ctC57212
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Posts posted by ctC57212
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On mt TR3a it's stuck in the housing. Any tips how to get it out in one piece?
regards Bob
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Hi
Would the piping be in the body colour as in this car or would it normally be white?
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According to the original TR3 by Bill Piggott the hood and side screens should match the interior. My TR3a hertage certificate states that the car is signal red with a grey interior and a black hood. I have search the intrenet for a red car with a grey interior but there are no examples. My question is what colour should the side screens be,
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I just bought a Judson S/C to fit my TR4a. It will need a rebuild. Anyone have any experiance? Als I am looking for a good quality scan of the original installation instruction.
regards
Boudewijn
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I went a different route. I bought a 16" fan for about GBP 26 on ebay. ( 16" 80W Radiator Fan Universal 12v Slimline Lightweight) These have 2 fats and fits exactly between the frame of the radiator. The fan is fix as a push fan with 2 bolts to the cowl and to bolts through the bottom guard.
To controle the fan I used a -50-110°C W1209 Digital thermostat Temperature Control Switch 12V sensor from E-bay. I glued the probe in the bottom ridge of the radator. I set it up to come on at 65C and then drop off a 62 C. After it comes on the temperature will rise to about 70C and then it starts to drop.
At last no more worries when standing in a traffic jam on a hot day.
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I had the original scroll machined. Possibly it's better to buy one of Christian Marx. You can buy directly from him and get the real thing
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I fitted the mad Marx seal to my TR4a. If the car is on a bridge it can be done with out removing the engine from the car. It is even not necessary to remove the crank from de engine. I did it in situe. Remove the fly wheel and sump. Then undo the bolts of the rear seal. Remove the rear bearing cap and then the rear scroll comes out. Fit the seal to the crank.apply glue to the machined rear scroll and the top half rotates in to place.then refit the rear bearing block and the bottom half of the seal. I packed some spaces between the crank rear flange and the seal to press in to place. Let the glue dry. Now the important bit. The bolts of the fly wheel are now too long! They need to be shortened and to not protrude the crank flange. The car is up and running with no leaks
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My TR4A had an overheating issue, What I found that when getting hot it would discharge into the radiator overflow bottle reducing the volume of water in the system.That made the car prone to more overheating. So eventually I fitted an extra expansion tank and piped it into the return of the heater. The extra 1,5 ltr takes over from the header space of the radiator and helps to keep the radiator it self nicely toped up.
Capillary temperature gauge
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I thanks for helping.
I got the housing unbolted without damaging the capaillary. The parecine is a good idea
regards