Bob Horner
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Posts posted by Bob Horner
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Thanks Mike. The adjusters on mine face forwards but looks tricky to get the allen key at them given the postion of the spring coils. However at least I know its simply a 4mm allen key so I'll give it a go and if not, take off the damper.
Regards
Bob
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My TR4 (a late one) has the same arrangement as the TR4a - ie vented via the carbs and burnt. Contemplated the spew it on to the road arrangement of earlier TRs but went for catch tank instead (vented at the rocker and out of the old hole in the block) but it didnt help! But as i said, the truth was that the engine, although apparently healthy (good oil pressure etc), was blowing through the rings. You dont realise just how well a wet liner engine can go if rebuilt and balanced! Most of us only ever drive one TR and cant really tell how fast they can go or how well they can handle. I hope your engine is in better nick but if its really spurting out of the dipstick, unless there is a very obvious blockage, it may be time to enjoy a rebuilt engine!!
Bob
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I had this - hoped it was blocked breatther, wrong felt washer on dipstick etc etc but in reality it was a tired engine with shot rings that simply fell off when the pistons came out! The crank case pressure resulting forcing oil out of the dipstick hole at anything other than tickover. The amount of oil that got pushed out was quite remarkable and looked like a serious oil leak with it dripping off the chassis after a high speed run.
Bob
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Hi all
Upgraded to twin valve lever arms on my tr4. To my mind the front seems a little under damped now compared to the rear. I have adjustable AVO front shocks but not sure how to adjust them. Internet talks about a "4mm allen key tool" but cant really see how to get at the adjuster without dismantling part of the front suspension. Is there a special tool? Is more dampng at the front a good idea? Handling is pretty good in my view, far more stable in the turns and far better after hard driving for a few miles. Its just the ride seems to pitch backwards and forwards a bit more since I fitted the twin valves. Should I run with the new dampers a bit longer before doing anything at all?
Bob
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Had exactly the same problem and chassis to engine earth was the culprit. Simply tightening it means spins it now over very well. Didnt need further earth but that would certainly help.
Bob
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Thanks chaps for the responses. It is fitted with poly bushes so inner fulcrum lubrication is an interesting suggestion (top r/h wishbone stiff when changing ball joint). What to lubricate with?
Revington kit is the late TR4 polybush integrated kit with 160lb springs. Haven't fitted the roll bars or adjustable top fulcrums.
Trunnion was probably next thought for me.
Regards
Bob
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I initially thought something to do with the spring as well (almost like it was catching in the pan and then releasing)
I havent removed the spring, only the damper but cant see any problems. Drives normally, apart from the noise and if it was the spring i'd assume it wouldn't take a few miles to start making the noise.
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Ok, a difficult one this but looking for ideas......
Its a late tr4 with a revington suspension upgrade done about 12,000 miles ago. It has developed a banging from the front nearside suspension. It doesn't make the noise straightaway but after about 3 or 4 miles. Then it is a metallic sounding bang (or crack even) Once it starts doing it, you can sit on the wing and re create the noise by bouncing it up and down. Checked out damper (removed and still did it) , replaced top ball joint (could feel vibration in joint as it bounced up and down). Spring looks fine. When changing top ball joint noticed that one of the top wishbones was a bit stiff. Rebushed etc when kit fitted (not by me). I suppose trunnion next? Or top fulcrum? Anyway, any thoughts and ideas gratefully received. Oh and wheel bearings checked etc and fine.
Bob
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Hope its something cheap Roger!
I had a lightweight Revington one fitted about 10,000 miles ago (or rather I fitted it together with recommended heat shield etc). That has just gone pop. Its a 45amp Nippon Denso which are supposed to be good. However, on sending it for repair they told me one of the main windings was shot so uneconomic to repair. Worked fine until the point when it stopped doing so and a new one is in now for £135 and working fine. I do wonder whether when someone says such and such a part is the bees knees whether they are really tested in all conditions for significant mileages - most of us only do a few miles a year of relatively sedate motoring. I imagine our cars bump about a bit more than your average modern hatchback and parts that work on them may give up the ghost sooner in our cars.
I gather its often things like alternators that strand you on the RBRR - I think I'll carry a spare next year just in case..
Bob
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I think spaying and bodywork costs have suffered from the insurance market. Their rates are therefore ridiculously high for the level of time and skill involved. I am not an expert and, as a self employed person i know how the general public dont understand the price of a good job, but £12,000 seems a lot for a small car. You can get a skilled joiner for £40 per hour. On that basis and assuming £1000 for the paint (reasonable?) then that equates to a solid 8 hours a day for about 7 weeks! Also unfortunately price either way doesnt equate to quality. Most garages I know and love haven't a clue how to set an hourly rate, and to be honest usually quote on the back of a fag packet!
No one generally asks to break down the price into rate hours etc. often when you do this they are hard pressed to explain their reasoning.
Bob
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Roger funny you should mention the fan as dynamo effect. I have a revotec fan operated via a relay. However, I have wired up a warning light to come on when the fan is running as well as an override switch so I can turn it on before the temp sensor does so. At high speeds, when the engine is not warm, the warning light glows (not as brightly as when the fan is actually on). The only explanation I can think of is that the fan turns at high speed an generates a current!! I thought I was going mad...perhaps not!
Bob
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I am often hoodwinked into buying a magazine because there is a triumph article in it. However, generally such articles are superficial, repeat common myths or simply get things wrong. I would never use them as a basis for buying or restoring a TR - unless you only needed to be able to tell a TR3 from a TR6! Best to simply surf this forum rather rely on journalistic copy.
I am an accountant by trade and, like anyone else, generally believe what I read in the papers. Its only at budget time or when there is an article about tax policy etc written by a journalist do you realise that quite a lot of what we read in the papers is likely to be a bunch of badly researched, over simplified, misinformed half truths!
Just re read my post - such spiteful ill informed vitriol from one so young. Maybe I should have a go at this journalism lark!
Oh yeah, and by the way (warming to his subject) what's wrong with TR7s and TR8s!
Bob
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Thanks for the replies. I have never replaced a speedo cable but when mine broke I recall being told you could not get to it on an overdrive box unless you removed the cover. The gearbox was coming out anyway for a recon so it didnt really matter as the cable was replaced at that point. Haven't looked under the car to check myself though so will do so now.
Regards
Bob
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I'm looking to install a Brantz trip meter in my TR4 and from looking at other posts, I think for me the speedo cable option is the best bet. Looking at the instructions on the Brantz website, it would seem you need to remove the inner cable to cut into the outer and thread the sensor. If I am to remove the inner cable and put it back I presumably need to take out the gearbox tunnel etc. However, the earlier posts there is no mention of this. Can it be done without removing the inner cable? Any other tips, comments would be welcome.
Regards
Bob
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With the greatest respect to Mr Williams, Stuart, I tend to agree!
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Hello all
I'm in the process of re carpeting my TR4. I've got the carpets from TR Shop and I am using the sound deadening material recommended by Stuart. I bought the fitting kit from TR Shop and it has the various press stud fittings, associated rivets etc. I intend to use 6 press studs in the passenger and driver footwell carpets (as per Stuart's recommendation) but I note in the Roger William's restoring book it says you need to use washers with the rivets to prevent them pulling though in use. No washers provided with the kit from TR Shop. May be fun actually getting washers on the underside of the rivet given their locations!
Are these really necessary?
Is Mr Williams more energetic in the use of his TR carpeting than most?!
Any advice gratefully received.
Regards
Bob
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They look like the same.
Cheers
Bob
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I bought a couple of these to illuminate a clock and compass on my dash from ebay. However they dont come with bulbs. Does anyone know what type of bulb they take and/or where i could get some from?
Regards
Bob
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Well I suppose the Lancastrian's preferred mode of transport doesn't rust - clogs are after all made of wood..ho..ho!!
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Actually i have the dubious morals of the late 50 s motor trade (clearly things have changed since) to thank for an interest in TRs and triumphs generally
My dad as a young man wanted to buy a sports car and a famous yorkshire car dealer in harrogate/leeds were selling an XK120. Quite old by then it looked pretty good and he was being shown it by an enthusiastic salesman. Anyway, to test the integrity of the shiny paint job he discretely pressed against one suspect panel with a coin. To his surprise it gave way and produced a biggish hole. The salesman was none to pleased, and being young and bashful in those days he apologised and made a swift exit rather than point out that they were trying to flog him a hastily tarted up potential death trap!
Anyway, shortly after he purchased a1955 TR2 in BRG from a private seller in Knaresborough and then followed a succession triumphs culminating in a white 74 stag that he kept for just short of 40 years. Stories of that tr2 made me a fan from an early age.
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Well, it looks like I'm going to have to give in and let the motor trade occupy the moral high ground!! I think i may have slipped into a parallel universe.....!
Bob
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Quite right, McMuttley - I am a big fan of caveat emptor. We all need to go into transactions with our eyes open. However, my impression from the thread so far was that many dealers are sadly misunderstood and as pure as the driven snow - so perhaps you were just unlucky to find a wolf amongst so many sheep!!?
Bob
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I think harsh words for a lot of operatives in the motor trade are not that unfair. I would argue it has more than its fair share of cowboys and mountebanks (and if I recall correctly, some on those who have stepped in to support the trade have in the past made some pretty strong general criticisms in the past). I agree that there are some genuine, shining exceptions to the rule, but if any trade deserves general unthinking pillory, its the motor trade in all its forms! You only have to look on other threads about nightmare restoration bodgers for comments about low standards being not uncommon.
Clearly Marko has a great reputation and took exception (and has courteously explained why) to the generalisation but it seems he isn't driven purely by profit, others often are. When they are driven by profit, the words of Mr Alfred Doolittle are apposite - "morals governor? Can't afford them."
I know people will often say that you can't run a successful business by simply ripping people off. I am an accountant who acts for lots of different business and has respect for anyone who sets one up. However, one thing I have come to realise is that there are a lot of people who have made a lot of money very quickly by simply ripping people off- be it staff, customers, creditors or all three.
Well, tin hat time perhaps, but I felt a bit sorry for the OP and the righteous indignation that followed!
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Thanks for the swift responses - particularly Snowy's helpful hints on how to rectify the issue.
Regards
Bob
fm radio with usb input and 12v output socket
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I've got a Retro sound unit. Ok to fit but I'm not that impressed. A bit fiddly to use and v expensive compared to other offerings. I find the tuner is a bit **** - regardless of aerial used. No option to turn it to mono with FM reception so really infuriating hiss can't be lessened- forced to listen to 5 Live on MW instead!
Bob