jemgee Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 OK guys having made a thorough nuisance on the TR6 forum get ready for a new set of questions see ebay item no 220065154488 What's your verdict on it?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Looks like a nice car Mike. I had been watching it and discussing it with another prospective buyer. A rare late colour too (Bordeaux Red). Look forward to seeing it. M. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Thanks Malcolm I had not realised it is a metallic until I got it home last night with an outside floodlight on it. Can I get touch up paint sticks as the boot lid has a couple of scratches on it - also did this paint have a lacquer coat on it when built in 81? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ngtf Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 I would expect a laquer finish on top of the colour. If it is original paint (and it does look pukka) then the specialists like Robsport can provide the correct colour in a spray can as long as you provide the three digit paint code (possibly CCK for Bordeaux Red). You could then spray some into the lid and touch up with fine brush if you prefer. Btw, car looks really nice. Regards Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stevew Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Thanks Malcolm I had not realised it is a metallic until I got it home last night with an outside floodlight on it. Can I get touch up paint sticks as the boot lid has a couple of scratches on it - also did this paint have a lacquer coat on it when built in 81? Easy way to check wether the paint is laquered, is to T Cut it.If it leaves some colour on the rag then it's not laquered. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Thanks guys The photos make the paint look better than it is now in the winter gloom - in fairness the PO said as much. I have had chance to look at it in better daylight today and I think the respray was a non metallic base colour very similar to the original Bordeaux red CCK shade still in the underbonnet area so I am going to get it cleaned with T cut and then consider if I want to go the whole hog with an original colour respray. The more serious problem at the moment is the water leak which was suggested to be the bottom hose connection into the radiator. Having seen some dripping at that point it was a reasonable guess but it now appears to originate under the water pump as the water runs down the face of the block from an 'oval' in the casting nearest the timing case. As the engine area is mucky its time to get it steam cleaned and then see what I am faced with - any informed judgement gratefully received! All the engine exploded views in the manual don't seem to show the critical area. I know I need to get the right antifreeze asap but will need to consider using a leak sealer also - is this a no-no? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saxchappy Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 The more serious problem at the moment is the water leak which was suggested to be the bottom hose connection into the radiator. Having seen some dripping at that point it was a reasonable guess but it now appears to originate under the water pump as the water runs down the face of the block from an 'oval' in the casting nearest the timing case. As the engine area is mucky its time to get it steam cleaned and then see what I am faced with - any informed judgement gratefully received! All the engine exploded views in the manual don't seem to show the critical area. I know I need to get the right antifreeze asap but will need to consider using a leak sealer also - is this a no-no? I think I'm right in saying that the leak is coming from the point where the water pump mates with the cylinder block. The pump is worn so that water can get through the pump mechanism and escape from that oval aperture you have spotted. You probably need a new/recon pump or a recon kit for the pump. A manual for the removal of and (especially) refitting of the pump would be a wise investment if you don't already have one. Welcome to the world of the wedge - and good luck Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted January 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 Thanks Kevin That sounds hopeful and I should have a steam cleaned engine later today. I was mentally preparing myself for a worst case scenario of warped or cracked head etc! I downloaded the 76 Manual off Malcolm's site so I'll have a good look at it. There are quite a fe CD manuals on Ebay for buttons so if there is a later edition I'll get one of those as well. I will get a new pump on order as the leak sealer is only a temporary measure. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saxchappy Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 Thanks Kevin That sounds hopeful and I should have a steam cleaned engine later today. I was mentally preparing myself for a worst case scenario of warped or cracked head etc! I downloaded the 76 Manual off Malcolm's site so I'll have a good look at it. There are quite a fe CD manuals on Ebay for buttons so if there is a later edition I'll get one of those as well. I will get a new pump on order as the leak sealer is only a temporary measure. Cheers One of the great things about wedges is thay they never cease to surprise you in the number of ways they can go wrong! (see my thread a few down or checkout www.freewebs.com/saxchappy for my personal experience at the hands of Zen Wedgism) So I wouldn't necessarily discount a warped head - just move it further down the likelehood list a notch or two . Good luck with the job - whatever it turns out to be. I'm about to attempt a brake servo exchange now - a job at the end (hopefully!) of a process made a heck of a lot easier as a result of support and advice from folk on this forum. cheers Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ngtf Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 If it's a manual on cd that you require just pm me your home address and I will cut one and send it to you. I have the full BL workshop manual in pdf format complete with pdf reader. As always on this forum, you only have to ask! Your water problem definately sounds like water pump to me as well. Cheers Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted January 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 If it's a manual on cd that you require just pm me your home address and I will cut one and send it to you. I have the full BL workshop manual in pdf format complete with pdf reader. As always on this forum, you only have to ask! Your water problem definately sounds like water pump to me as well. Cheers Gary Gary Thank you - I will PM my address. It does look like its the water pump but I was quite surprised at its complexity and price compared to one I replaced on my 6!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted January 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 I meant to add that I got a can of spray paint in Bordeaux Red (made up in 10 mins) from a local supplier with no difficulty. He confirmed that the car has been resprayed in Bordeaux red metallic but it is a very fine particle size. The metallic effect is more apparent in different lighting conditions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
malcolm Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 Replacing the TR7 water pump is often not an easy job. BL had a special tool for extracting the old pump from the block and it can be a real b*gger to get out. I lost mine a long time ago (sorry) but someone on here probably has one to lend - and if not I know S&S supply a cheap and cheerful subsitute.... Good luck with it, Malcolm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted January 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Hi Malcolm Thanks for that advice - after I had read the manual about taking the carbs and manifold off to get at the pump I was thinking of contacting S&S to find out likely cost of doing the complete job including a carb overhaul and tune up unless anyone knows of other TR7 specialists nearer to Liverpool. I understand the engine was used in Saab 99's and there are a couple of good independant garages locally so I met give them a call as well. PS is there a later manual than the 1978 one on your website? Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikehardwick Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Mike If you're going to farm the job out, I'd recommend S&S every time - they're only 50 miles from Liverpool centre, M62, M60, M66, A56, A682 for a short distance, A681 and you're there. Mike (Another one!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted January 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Great minds After a very helpful chat I have just booked it in. It will be interesting to see Bacup as the last time I was there was in 1973 for a Housing Association new build in South Street - hope its not falling down! Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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