jamesStag
-
Content Count
314 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by jamesStag
-
-
Hi Nick,
I can concur with what Roger has advised. My father's Triumph V8 Stag had exactly the same problem of ratchet clutch after a rebuild. It became undriveable when warm. Whilst it's not identical, it has very similar clutch and gearbox. We actually slackened off all the bell housing bolts till just loose. Gently supported the weight of the box, started up the engine and actuated the clutch a few times, nipped up 2 easy bolts to hold. The stopped the motor and bolted all bell housing bolts up again. Clutch was then smooth as butter and has been for the last 8+ years...
Good luck,. cheers J.
-
Hi Nigel,. I presume that was only a 'technical fail' , until you enlightened the chap of the whereabouts of the foot dip-switch!!
Cheers J.
-
Hi, yes this was 'years ago'... The Britpart filter was not selected by my choice. I was surprised to see it sold as a suitable filter from one of the very common 'Triumph' suppliers! Obviously not the case.
Funnily enough after having snags with the refurbished PI pump, once I put in the correct petrol style filter and crucially I lubricated the bottom bearing in the pump, which increased its running speed and pitch it's been humming away happily to itself in the boot with no issues since.....
Cheers, J.
-
Hi All,. Indeed sad news to hear and I echo all the comments above.
I was lucky enough to meet Alec once after exchanging many a message on this forum and I was fortunate to meet Diane on a few occasions, last time was Stratford 2019. They were/are absolute key members of the TR community. I also hope that she is as comfortable as is possible at this time...
Good wishes to all the Pringle clan.
Cheers J.
-
Hi Dave, sorry to hear about your rear end drone issues.... As you may have seen in another recent thread I've just resolved a previously grumbly TR6 diff with a rebuild. As you've swapped your diff completely it does suggest it's something else.
As others have said, do try and swap the tyres/wheels about. My father had a Zafira which had an awful speed related drone at the back. Really intrusive, well we replaced both rear wheel bearings and it remained the same. Heads were scratched. A few months later he had a bad rear puncture, a rear tyre was replaced and noise gone completely!! I'd never believed a tyre could sound so bad, but that one obviously did....!!!
Good luck, cheers, j.
-
Hi Dave,
I also drive a TR6 with standard brakes. As Stuart says they are more than adequate if all is working ok. I can certainly lock up the front wheels on v heavy braking, unsure about the rears. In normal driving I have no confidence issues with the brakes.
So on the face of it something appears to be wrong. That said I believe your car is a fresh restore onto the road. It probably takes 200miles general driving to get all-new brakes bedded in. As others mentioned, if you've done lots of medium to heavy braking quite quickly you may have glazed the pads as they wouldn't have matched their surface to the new discs to provide a good heat sink.
If you're happy with pedal position and you can brake smartly (if not yet lock up the wheels) I'd suggest just getting more miles in and see how they improve...
Hope helps, cheers, J.
-
Hi Roger,
That's interesting I didn't know about different grades of bearing for different jobs. I don't know which part numbers TES fitted, but I trust they have fitted what should be used. From what I've learnt they've been in the transmission game for decades. Like all things only time will tell, but so far so good I'm glad to report.
Cheers, J.
-
Afternoon Mike & All,
Had a reply from TES, they have fitted new Timken brand bearings in the diff.
In terms of setup, he did comment that its key to get the backlash setup correctly to get a quiet diff, and that can take some patience.
In my case I'm quite 'spanners-capable' so took my diff out and dropped it in to Westbury. However TES did say that for those who don't have the facilities or knowledge, they offer a drive-in service and will remove a diff or gearbox for refurb and refit afterwards. Obviously that takes more than a day so the car needs to be left with them.
Cheers for now,
J.
-
Hi Gents,
Thanks for the comments and glad update useful.
Mike C - I don't know off hand what make of bearings they used, but I have an email address for Mark at TES, so I'll ask him.
Cheers, J.
-
Evening All,
Thought I should resurrect this topic (my last comments back in Dec 2015) as this winter I bit-the-bullet and dropped the diff out of my TR6 for inspection. Turned out my rear end vibrations and rumbles were indeed from the diff, even though it had been rebuilt by a company for the previous owner.
Once it was stripped down, whilst the crown-wheel and pinion were in good condition (they should have been as they were replaced at the last rebuild 15k miles ago) none of the bearings were in good condition for re-use. As suspected the side (drive shaft) ball bearings were the noisiest. However the cage carrier bearings were not great, and even though it can been seen that the two pinion bearings were replaced at the last re-build they had small pits/roughness on the surfaces too. Anecdotally (just looking at discolouration) it seems that only the pinion bearings were replaced at the previous rebuild, though can't be sure. Perhaps it was done on a budget.
So in short all 6 bearings were replaced, the diff rebuilt and setup and I'm glad to now report that its lovely and quiet. No rumbles, no vibrations and no whines either. An excellent result all round. The car is now lovely to drive at cruising speeds, I perhaps should have taken the plunge earlier...
As several people seem to have had differential rebuild issues in the past, people may be interested to know that I used TES Transmissions in Westbury, Wilts for the re-build (mainly as they were local to me). Whilst they do all the modern cars, they have a person with classic knowledge too (ask for Mark). He seemed to know quite a bit about Triumph diffs. I was also encouraged by their clean, organised bays in the workshop (a good sign of professionalism to me). To confirm, I have no link to the business other than a happy satisfied customer.
Cheers, J.
-
Hi Alan,
Glad reply of use. I have no firm data but I'd say there's plenty of people still running Mr. lucas' pump. Perhaps 50% or a little under? If you search past posts is plenty of comment on the topic over the years.
Both Bosch or Lucas can work well. Lucas must have good power supply and earth and pressure set right etc, then it can hum away quite reliably. But they can also been quite frustrating too, as I know. They may let you down intermittently if being troublesome but I've always got home, if in stages...
Bosch also needs wiring upgrade and in particular clean filters as they don't suck well. Again they can run trouble free for years, though can howl in complaint of lack of sufficient fuel supply or eventual bearing failure. Trouble is once they do fail, as a sealed pump that's it, time for a new one.
Whereas Mr Lucas can be stripped, rebuilt and carry on again. It's horses for courses.... When you rebuild yours can I suggest putting oil on bottom bearing, thrust shim and non fuel side of the rubber seal (not grease). That's helps to keep it all happy. Any doubts contact Neil (his mobile number can be found by searching on here). Good luck.
Cheers, J.
-
Hi Alan,
I'm surprised no one else has replied before, but for all things Lucas PI related best speak to Neil Ferguson (k raven-smith on here) is at Stafford he does a first class job.
I don't know if he'd send just the thrust washer only, but he'll certainly refurbish your pump and do it properly and for a fraction of the cost compared to all the commercial outfits (KMI, Prestige, etc)
Cheers, J.
-
Evening Chaps,
I have a '69 TR6 and can concur as per elclem, the fast cam spring wire is as per the last pic from Waldi. That is, it runs pretty much vertically down and the loop on the end of the spring 'extension wire' is just clipped onto the spare bolt threads of the engine mounting bolts. That's chassis side, not engine side of the mounting. I would nip out and take a pic from my car, but it's packed in for winter in the garage with various items around and stuff, so not 5 min task to get access with the bonnet up...!
On the face of it, you wouldn't think it would stay there, but the tension of the spring holds it remarkably well. Fast idle cam is brilliant in my view, correctly adjusted (backed off compared to std) my car starts and idles at 1200rpm until 'choke' is no longer required...
Cheers, J.
-
Hi Phil & Richard,. Just FYI, I had same servo non-return valve rattle too. I have the early bayonet style plastic unit. Found a replacement, was exactly the same!! So then found you can buy the metal non-return valve that goes into the inlet manifold of the PI. Once that was fitted too (so two valves in series) all has been quiet ever since.
Hope that helps, cheers, J.
-
I can only reinforce the comments above. When I bought my car it had bullet mirrors. Utterly, completely useless!! Fitted the Tex original style ones and all is good....
Cheers,.J.
-
Hi, just to confirm it can be done. Mine had this exact issue. (clip set at 12 not 3 o'clock). corrected around 3 years ago. If I remember correctly, I did it by disconnecting the steering shaft clamp at the rack. Corrected the clip orientation, took off and realigned the steering wheel reassembled it all.
I seem to recall I had to remove the U-bolt over the rack on the RHS to slide it forward temporarily to get enough room to fully take the shaft clamp off.
Its all fairly logical and indicators cancel a treat now...
Good luck, J.
-
Hi,
Just to do an update from what I've found. I also fitted the BUR6ET, and initially I was happy with them (can't recall if I mentioned this in an earlier post in this thread). However 2 years on I've now had 2 plug failures. In my case cyl 6 has always been a little 'mucky' on plug colour and deposits. That cyl developed a mis-fire on a couple of occasions that a plug clean would fix. The next time the plug failed completely. Seems to be shorted out or a failed isolator. Either way only putting in a replacement plug sorted it. Then the other week I had the plug fail in cyl 1. No real reason i could see, a clean didn't fix it but a replacement std plug did. In general my observation is that the gap between isolator and plug outer is much smaller on the BUR6ET, so i feel this can short quite easily.
For general info, apart from cyl 6 my engine is generally setup quite well. Goes well, does 28mpg on a run, so I don't think is unusually mucky with plugs but not compared with another TR6 to know for sure.
Just my views and observations, if they work well for others all well and good. I'll be returning to std plugs.
Cheers J.
-
Hi, sounds like a great job done Kevo. Fingers crossed for trouble free summer motoring now...!
Cheers J.
-
Hi Kevo, ah ok. Congrats' on the family news (which of course always takes precedence, quite correctly!). Good luck this coming week for the reassembly...
Cheers J.
-
Hi Kevo, how's the gasket rebuild going? Smoothly I hope... Any news? Cheers J.
-
Hi Colin, no probs and sorry you've hunting this rattle about. I'm sure different MUs will be noisier than others. Mine is quiet but there if you listen for it. Obviously all this is subjective. Best way I can think to describe it is if you have engine idling and stand at the drivers (manifolds) side I can't hear anything from the MU. If I walk around to the passenger side, then you can hear the quiet rattle in the background. Of course if you lean down close the the MU, you can hear it clearly.
Hope that gives some anecdotal guidance.
If you have concerns do speak to Neil Ferguson, as mentioned above. A very knowledgeable and helpful person.
Cheers, J.
-
Hi Kev,
Oh dear I was sorry to read this thread. Have seen your various previous issues with gearbox, diff, etc... I do think you've had a bad run of luck.
I concur with others, definitely something amiss to have 1.5litres water gone. What a pain!!
Not been able to review pics in detail (as just on phone), but anecdotely it does seem odd that the gasket was too easy to remove. Also, how tight did the headbolts 'feel' when you pulled it apart? I have known some heads become loose (not on TRs) before.
If easy to get head pressure tested while it's off I'd be tempted as no obvious fault has really come to light.
Also,can i please ask... At rebuild 5 years ago did you do a head retorque after a few runs?
Good luck with this next challenge.
Cheers J.
-
Hi Colin, oh dear I hope you've not stripped the whole engine down in search of the rattle....
Yes MUs do make a quiet rattle/tap in operation, as others have said it's the shuttle zipping back and forth dispensing fuel to each injector.
Quite normal in my experience.
Cheers J.
-
Hi Gavin, realise I'm a bit late to comment, but just to add to views already i can confirm that the bullet style mirrors that were on my car when i got it were little more than useless!! A swap to standard style Tex mirrors was a vast improvement. ..
Cheers J.
Inadequate clutch throw
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Tim, I saw this topic and thought ' I probably know what that is...' as I had exactly the same issue around 6 years ago refurbishing all the clutch hydraulics on my '69 TR6. ! I'm glad to see you have resolved it. I also got my MC from Rimmers and fed back to them that my original MC pushrod was ~10mm longer than their new one that was supplied. With pictures. My original pushrod had not been modified. A simple swap over sorted my clutch. They replied to say they would investigate and in due course did reply to say they confirmed the pushrod was not long enough and they'd speak to their suppliers.... Clearly they have now forgotten this again!
Cheers J.