guzzitrike Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 (edited) I have now discovered that the headache I have is not buying the TR but the fact that the muppet who owned the car before me had removed the air scoop that ducts fresh air from outside the car into the car (i know its a DHC but when it's cold out I like the roof up). Also the reason there is no heat is that there are two bare pipes poking out of the bulkhead with no rubbers attached to the cooling system. Is this some mod I am unaware of? The haynes manual is rubbish as far as what the inside of the engine bay should look like, so can anyone out there point me in the direction of where I can see a good photo of a proper engine bay showing pipework etc and/or what is the best manual to buy/download to get to grips with the wedge properly? And.... I have noticed that the fan guard on top of the radiator is also missing. Someone needs a slap and it's not me. Haynes are good for basics but that is about it these CDs on ebay are they worth it? Ping me an email at guzzitrike @bryansexton.fsnet.co.uk if you know where I can download something. Bryan Edited January 29, 2007 by guzzitrike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 http://www.zen21606.zen.co.uk/tr7info.html gets you the early version of the BL manual for free - thanks to Malcolm Parris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikehardwick Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Bryan Before reconnecting the heater bear in mind the main reason people disconnect them in the first place - leaking core and/or rusted pipes where they enter the core! It,s easier to disconnect the heater on a summer use only car than to strip the dashboard right back to the bulkhead to fix the problem! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Good call Mike. Just what I was thinking. I bet the heater matrix is knackered and that's why the PO disconnected it. Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
guzzitrike Posted January 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Is there an easy way to find out if it is knackered or should it be subjected to the floatation test? - chuck it in a barrel of water and if it sinks replace it! Are they easy to fix or is it a recon job from Rimmers or one of the other specialists? Oh and as an aside shouldn't there be a white/slate wire comming from the distribitor heading in the direction of the tacho? there isn't and my tacho don't work if there should where does it attach? Bryan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beans Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 (edited) If you're lucky you'll find traces off coolant underneath the heater ... There's no rocket science in working on a TR7 ... only the worse job you van have (i.m.h.o.) is working on the heater. You need to remove the entire dash to get at it properly. Not really difficult if you do it by the book, only very much work ... At the point off pulling two dashboards myself to swap main loom Edited January 29, 2007 by Beans Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr7v8 Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 correct with the white/slate wire, wrong on location, it goes to the coil, and strangly the negative side of it, this may of been connected to the positive by mistake. as for the heater the feed comes off the back of the cylinder head, return is almost direct to the water pump, it joins under the manifold at the back of the engine to a steel pipe that has a take off to the inlet manifold and the water pump P23 of rimmers latest catalogue may be useful. if its been bypassed your likely to find about a 10 inch hose at the back of the engine joining the feed and return Fan guard I have a spare, same with the air duct, but it has been bodge painted, but isn't rusty. these helpful to you? i do also have a couple of heater units, condition unknown Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
guzzitrike Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Yep, found the white/slate wire attached to the white/yellow wire on the positive side of the coil. moved to the negitive side and started the engine and tacho now went straight to the 7k end stop and just bounces against the stop as if it is redlining. Is there some sort of resister somewhere in the circuit that may be missing? Bryan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morph Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Bryan, I have got a couple of spare heater matrixes in my garage roof. If you fancy popping down you can have one. Don't know if I've got a radiator guard but I'll have a look. Regards Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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