JayeM
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Posts posted by JayeM
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Try these folks Roger - very helpful guys
http://northwestautomotivehydraulics.co.uk/index.html
cheers,
John
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Thanks, guys!
John
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Hello all,
I may be going crazy, (!) but I thought I saw a post from someone recently saying they had a PDF listing EB body numbers to chassis numbers......
Did I ? and can anyone send me a link to the thread if it exists, please?
Currently thinking about a TR3A that's missing it's chassis plate and commission plate, but has it's EB plate and engine numbers, and wondering if the chassis number can be identified from those.
It's a US import and I suspect the title will be on the EB plate number, which could give probs if I try to register it in the UK.
Any thoughts appreciated as always,
John
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FWIW, we have the same problems with the Daimler CD's from Heritage - they won't run on a Windows PC running newer than XP - I've resorted to finding a cheap XP laptop and keeping it in the workshop for running these CD's.......
Cheers,
John
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Thanks for the continuing help, all - it will be Thursday before I can get back to the car, so fuller update to your suggestions then.
Meanwhile, some clearing of your suggested red herrings, I think.......
1/ My AVO cutout has disintegrated inside (the little rocker arm with the contacts has broken up) so the AVO pop could well be coincidence.
2/ The alternator regulator is fried (short circuit both ways)
3/ my DVM misbehaved on some ac volts checks I was doing, so it's now suspect.
4/ the starter isn't running after the engine starts, and there's no current going to it when the engine's running.
5/ one of the new coils isn't labelled, so it is possible it's a ballasted coil instead of the correct 12v one.
So I'm hoping that a checked new 12v coil, new alternator regulator, and a different meter might find the problem has actually been a simple one ( a dead alternator regulator) confused by a lot of coincidental happenings!
We'll see on Thursday. I'll also take on board your sensible suggestions of checking all the feed wiring and changing the ignition switch for a spare.
Thanks again,
John
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Thanks guys - some good thoughts there, I'll get back to you when I've run the checks.
(and Peter, if it does turn out to be perpetual motion, you can do the presentation to "Dragon's Den" !)
John
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I agree with what you're saying, RobH - it doesn't seem to make sense, hence the cry for help!
In answer to some of your questions;
a/ the battery turns the engine over normally (the car has a high-torque starter fitted so it doesn't have to work hard)
b/ I've been taking readings across the battery and between the coil feed terminal to earth.
c/ single 12v battery only
d/ earths are all connected via chassis, primary earth is to a bellhousing bolt. Earth continuity checks good throughout the engine bay.
e/ the coil(s!) are 12v 3ohm and no ballast resistor is fitted.
This car was wired up by me and is close to identical to the wiring on my own car which doesn't show these symptoms. Also, it was running fine for 2500 miles, then abruptly stopped with an ignition fault. From that point on these weird symptoms have been showing.
Take the point on high impedance DVM, but don't understand why my AVO cutout would trip if it was a red herring, and my plug-in voltmeter works perfectly on other cars, including mine, but I'm happy to try again with another moving-coil meter when I can lay my hands on one.
I'll be very happy if it is just a meter effect - I just don't want to risk the car's electrics until I'm sure!
Thanks for your help - let me know if these answers suggest anything to you.
Cheers,
John
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Thanks guys,
trying a(nother) new battery tomorrow!
(Everything on this car is less than 2500 miles old!)
John
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I don't normally get flummoxed by an electrical problem, but this one's got me stumped!
I've been helping diagnose ignition problems on a friend's SP, which has led to changing every single item on the ignition except the battery.
The car now starts and runs fine in standard setup - points, coil etc,all electronic modules removed, BUT the charging voltage is ridiculously high (30v+ at one point).
Assuming we simply had a blown alternator regulator, we changed the alternator for a brand new one, only to find exactly the same symptoms!
Thinking a bit deeper, I thought there might be an internal connection between the LT and HT windings in the coil, allowing some direct high volts back into the LT wiring. We changed the coil for a new one, and the symptoms stayed the same!
Now deciding we may have just been unlucky with the new alternator, we disconnected the alternator and fan belt, to just run the car from the battery.
Now the WEIRD bit - the symptoms still stayed the same!
No electrical generator of any kind in circuit, and the battery volts rising above 15V!
Even with a simple piece of wire bypassing all the car wiring loom and connecting the coil to the battery direct produced the same effect!
Now doubting my meter (a mid-price DVM) I plugged my "quick check" gizmo with LED readout into the cigar lighter - engine off it read about 12.7V, immediately the engine starts it overranges!
I tried the same thing with my AVO8, and it promptly blew the cutout on the 30V range!
Also, when the engine is stopped, the battery volts will continue to read about 16V for some time before coming back to 13v or so.
All my meters work as expected on other cars, so far as I can tell all earths etc are good on the car, and the effect seems to be independent of ignition hookup, contactless or contact ignition, coil used etc. The only thought I'm left with is that this is some kind of RF pickup that needs a snubber to be fitted to the coil. (My DVM does behave oddly if the leads aren't connected around this engine bay.)
The real problem is that the car is "frying" coils, and I'm really concerned that it will overvolt lamp bulbs/wiper motor/fuel pump, but I'M STUMPED!
Have I missed something? Has anyone any ideas for something I can check/try?
All help from Forumites is always appreciated, but this time I could REALLY do with some!Cheers,
John
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Interesting, Ian - I'm not very "up" on 4A's and newer, so didn't appreciate that. The way the SP inner pivots is mounted, using a cast piece for the pivot pin which then bolts flat to the chassis bracket means it's rare to hear of a breakage on an SP, but there's obviously huge stresses there and we often find stress cracks in the chassis there rather than the brackets. The two designs obviously feed the stresses into the chassis in different ways, so create different problems. I guess the answer is not "better" just "different"!
John
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I think you're right, Menno - the front suspension is another good example, the SP250 has removable brackets which bolt to the chassis for the lower inner wishbone pivots, which makes setting the camber simple and removing the wisbones, spring pan, spring etc very easy, and we don't have the worries of that pivot pin welded to the chassis brackets!
John
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Interestingly, on our Daimler SP250's (which are very similar chassis to TR2/3) the bumper material was moulded onto the check straps rather than plain straps with bumpers on the axle. this pic (taken to show a new fuel pump location) shows the check strap.
Sadly, if the rubber bumper disintegrates we're finding it difficult to find someone to bond in new material, so we're having to "resort" to the TR plain straps and bumper on the axle.
Incidentally,Les, bottoming won't happen so much with a sudden pothole/speedbump-type bump but rather with a high-speed longer dip in the road - the bottom of Paddock Bend at Brands, for example!
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Hi Snowy,
I've used these guys for recore and ally replacement rads, and found them very good, as you'd expect (but maybe not the cheapest)..
http://www.serckservicesmotorsport.co.uk/contact-us-2266.html
Otherwise try ringing the TRShop in Chiswick and see who they use........
John
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You're welcome, Chris - look forward to hearing where you fit the new filter.
regards,
John
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Bill,
FWIW, I've just looked at Bill P's "Original TR" book, and it seems to suggest that if the control box has push-on connectors it would have been fitted vertically like Rodbr's, which might explain why your wires are all bunched together under it at the moment. The book also suggests the flasher unit should be fitted vertically, but the picture in the book shows it horizontal!
Hope that doesn't just add to the confusion!
John
(ps - sent you a PM as well)
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Chris - I've just noticed their home page says they're on holiday until 14th Feb!
John
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Shouldn't be a problem from Flexolite, Chris, as many of us SP250 owners have bought from them.....
http://www.flexolite.co.uk/item.asp?iID=79
Regards,
John
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Hi Chris,
Flexolite make a spin-on filter conversion specifically for the Dart/V8250, and can supply it as a relocation kit also.
Here's their website:
http://www.flexolite.co.uk/cat.asp?cID=4
Most of us use the spin-on conversion with a short canister filter (Ford Escort around 1981 is a good type) as this clears the 4-branch and cast iron manifolds.
Cheers,
John
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Hi Chris,
give these folks a try if you haven't already......
I've always found them to have reasonable prices & give excellent service.
Cheers,
John
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I've also been very pleased with stuff from these people....
http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/race/coolant-hoses
John
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Yes, that's the form - if you go online to the DVLA site, and look for info sheet INF148 and V355/5 they explain the procedure and info you'll need to get together. Lots of the parts of the form don't apply to our kind of cars - don't worry about anything you don't know the answer to, the DVLA folks will help you.
Remember you'll need the US Title document, your purchase receipt, the document showing all taxes have been paid to Customs, full road insurance certificate (or cover note) , car production record, as well as documents to prove your ID and home address with you when you go to DVLA..
Your UK dealer should be able to keep you right too, if they regularly import cars from the US.
Hope that helps,
John
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Hi
the procedure is quite straightforward, but I'd advise filling in as much of the forms as you can, then taking them to your local DVLA centre and asking for help to complete them.
You don't need an MOT - you'll be given an exemption form to fill out and sign to say the car is pre-1960 when you take your forms.
Take good pics of the car and a closeup of the bulkhead showing the chassis number and other plates with you, and get a Heritage Certificate or a "birth certificate" from Bill Piggot as in the front of TRAction and you shouldn't have any problem if my experience is anything to go by.
I found the DVLA local office very helpful - remember to take your chequebook as you may get your docs approved at your first visit like I did!
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Ummmm, NO, Guy!
When you turn the rack around the steering will work in the opposite sense - you'd have to turn the wheel left to go right and vice versa!
(it would work if you turned it round and fitted it upside down, but that makes the column kinda difficult!)
Cheers,
John
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Hi Guy,
I've been doing some investigations on converting my 3A to R&P, and what I seem to be discovering is that 2 main rack types are used - modified TR7 (by RTR and some Moss and others) and classic Mini (some Moss and others). A few also seem to have used early Escort.
I'm thinking the Mini route is the way I'll go - the LHD TR3A installation will use a RHD Mini rack, which should be easy to source.
I'd guess that if you can identify the rack you've got at present, you just need the "other" hand of rack and the rest of the stuff should transfer over, as from what I've been able to find out the only difference between the RHD and LHD conversions is the steering rack. (Hence some LHD ones are often cheaper because they use an easily sourced RHD steering rack.)
Just my personal findings for what they're worth.......
John
RE Oil for converted Head of TR3A & waterless coolant ?
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Just something else to think about with Waterless - one of our SP250 group had a radiator hose loosen at speed on the A1 on Drive it Day. By the time he noticed, via the temp gauge, many £££'s worth of coolant had disappeared, and he had no option but to fill with water to get home. He's now wondering if it's worth the cost of flushing with the special solution to get rid of the water then refilling with Waterless. An expensive day out!
A few of us run Fernox Alphi 11 in our cooling systems - it's a central heating antifreeze/inhibitor solution safe for all metals and rubbers, and the inhibitors are meant to last much longer than those in conventional antifreeze. Our engines are ali heads on iron blocks, so the inhibitor is essential. Mine has been in about 4 years and all seems well, minimum discoloration of the solution when it's drained to check.
http://www.fernox.com/files/Fernox/Content/PDF/English/Updated%20PDFs/Alphi%2011%205L%20V.001.pdf
We were alerted to this via a Rolls Royce club bulletin about the dangers of organic antifreeze solutions, which makes interesting reading (and may have been quoted on the Forum before now)
http://derekharris.com/pdfs/antifreeze%20in%202009%20v7.pdf
Cheers, John