[Wire wheels fitting tips?]

Roger,

 

You ask what could make the spinner undo if handed wrongly!

 

There is a small clearence between hub and adaptor, if there wasn't you'd never get the wheel on or off. The effect of this gap when the wheel is rolling is akin to an epicyclic gear; there is a definite tendancy to tighten one way and loosen the other. Bicycle pedals have left and right hand threads for the same reason.

 

I can offer no explanation for your friend's Morgan being different.

 

HTH

Ian.

[Tie Rod Ends]

A trick I have often used is to temporarily put a couple of thick washers on the stud so the nut can be used to draw the stud into the taper without the nyloc turning the stud. Tighten gently so the stud is firmly in then remove the nut and washers, refit the nut and tighten normally.

Hope this helps

 

Ian.

[Expansion Bottle TR4]

Anybody got a 4a with a working expansion bottle/ rad system ?

I seem to be in a minority here, but mine works fine.

 

Ian.

[TR4A Dynamo]

It might be easier to look fot it by generic name "Lucas C40"

That should be C40-L - a higher output version. Don't fit a C40 unless you adjust or replace the regulator.

BTW, refurbished dynamos are available from most car part shops, Halfords etc.

 

HTH

Ian.

[Overdrive playing up]

I assume I need to remove the plastic transmission tunnel cover to get at the switch on top of the gearbox case. What will I find when I get there? - only have a murky picture in the Haynes manual to go on

Hi Giles, you'll find two switches wired in parallel, one above the 1st/2nd selector rod and one above the 3rd/4th selector. The one you want is 3/4, mounted to the left of the top cover. Expect a loose terminal, or a loose or damaged switch. In an emergency, or for diagnostics, swap the switches and see if you then have o/d in 3rd and top.

 

Good luck

Ian.

[replacing TR4A fanbelt]

The belt will go between the crank extension and the rack if you jack the sump up slightly and use a bit of lubricant on the belt. At the side of the M1 once I used a hand wipe (slightly soapy). Arni's idea sounds really good. Carefull not to burn your hands slackening the rear dynamo bolt - don't ask me how I know this

 

HTH

Ian.

[Brakes]

It's a good idea to check everything. I learnt this once when I bought a Ford Anglia which pulled to the left on braking. Spent best part of a week checking and checking the RH front brake to no avail. In desperation I decided to replace all the front brake shoes and found a 1" spacer behind the left hand wheel! Obviously this is not your problem since a spacer can't just appear, but it shows how faults can be caused by aparantly unrelated things.

 

Good luck

Ian.

[Overdrive playing up]

I'd have a very good look at the switch for 3rd/4th gears. Can you hear the solenoid click if you engage overdrive with the engine not running (ignition ON of course).

 

HTH

Ian.

[sidelight fuse problem]

Dave,

Glad you've found the problem. As you say it's not too difficult if you take a methodical approach.

 

The termination on the bulb end of the wire is a mushroom shaped crimp which I've never seen sold separately. With a bit of care, you can fabricate a reliable connection from a small brass washer and a short length of thin heat-shrink sleeving. Push the bare end of your wire through the hole and splay the strands out, solder in place and use the heat-shrink to cover the melted insulation. Try to get a smooth dome on the solder and it will work well.

The above assumes that the tufnol disc and spring are present and in good order, if not you'll have to do a bit more work.

 

Glad to have been of assistance

 

Ian.

[sidelight fuse problem]

Ian thanks for this. The fuse blew as soon as I turned them off after fitting it.

Regards,

Dave

 

What you need to do is isolate the problem. I now have a wiring diagram in front of me and can be more specific.

 

You have three red wires leaving the fuse carrier. One serves the sidelamps, one the tail and plate lamps and the third goes to the rheostat for the dash lamps. I suggest you disconnect these, replace the fuse and switch on the lights. This checks for problems in the fuse carrier.

 

Reconnect the three wires one at a time, switching on between each until you know which of the three leads to the fault. Now connect the two which are OK and switch on the lights, note which ones aren't working.

 

If the fault is on the wire leading to the sidelamps, disconnect both lamps (red wires inside the inner wing at the front) switch on again and reconnect one at a time as before, when you know which it is, inspect the wire, bulb holder etc for shorts.

 

If the fault is at the rear, disconnect the red wires in the boot and follow a similar procedure to identify the lamp or wiring segment at fault.

 

If it's the instrument lamps causing the problem you need to disconnect all the red/white wires from the rheostat and again follow a similar procedure. The rheostat itself is a candidate for shorts so look at it carefully if an underdash fault is diagnosed.

 

This procedure can be expensive on fuses!! One way of reducing the pile of blown fuses on your floor is to attach two wires and crocodile clips to an old headlamp bulb and use this to bridge the fuse contacts while testing - a bright glow indicates a large current would have blown the fuse, normal sidelamps would cause quite a dim glow - it takes a little experience to tell the difference but can be very useful.

 

If you don't have a wiring diagram I can send you jpegs which are just about readable.

 

If your still stuck, PM me and perhaps I can talk you through it on the phone.

 

Good luck

Ian.

[sidelight fuse problem]

What do you mean by "keeps blowing"? does the fuse blow immediately you switch on the lights or only as you're driving along.

 

If the fuse blows immediately you need to disconnect as many parts of the circuit as possible ie the snap connectors inside the front wings, the snap connector leading to the back of the car (IIRC the loom is in two parts joined near the drivers foot) etc. Then with the lights on, reconnect each in turn until the fuse blows.

 

If it blows when you're driving your best bet is to (stationary, with the lights on) wiggle the wires wherever you can reach them until something happens.

 

If the steam cleaning is the culprit, check for chafing cables everywhere, but mostly where they go into the rear bumper and into the front wings.

 

I doubt if you've disturbed anything changing the speedo cable but have a good look anyway!

 

Good luck

Ian.

 

Help.

My TR4A keeps blowing the 25A fuse that serves the sidelight, dashboard and numberplate light circuit. I realise this is probably a short circuit, but can someone tell me where (and how) to start looking.

 

A few bits of info:- car was recently steam cleaned. The only thing I've recently done behind the dash is connect a new speedo cable. Lights were all working fine when last used.

 

Anyone help?

 

Many thanks,

 

Dave

[Thinking of buying a TR3A]

Hi David,

 

Thanks for not only answering the question I asked, but also the one I meant to ask

 

I would like to look at your car and will send you a PM.

 

Thanks

Ian.

[Thinking of buying a TR3A]

Hello all,

 

After 3 years of owing a TR4A I'm thinking of getting a sidescreen car. I've found a TR3A to look at but would appreciate a bit of advice about where to look for corrosion.

 

Thanks

 

Ian.

[Clutch problems]

Thanks to you all for your help. The pin came out easiy and now I can see the next problem! The threaded boss in the fork is cracked so I guess that's it for this weekend. (David, I've sent you a PM). I'll keep you all posted.

 

Thanks

Ian.

[Clutch problems]

Thanks to you both for your speedy replies.

I'll be out tomorrow with the drill - fingers crossed.

David, I think I have all the parts I need. I'll be in touch if anything breaks getting the pin out. Thanks for the offer.

 

All the best

Ian.

[Clutch problems]

Hello,

 

Having removed the gearbox from my 4A to replace the clutch I have found a couple of extra problems.

 

1. The pin holding the fork to the cross shaft is broken. Is there a way to get the broken bit out without destroying the shaft or the fork (or even both)?

 

2. There is a spring around the cross shaft, between the fork and the bellhousing (left hand side). What is the purpose of this spring? I could see it as an anti-rattle spring if it were outside the bellhousing but inside it seems redundant.

 

3. The spigot bush in the end of the crank is not a tight fit - is this a problem?

 

Cheers

Ian.