allan
-
Content Count
59 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by allan
-
-
Generally you can use a very thin wire or similar to cheese cutting wire (high strength but very thin) to remove the screen taking care to not scratch the paintwork. Then rebond the screen using silkaflex windscreen bonding sealer its better than the original seal but can be very messy, you can buy this from most good automotive places and even Rimmers!
Thanks for your reply Simon. I will try your suggestion - perhaps if I heat it with a hairdryer at the same time it may help.
Thanks, Alan.
-
Hi, I need to remove the windscreen on my "77 FHC" due to rust appearing under the frame. I believe that the screen has not been removed since manufacture and I understand they are heat bonded.
Question: does anyone know where the wires are located to allow re-heating the mastic for removal?
Also, when re-fitting, can I use cold mastic rather than the original method?
Thanks all,
Alan.
-
As described in "buy-sell-trade" I am in need of a pair of good doors for my FHC.
Please give me a shout if you have any......
alanramsell@btinternet.com
Thanks, Alan.
-
Thanks Andy,
You are correct, I think, in suggesting it's a pre-SD1 engine so what you say seems logical. I have now got to ponder the best way forward (the options are many!) and try to eradicate the problem. At least I have enough info to give me a clearer understanding of the problem.
Many thanks again, Alan.
-
Hi Andy, thanks for taking the time to reply. I have been away and just looked at the forum.
I think my engine is an older V8 (engine No 34129698F) and with the distributor being a Lucas 35D8
I asume this is confirmed.
The car runs normally until it is "under pressure" up hill in a higher gear where it loses power and "spits" through the carbs (I think it's the carbs anyway) I have a Kenlowe fitted to the front of the radiator.
S&S suggested it is the dizzy causing the problem and to fit a luminition kit.
However, if I fit a luminition kit to this older and perhaps worn distributor, will the kit work properly on it?
Many thanks, Alan.
-
Thanks chaps.
Andy, is there a question of compatability ie: the drive spindle at the bottom of the distributor are different on some engines?
Cinnobar, thanks and......Keep looking....!
Regards, Alan.
-
Hi,
I have an old Lucas 35D8 distributor fitted to my TR7 V8 and I think is is causing the engine to lose power.
I have heared that Mallory duel point can require adjusting frequently and that points need replacing frequently, coupled with the cost I have decided to discount the Mallory distributor.
Electronic ignition such as Luminition would not work due to my distributor being worn.
Buying a new Lucas distributor would be very expensive which leaves the option of getting my existing Lucas overhauled. The problem is that I can't find a company that work on old Lucas 35D8 models.
Does anyone know where I can get my Lucas overhauled or, are there any better ideas out there...?
Thanks as always,
Alan.
PS. Does anyone have a good distributor they would like to sell..?
-
Hi Barry,
That is one nice car. You must be very very pleased with it. Well done and don't forget to take it to some shows and collect the prizes..!
Regards, Alan.
-
Hi Andy,
As always, thanks for your very comprehensive help.
I have still not tackled the carbs but yes, I was thinking of having a go myself. I managed to get hold of a leaflet produced by Burlen the SU people at Salisbury but I kind of got lost half way through reading it..! Your explanation is much more easy to understand and to help I will consider buying and analyser.
I will try this weekend to "sus" it out but not having dealt with carbs before I am not holding my breath.
If you see a glow in the south, obviously it won't Aurora Borealis that you see from Aberdeen, it will be a fire in Hampshire..!
Many thanks, Alan.
PS. No chance of you visiting Ringwood in the near future...? If so , bring your analyser...!
-
Having fitted my reconditioned SU V8 carbs I am making enquiries about balancing them. The car is running fine but I would like to be reassured that it is correct.
One professional company has advised me that a full tune (£200 + VAT) is the only way to do it and it can't be sucessfully achieved any other way.
Does anyone know diffrently? also, does anyone know of a person in the Hants/surrey/ Wilts area that can balance carbs for a fee....?
Regards, Alan.
-
I have just fitted a renovated su carb set-up to my V8 engine. This has taken some time due to various snags and hold ups. I bought the carbs at Stoneleigh from Andrew Turner who is a carb expert and happy to give advice to any "7" owner as he owns a TR7 V8 himself.
Anyway, I completed the job today and "fired her up" .....the sound was heaven! The carbs are polished and zinc coated and really look good. I am now going the take the car to be tuned and rolling road tested.........
I read in David Hardcastle's book that the TR7 is a very underated car. I can only agree with him.
Happy summer motoring to you all.
Alan.
-
Hi Andy,
Are you saying that my current RR breather pipes from the Stromborgs will fit the the new SU's? I am keeping the older rocker covers (Yes, because I like them better as well!) so maybe that is the answer???
I have tried offering up the new manifold and carbs but it's difficult to tell if they will be compatible.
Regards, Alan.
-
Many thanks Mike and John.
I have downloaded John's pictures as a reference point. The only problem I can see is that I have the old type rocker covers fitted (the ones with the curved ends) so I'm not sure if the breather pipes that can be order from Rimmers will fit.
Any suggestions about the older set-up?
Thanks, Alan.
-
I am swapping my Range Rover Strombergs carbs for a set of HIF SU's. The SU's are fitted to an SD1 inlet manifold.
I am having trouble establishing what breather pipes I need to purchase to fit the carbs. The engine (3.5) is an older one, probably 1970's, so it must be pretty straight forward. The carbs I bought were reconditioned and did not come with any pipes or hoses attached.
I have contacted Rimmers, Moss and my local dealer but without any luck.
Can anyone suggest what I need, or where I can find this information?
As always, any help is much appreciated.
Regards, Alan.
-
Thanks Andrew,
I can see the one you describe, it sticks out facing forward at the front of the manifold......am I correct....? !!
Regards, Alan.
-
Hi all,
I'm just about to change from a Range Rover inlet manifold to an SD1 (the SD1 has SU carbs fitted) and notice that the RR manifold has a small triangular plate on top which has a wire terminal fitted....the SD1 has not got this feature. Any idea what it is and, do I need it..!!
Thanks, Alan.
-
Thanks for your advice Ron and Richard. I will secure the books you recommend.
The more I look at the task ahead the more my confidence is flagging. It's reassuring that advice can be gained for this forum.
Thanks again, Alan.
-
I have just been "given" a 1974 TR6. The concept of giving in our society is fast catching up with the Do-Do but is seems a pocket still holds out in my village. A friend of a friend had admired my dedication to Triumph cars since 1990. I live in the heart of our village and he had observed me dilligently working, rain of shine, on my "stable" of cars. What he failed to realise was that much of the work was due to necessity rather than dedication but, of course, us owners know that. Anyway, I did not want to offend the chap who seemed rather keen for me to take the responsibility for ownership of his vehicle. Having a double garage and four TRs is not going to help matters as hard decisions are going to have to be made. Never-the-less I have an in-built "weakness" for TRs and like the wayward husband "I couldn't resist"
Too good to be true? not really.....
The chap lowered his voice when he told me the TR was in "bits"..
Ahh, this is my "get out" clause I thought, I'll make a show of viewing it and tell him it's not worth restoring.
When he led me into his garage I was dumbstruck. The tub was off the chassis and the chassis had been shot blasted, painted and Waxoyled. The tub was in perfect condition and void of rust. The replacement boot lid, bonnet, and rear wings still had the Stanpart stickers on and in the attendant cardboard boxes, many of the parts were new.
Naturally I was thrilled and embarrassed, could I accept this gift? The fellow adamantly declined any payment, his only request being that I allow him to drive it around the village when it was completed.
Now to the point. I have done extensive work on TRs but not a complete rebuild. As can be imagined, boxes full of bits can be daunting and, as I was not party to the de-construction, I'm somewhat uncertain about what goes first.
Is there a comprehensive book that gives nut and bolt guidance to rebuilding a TR6? Has anyone used such a book for this purpose?
As can be imagined, any help will be greatfully received!
Regards, Alan.
-
Thanks chaps.
Andrew, is the vacuum pipe port that is left un-connected blocked off, or left "as is"?
Jim, I'm not totally sure what I've got! Yes, the dizzy still has points which are adjusted from the side externally. The power output is pretty good but it does flatten out at the 3,000 RPM mark. The carb's are Stromberg which I'm told are not very good and I have been advised to change to SU's (other than the very expensive alternatives) I think the Stromberg's must also be the originals.
Regards, Alan.
-
Hi all,
My TR7 V8 engine is from a 1970's Range Rover and as I have not owned it for very long, I am just getting to know what's what. Yesterday, when checking around the distributor, I noticed a pipe missing from the "lower L/H" outlet of the vacuum.
The "upper" pipe is in place and connected. If I fit a pipe to the lower outlet, does anyone know where it connects to?
Also, the performance of the engine is very good but it seems to "level out" at about 3,000 revs....is this normal or could missing pipe be causing this?
Thanks, Alan.
-
Thanks Andy, your info certainly helps in my quest. I was becoming desperate and considering the "universal" type of hose sold in Halfords but I will take a trip to my Range Rover dealership and see what they have to offer....fingers crossed!
-
I am taking my darling to France for a driving holiday (I am also taking the wife) and as a precaution want to change all the water hoses on my TR7 V8. Rimmers do a kit for £58 + postage which I feel is a bit steep. I think that the heater hoses are fairly standard and can be bought from auto factors locally but the top rad hose (L/H side of rad) and bottom rad hose are specific to the TR V8. Does anyone know where they can be bought more cheaply or does another vehicle type fit the V8.
Sorry if this sounds jumbled but it's difficult to describe....!
Thanks, Alan.
-
Thanks Mike,
I have only owned my TR7 V8 for a couple of months and have been busy sorting out the rear axle. With that and other jobs on the car I've just got round to pressures etc.
Your right, I have adjustable shocks on the back (never had them before ) and have been trying various settings to get the "feel" correct. Same applies to the tyre pressures then - ensure a "safe" pressure back and front - then fiddle to get the "feel" right.......
Fingers crossed! Alan.
-
Thanks TR8Coupe, do you have 30psi both back and front?
Alan.... ???
Changing seats...
in TR7/8 Forum
Posted
Hi, I am considering changing my standard TR7 seats for something in leather. I understand that MX-5 sets are a good fit - does anyone have any experience with fitting these to a "7"? If so, do I use the MX-5 runners and bolt through in a similar way as the original seats?
Thanks, Alan.
PS. Any other seats that anyone can recommend?