PaulAA
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Posts posted by PaulAA
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That's it, Niall. Both wheels are intended to be get-me-home spares for Alec and for me, so even the 'round' bit is optional.
Paul
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Hi Walt
Good thinking and a good stopgap. The season is nearly over here, so I may not be in much danger until the spring... depends what Mother Nature throws at us this winter!
Cheers
Paul
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Thanks for the thoughts, chaps.
Mick, illegal here as well and, in any case, not a risk I'd take. I'm lucky that I've not needed it so far. Whilst I search for something suitable here, I'll equip myself with some temporary puncture repair foam.
I've now measured the wheel more accurately and the offset is approximately +15mm in comparison to a TR6 wheel, so it would fit the rear, but on the front it would foul the upper wishbone. There are no stamps on it, but since it is the spitting image of this:
... I'm assuming that it's from a TR3
Cheers
Paul
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An odd thing... I'm in the fortunate position of not having yet needed to use the spare, but whilst cleaning out the boot recently, I noticed that the spare wheel is not the same as the four road wheels - different offset and three spikes on the dish.
The tyre is an old 185/15, so it can't be a PO's idea of a space-saver... any ideas what the origin might be? I haven't checked whether the offset will cause a collision on the front wheels yet.
Paul
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Is the TDC mark on the pulley true ?
Peter
Peter
Key question... and I can't vouch for the accuracy of the TDC mark. I'm sure that if I ask the mechanic who rebuilt the engine two years ago, it will be a resounding 'yes', but I suppose that my only opportunity for confirmation is the next time I have reason to fetch the head off.
Compression ratio is approx. 9.5, so yes, the TR250 profile is probably the one I should aim for.
Whether relevant or not, there is also a persistent single 'miss' at 1,900rpm during acceleration. The dizzy cover is good and clean, as are all connections - no cracks or leaks. The dizzy itself was stripped and cleaned along with the engine two years ago. Wear, maybe?
Paul
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Paul,
Whats the problem with the present needles? perhaps we can find a solution. The last slide shows the huge tolerance on mixtures. If the plugs look good it might be more productive and cheaper to focus on the sparks. A PI advance curve wont get the best out of a conversion to carbs.
Peter
Peter
No problem as such, but, other than the mpg average, I don't have a point of reference to determine whether the choice of needles is optimal. Plugs are a reasonable shade of pale grey, no sign of deterioration after about 3,000km.
Engine is stock US model, except for the skimmed head and wishbone cam. Dizzy is original US D22 with advance only, but disconnected.
Appreciable acceleration is in a relatively narrow band (1,800 to 3,500rpm). Power peters out by 4,000rpm, but the engine can be persuaded to spin up to 5,000. More not. Having established (and now re-checked) CO at tickover at around 5%, with timing at 12deg BTDC, I'm assuming that the principal variable is fuel metering. It may be that the BDM is the optimal profile (which Chris Witor has suggested is more likely to be for the Dolly Sprint), but I was wondering what others' experience of other needle profiles is.
Paul
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Thanks, Peter
I promise that I read and digested the presentation (I think I asked you for clarification on a couple of points at the time).
Regrettably, ambition far outstrips both my (limited) skill and my resource and............. I was trying to short-cut by peer group comparison. Caught red-handed!
Paul
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Hi Bruce
Thanks - that's interesting.
Both BAE and BAM are on my list, but my challenge at the outset of this process is the fact that (i) needles are 20 quid a pop each and (ii) I can't find a rolling road in this neck of the woods, which comes equipped with anything other than a
spotty oikyoung mechanic who has never heard of carburettors.Paul
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Hi Darren
It's my neighbour's gauge: probably time to buy my own...
Thanks for the feedback.
Cheers
Paul
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I know that that this has been discussed repeatedly before, but, rather than asking for advice, I'm keen to find out what people who are running SU HS6s think of their needle choice.
I am not sure about mine. I have a US head, skimmed to CR of approx 9.5 and mated to a Wishbone 518v2 cam. Everything else on the engine is standard, with consistent cylinder pressure of roughly 120psi wet across all six cyls. I have twin HS6s, which are regularly adjusted with gas analysis to a CO output of 5%, but I would like to see if different needles will make a difference to power delivery and efficiency.
I have BDM needles. What are you SU folk out there running and what do you think of your choice?
Paul
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Equally jealous, Ben. Well done.
In the second film, did none of the Mercedes drivers in the invasion convoy (3.08 to 3.40) give you a cheery wave? Miserable buggers...
Paul
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Looking very handsome. As does the price:
http://www.pyritz-classics.de/fahrzeuge/triumph-tr3-italia-2000/
Paul
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Hi Paul, I have a 75 TR6 where I have taken off all the EGR emmissions stuff and the carbon canister, from your comments in #6 I will therefore need to blank off the expansion pipe which comes out of the top of the tank and fit a ventilated filler cap then.
Your comments would be appreciated
Rex
Hi Rex
There are undoubtedly wiser people than me to advise you, but the emission control-era US cars had a sealed filler cap and expansion was channelled to breathe through the carbon cannister. If you remove the cannister altogether, you will need to leave the pipe uncapped, so that the tank has can accommodate expansion/contraction. Alternatively, you could change the filler cap to a non-sealed UK version or, as a further alternative, you could fit a small motorbike in-line carbon cannister, concealed on the chassis under the body. When I actually get around to replacing the original cannister (to make way for a direct air feed for the carbs), this will be my line of approach.
Paul
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Rich
For the 3/4"-16, try this:
http://www.hotmeltparts.eu/en/hotmelt/hydraulic-fittings/group259.aspx
Sixth item down.
Paul
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Hi Dan
You've lost me a bit - why am I going round in circles?
Paul
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Hi Rich
The EGR shaft plug came with the re-worked head I bought a couple of years ago, but the manifold plug I bought separately, from Rimmers if I remember correctly.
You will need a 3/4-16 to plug the EGR shaft hole in the head and a 1/2" NPT plug for the manifold.
Cheers
Paul
Edit: remember to blank off the top inlet in the carbon cannister, where the feed from the banjo on the vacuum would have gone. Of all the emissions kit, you would be best off leaving the carbon cannister in place - the fuel filler cap is unventilated on later US cars and the expansion pipe is fed forward to operate through the carbon cannister.
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where I have 'missing 3' and would prefer not to have an old screw, is there a nice plug I can use?
Better solution is to remove the intermediate outlet and use part no. ADU1402 to connect the servo vacuum pipe to the manifold.
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Rich
There will be others along shortly, who can offer considerably more insight than me, particularly the size/thread of the blanking caps.
The kit you are concerned about is the EGR, part of the later emission control installation. Only necessary if you want to be period correct. You can safely remove it all.
Your Missing 1 is a rigid connection to the manifold. Cap the hole in the manifold.
Missing 2 is a return pipe to the rocker cover relief pipe - the junction in the main oil return pipe has been removed already
Missing 3 is a vacuum connection to the carbon cannister. You can remove the intermediate double take-off altogether and connect the brake servo directly to the vacuum take-off on the manifold.
When you removed the domed EGR itself, you will need to blank off the hole in the head.
Tidied version looks like this:
Paul
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some of those 70's BL cars we top draw classic designs
Keith
Hmmm... Morris Marina, Austin Allegro, Austin 18/22, Austin Maxi... I agree that the SD1 and the Range Rover were groundbreakers, Keith, but I'll wager that the mongrels outweighed the thoroughbreds. Plenty of good designs seemed destined never to see the light of day. I harbour a particular resentment for the Maxi my father had and it's outstandingly awful gearchange.
I would also contend that there is more to the campaign pursued by Red Robbo and his ilk. German industry has been heavily unionised throughout the post-war period and worker protection in Japanese industry is unquestionable, but the unions in the UK seemed determined to do grievous damage to their employers - and succeeded. Both Germany and Japan engage workers at all levels in production committees, giving them both authority and responsibility, which British industry traditionally shied away from. With the benefit of hindsight, antagonism and resentment on both sides of the divide seem to have undermined the capacity to maintain Britain's lead in supply and innovation.
As a naive teenager in the late 70s, it used to amuse me that my parents' generation and older would harbour vehement resentment towards the Japanese and "what they did to us during the war", yet unfailingly bought Japanese cars.
Paul
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After putting the cat among the pigeons regarding oil changes, can I ask what people think about how much fuel to leave in tanks before storage? Standard fuel tank but almost empty, half full or full or anything else?
Cheers.
You haven't put the cat among the pigeons. You asked a question and then criticised the answer you received from an experienced engineer. I'm probably missing something here, but if, as you say, you wanted Mick's advice, why didn't you just PM him?
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mineral oil would certainly do that damage and that may be what was in the DOT 5.1 container.
Hi Roger
Good point well made - too easy to take simple things at face value. I assumed that if he was stupid enough to mix two fluid types, he would also be stupid enough to leave the incriminating evidence in the car, but there is no guarantee that the fluid with which he topped the system up came from the DOT 5.1 container.
Live & learn... to be suspicious.
Paul
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In this case mixing DOT3/4/5 with DOT5 will get you home with no problem. After that who knows.
Roger
Roger, Alan
Mixing DOT 4 and 5 may well get you home, but the consequences are grotesque. My car's PO replaced the brake fluid with DOT 5 silicone, a fact explained to the (different) withered man in a white coat who replaced my failed brake master cylinder a while ago. About two weeks after I collected the car, I discovered puddles of fluid under the rear wheels and realised that the almost empty fluid container he had had left in the boot was DOT 5.1 - mineral fluid.
The mix had corrupted the rear drum piston seals, contaminated the new shoes and coated the drums in a silicone/mineral fluid mix, which took several days of soap scrubbing to clean up. It also scuppered the new master cylinder. Fortunately, it hadn't reached the front brake calipers, but the pipes had to be steam-flushed and compressed air dried and, because this was only certain of removing the mineral fluid, I was committed to replenishing with silicone.
Paul
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Hi Roger
You need to get you car(s) done over here.
Last time I had the previous daily driver done before selling it, I took it to the usual place I go to. Same withered man in a white coat, same near-wordless interaction as every year. It was a car I liked very much and one that I lavished occasional attention on and one which I was reluctant to change. Hence it was the fifth year that it had been to the see the little man in the white coat.
But on this occasion, he noticed the rectangular 'quattro' badge on the grille. "Sorry, mate," he says (in Polish - I paraphrase) "we don't have the right rolling road to test four wheel drive vehicles"
"But you've done it every year so far"
"Impossible. Let me see the vehicle document," which was, fortunately, resplendent with impressive stamps from his establishment and his very own signature.
Checkmate. "Come with me" he instructs. Which I did. And, lest he damage his precious equipment with a four wheel drive car, he stamped my document and handed it back to me without further inspection.
99zl for an MOT with a humorous anecdote thrown in for free.
Paul
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Hi Paul are you talking TR6 American Manifold if so they used Stroms with only 2 Carb fixings so you need to do a fair bit of adapting to accept SU Carbs as they are 4 stud Mounting and are slightly bigger spaced,you need to slot the Mounting Holes on the SU Carb Bodies.
To me the 2.5 Manifold is the proper one to use,I also think the Flow is so much better than the American one but I ain't got any figures to back that up only if they were the same why didn't Triumph use the American one with the Stromberg or with an adaptor plate for the 1"3/4 SU and don't forget the 2.5 Manifold and 1"3/4 SUs were only used specifically on the 2.5s for good reasons me thinks.
Are the American Manifolds 1"1/2 if so that Manifold would be restrictive as the 2.5s is one is 1"3/4.
Hi Niall
Yes, the CF manifold. It's a minor detail, but the swap from Strombergs to SUs on mine was straightforward and didn't need much adaptation.
I'm running the HS6s with a head skimmed to 9:1, Wishbone 518 cam, BDM needles, yellow springs and no vacuum connection (I tried fitting a converter to the retard capsule on the dizzy and it didn't work. Then it broke). I've not RR'ed it, so no figures, but it has considerably more poke than it did when stock, but it runs out of breath at 4k rpm. Received wisdom is that there is a constriction in the manifold airways to cyl 2 & 5, so I'm wondering if the 2500S manifold solves that problem.
Apologies to the OP for digressing!
Paul
WANTED . . . TR6 STEEL WHEELS x2
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Peter
That's marvellous - thank you very much. I'll email you in the morning to make arrangements and a contribution as Alec has proposed.
Cheers
Paul