seems dual circuit good upgrade. Who does best kit? Seem to be issues with pedal pressures required if swap to twin cylinders. Any more comments re this? Alfin type drums - what machining is required, where can I get second hand drums, cost and how much would it cost to machine? Alternatively £800 is too much (!) any other recommendations/criticisms for new items?
Thanks for responses so far.
regards
bob
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Thanks for the comments so far.
One issue I had on a wet motorway was the brakes taking a bit of time to react and initially being unbalanced. Would slotted/ drilled disks help in these circumstances?
I am slightly dubious as to the advantages of 4 pots and vented disks on the road- especially since I can lock up the wheels with current set up if shove too hard. However, the likes of roger Williams seem to advocate big changes and say drilled/ slotted discs are a no brainer......
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Hi all
Just completed the RBRR - car ran faultlessly (good to meet you Roger - shame about your limp hat).
Thinking of improving the brakes over the winter (not vented 4 pots etc just basic improvements to current set up) so, with that in mind, I would be grateful on current thinking on the following:
(1) Slotted and drilled discs - any discernible improvement from these? If not best standard discs - Brembo
(2) Braided brake hoses
(3) Pad choices and rear shoe choices
(4) shiny alfin type rear drums (£255 plus Vat a set from Cambridge Motor sports - seem cheaper than others)
(5) overhauling exisiting callipers etc
I know I could chat to the specialists but they are always keen to sell you their latest bit of kit!
Thanks in advance
Bob
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Vat doesn't tax profit. Its simply a tax levied by the govt on the consumer based on the price of the goods. Traders who are registered for vat simply collect it on behalf of the government. Traders don't suffer vat at all. The vat return allows traders to claim back any vat paid by knocking it off the vat they have collected from consumers that they have to pay over. Its a bit more complicated than that but thats the basic idea. Finally, if a trader has bought second hand goods and not been charged vat on them (eg from a private seller) the trader only has to charge Vat on the profit not the whole price. This is common with second hand cars.
Regards
Bob
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Thanks for the responses. Fixed for now but it's a bit of a lash up. Whoever has drilled the shaft in the past was a bit clumsy and wasn't too good at finding its middle. May look for a new accelerator shaft and drill it properly and use a bolt as suggested in other threads.
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In the middle of fitting SU HS6 carbs to previously stromberg'd tr4. Testing linkages (which were a bit stiff at first) managed to sheer (i thought) the pin which connects the accelerator pedal to the lever in the engine bay that actuates the carb linkages. After putting this back together and locating the holes in the shaft with those in the lever, the lever seems to be in the wrong position - far too vertical when pedal fully up and also it seems that the lever is not fully within the bush.
On closer inspection it appears that previously the lever was secured to the shaft by a spot of weld in a more appropriate angle - which may explain why I couldn't find a pin when it all came apart. The car was converted to RHD.
The lever itself has seen better days. One of the the holes is elongated - perhaps by someone trying to drill out a pin in the past. However, I gather that they are now unobtainable.
Anyone got any ideas, observations on this one? What is the angle of the lever when pedal fully up?
Regards
Bob
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I agree Alec but the volumes are so low and the alternatives aren't that wide, that I think they don't really care.
Also, there are plenty of people who order the parts and have no idea whether they were a pig to fit or not. The garage that fits them gets the blame for high labour charges and even then probably doesn't pass on the full cost of fettling them for fear of upsetting a regular customer.
My experience of the suppliers is that they all can be a bit aloof and patronising to their customers when something isn't quite up to scratch - hence my initial comments about not being able to use the steering wheel etc.
However, thanks for all the input so far. It seems that it's no worse than any others!!
regards
Bob
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Anyone got any experience of this manifold/system? A little bit pricy perhaps. The website talks of possibly needed to grind chassis/tight fit etc etc. Given that a lot of stuff doesn't fit well even when there are no warnings, could this be a nightmare? I do get a bit fed up of stuff not quite matching up to its billing and supplier, when questioned saying "oh, i thought you would have realised your tr4 would need to have its body removed/ completely redesigned/ not be able to use the steering wheel/ converted to left had drive etc etc".
Regards
Bob
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Quick update - seems that all Rimmers stock of these radiators are the incorrect size so all going back to be replaced by Serck! If you, like me, bought it when they were on offer and haven't yet fitted it, check its not from the duff batch before you fit it.
Regards
Bob
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Quick question. Converting tr4 from strombergs to HS6 carbs (sourced from Andrew Turner). Awaiting all the bits from Moss re linkages etc. Do I need a new choke cable or can the existing one be re-used?
Thanks in anticipation.
Bob
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Just checked new radiator against the revotec tr4 fan mounting brackets- the brackets line up with the car exactly so it's definitely not the car it's the new radiator. Good evidence when I get the usual line about my car not being std etc etc!!
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Well, attempted to fit a revotec fan and aluminium rad today. First issue, the short bolt provided to replace the long one through the fan extension had a thread that only bore a passing resemblance to the one it replaced. Cue trip to local engineering supplier and 50p later we were in business. After sorting the wiring, the thermo switch and leaving bits of skin around the engine bay, finally came to fit the radiator and the bolt holes were about 1/2 inch or so out of kilter. So, no evening drive in the warm weather or sunday ripping up country lanes?
Is aluminium rad size issues a common problem? Do I drill out the holes a bit or send it back?
On a lighter note, changed the heater valve for the taxi type. Thanks to this forum and non TR suppliers whose products seem to match their descriptions and are all reasonably priced, that at least went without incident.
Anyway, moral is compare replacement to original prior to taking everything apart!
Bob
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Well having read various suppliers websites, it all gets more confusing. From what I can tell std rear springs appear to be 128lb/in. Revington uprated springs say they are only "slightly" uprated and quote either 160 (using rear anti roll bar) or 185 with no rear roll bar. Thus I'm assuming that's 25% or 45% uprated. Is the rear anti roll bar there to counteract the softer spring rate?
Racetorations say their springs are uprated by 20% (presumably 154lb/in) but no rear roll bar. However seems that racetorations springs lower the ride height by 1". Revington states ride height of between 145mm and 155mm- not sure if that's lowered or not.
Further to Stuart's point, problem is, if I speak to either Darryl or Neil, they'll both convince me that theirs is the best solution! Unless you have direct experience of the ride quality and handling it's hard to decide.
The idea is that if anything is going to be changed it makes sense to do it when rebuilding but beginning to think its best to leave well alone.......
However thanks for all input so far.
Bob
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Thanks Valvebounce that's now one vote each. Damping is an issue at the moment after being driven hard for a few miles. Aren't the twin valves hard to get hold of and expensive? When talking scrutineers is the race or rally? Aren't the latter more fussy re non period mods or is that just at the top level?
Any other recommendations for suspension suppliers- revington or others?
Bob
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Thanks Roger. The revington kit keeps the lever arms, it's more the rear roll bar that could cause problems I think. Not sure how bothered people are unless you are in with a chance of winning something! (or so I have been told by someone was has competed a bit) but looking for direct TR advice.
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Hello all
Looking into rebuilding suspension as next job and considering whether it's worth upgrading the suspension at same time. Looking at Revington integrated kits. Does anyone have any direct experience of these? Hoping to do a bit of historic rallying eventually (ie events like Le Jog). Don't want rock hard ride and thus initially considering the kit with slightly updated rear springs and rear roll bar but not sure if this will be a problem for historic rally regs.
Also, may strengthen chassis as well for future plans (looking at revington half rally kit). No welding experience so may need to farm that out. Thoughts on how best to combine chassis strengthening and suspension rebuild (ie order of work) would also be welcome.
Spoken to Mr Revington and he was v helpful but, not surprisingly, very keen on his own kits(!) looking for some third party endorsement.
Thanks in anticipation
Bob
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More bobs on this thread than you can shake a stick at
Bob
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Yes, it's a crying shame. It's middle men these days taking commission who make all the money- percentages are insidious - whether that's estate agents, financial advisors, pension companies, fund managers or whatever. They bleed things dry and percentages rarely reflect time and effort.
My kids will have to inherit a classic in order afford one - just like houses. High priced fully restored cars don't do it for me. Completely redoing the interior is the ultimate sin in my view- regardless how impressive the results. So many of these high priced cars are pimped up beyond belief and that's what saddens me most. The twerps that buy them at such inflated prices must want them to look shiny new. How many honest, well worn interiors have been sacrificed in this regard?
I know many interiors are past saving and many of us buy a car that has been retrimmed but it's still a shame. Mind, I still wouldn't pay the price for this car even if it is as original as stated!
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In theory it should just come off but I had to use a puller to help it on its way.
Bob
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Take your point to a degree but I do think the dealers step in when values increase. Not sure if that's chicken or egg. My theory is that when cars rise in value, dealers inflate the price massively. Dealers then speculate by buying in private cars at high prices. Private sellers only sell to dealers who offer high prices and off you go.....until **** hits fan - only, just like the rest of the economy, **** seems to take longer these days to hit said fan. The question is, is it on its way? The fact that Naked imperial rulers are not spotted very quickly these days doesn't help.
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It seems to me that there are very few cars for sale privately these days (that goes for most classics now) and thus the dealers have very little competition. How many sell at these prices is another question. I bought a very good sound car in July last year for about £11k and still see dealers cars for sale now that were for sale then at ridiculous prices ( in my view). I agree with Alec that the prices are just silly for what they are. Still, low interest rates, relatively affluent retired individuals who are reliving their youth- a perfect storm for inflated values of cars of the 60s!
I know it's just me but I also fail to see why someone would pay the silly sums for e types and astons.
Bob
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Petty and small minded doesn't begin to describe this one. Having read virtually all Piggott's TR books, I can't believe someone with such an enthusiasm for the mark refuses to help someone else who loves these cars. If Club policy is the reason, the Club is getting a bit too big for its elderly boots.
Ammeter reading
in General TR Technical
Posted
Ok one for the electrical gurus.........
To set the scene (apologies for length of this).....
I have a tr4 converted to negative earth with a lightweight Revington 40amp alternator fitted. I have a battery cut off switch wired into the ignition circuit. I also have the revington auxiliary wiring loom which gets its power from the battery side of the cut off switch and is switched via the ignition and a relay) Amongst other bits and bobs (interior lights, windscreen washers, radio,map light all low amp stuff) , that loom powers an electric revotec fan which is wired via a relay (there is also an override switch for this wired using a switching relay). I have also fitted relays for the dip and main beams and there are spot lamps and fog lamps. These are wired via relays to come on when the relay is powered by the dip (fog) or main beam (spot) with override switches on the dash which effectively make an earth to latch the relay when in the on position. The power for the lights etc comes from wires connected to the starter solenoid via a further auxiliary fuse box.
The issue is that the ammeter shows a positive charge when the lights are on and more positive charge when the fog or spots are on (say 15 to 20 amps). Is thus a result of the source of the lights' power (ie the starter solenoid) or something else? Checked alternator with multimeter- runs about 12.8 volts tick over and gets up to 14 and a bit when revved so doesnt seem to be over charging. The needle on the ammeter rises with engine revs- it seems to be measuring load rather than battery charging. Alternator is three terminal type- big post for current and one to ignition and one to warning light. Light behaving normally -ie on when ignition turned on but off when running. Charged up battery fully to check wasn't in need of amps and still did same thing.
No problem starting
Any thoughts?
Bob