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Posts posted by w147ik
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Hi Ragtag,
the booster is from a 87 Corolla/Tazz which I bought from a scrapyard for about 15£.
In the picture attached you can see a number on it, which might be the part number.
You have to elongate the 4 holes in the firewall and pedal box towards the center as the PCD is slightly smaller. The aluminum spacer needs to machined back about 3 to 5mm, the bolts on the booster are just a bit shorter then the ones on the original booster and you want to make sure you have enough threads engaged.
The fork on the booster needs to be shortened to the absolute possible minimum or the break pedal will stand up too high and you would touch it with the cranked shaft of the accelerator at about half throttle.
There is a long quite scientific article about the use of Toyota 4 pot calipers on the internet which proofs that the brake increase is minimal.
I recommend investing in a set of EBC Green Stuff pads and you will have an instant improvement when they are bedded in properly.
But thats another topic.
Cheers
Heinrich
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Hi Tony,
Thanks for the input.
Please let us have some pictures of your setup, in particular the linkage. The ones I have seen so far don't look neat to me.
Heinrich
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Peter,
no need to apologize. I´m grateful for any meaningful input and your's is such one.
I did not like the idea of the airbox being only connected by rubber hoses and I cannot use the original below the airbox support bracket since one previous owner replaced the cast iron exhaust manifold by a performance type tubular one.
Honestly, I have no idea of the forces unleashed in case something goes badly wrong and I´m not sure if my solution - two long shank bolts, screwing into the throttle bodies - can hold out. But I´m sure the airbox cannot just fly off. I did some research beforehand and there are a number of cars around using the same setup, it´s just a question of getting feedback on it.
Cheers
Heinrich
You might observe that the break booster looks odd. Correct, it's from a mid 90's Toyota Corolla. The size is about 30% bigger then the standard TR6 one and just fits the space. Very little adjustments have to be done to fit it and it works with the original TR master brake cylinder. A member from the Cape Town TR center developed the conversion to good success.
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Thanks Peter,
this is also of some concern and I must discuss it with the company who's electronics I use if there is some sort of fail safety.
I use extra mounting points which connect the airbox to the front and rear throttle bodies.
Tried to upload a picture already when I posted my question earlier and failed, but will try again.
Heinrich
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Hi Tony,
I´m in the final stages of replacing the original PI system on my 73 TR6 CR.
I got a set of 2500PI bodies which I use to carry the injectors and a single throttle buy from a BMW 525i on the airbox.
My concern are the original rubber hoses between airbox and throttle bodies. Mine are old but still strong.
Did you experience any problem with collapsing?
Regards
Heinrich, South Africa
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Hi to all of you! Thank you for the interest (and compliments) in the Jabekke Special. Sorry, I did not respond earlier. Have to watch the forum frequently!
I´m too new and not really familiar in uploading, but I invite you to contact me by email: h.koncki@gmail.com for more pictures and stories of the 1 year body-off rebuild and how we casted the tonneau cover and the wheel spats directly on the car.
Pitty, I learned too late of the 60th anniversary event end of May in Belgium. I´m in Europe in June but was unable to change my arrangements to be there in time.
Maybe in 10 years or 15? if I´m still around and if I find a sponsor to ship the car I promise to bring it.
Triumphant greetings
Heinz
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I finished last year a rebuild of a 1955 TR2 and although a short door car I wanted to have a Speed Trim. It became the "Jabekke Special".
The high cost and lack of skill in South Africa made me decide not to make it from aluminum but instead use a glassfiber specialist for the Tonneau cover and the wheel squabs.
To mount the tonneau I remove the lift-the-dot pegs on the scuttle and doors and use SS wood screws, currently with halfround head, but when I find the time I will change them to countersunk and use cupwashers as on TR4-TR6 dashboards.
Does anybody have a idea how many replicas are around?
Cheers
Heinz Koncki, George, South Africa
efi throttle bodies size
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by w147ik
Hi to all addressing my concerns about he rubber hoses between the airbox and the original throttle bodies.
I use a locally produced EFI system, called Spitronics and the integrated rev limiter shuts down either spark or the whole ignition, in case something goes wrong with the air intake . The system also shuts down the fuel pump in case of a crash!
Pretty reassuring.
Not far from us in Knysna is a company manufacturing the Cooper Healey, a Austin Healey 3000 replica based on a modern chassis and suspension and BMW 320i, 325i engines and BMW drivetrain. The guys using exactly the same system and setup. Simple to control via your laptop.
During the engine rebuild we shaved about 4kg off the stock flywheel, pistons conrods and gudgeon pins were matched and balanced in itself and the sets against each other. 5 of the 6 weigh 695 g on is 695,5 g.
Crankshaft, flywheel, crankpulley and clutchplate have been dynamically balanced.
The tired CR cam was replaced by a new stock CP one.
All in all I hope for a very smooth engine, I'm not looking for a race car but a sporty tourer which can surprise some modern cars.